Italy | Krauss-ing The World

Verona

Posted on February 11, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

In fair Verona where we lay our scene. Ah—the city of Romeo & Juliet. The Shakespearean tale drove countless tourists to the city over the centuries, allowing the city to preserve its most charming medieval character and even Roman ruins.

The streets are classic Italy, walls colored with murals and a striking style of architecture vaguely reminiscent of Venice. Just wandering the streets of the old town is a delight, trying local sfaggio pastries and gelato.

The first monument at the entrance to the historic city, past the stylish portal, is the arena. A Roman colosseum partially destroyed, it has been reconstructed and hosts opera performances. If it wasn’t so rainy I would love to see one! I love wandering each and every alley, and though it is connected, many sections are blocked off to restrict movement. They are setting up for an opera performance, and the grand opening for actors to pass through is closed. There is a subterranean level that reminds me of the tunnels of the colosseum in Rome. It is similar in style, just on a smaller scale.

Wandering around the city through the central plaza I pass markets and crowds through a medieval castle. Many cute churches line the way as well. I make my way down to the old castle and cross its characteristic bridge to the other side. I pass the crumbling Franz Joseph Arsenal and return to the historic center to find Juliet’s house.

The balcony is fake, although the medieval house belonging to the De Capello family is very rare. It’s possible they did have a feud with the Montecchio clan, but this story came from a poem. The idea of lovers from rival families dates back to Greek myths, but Verona is selling the story as true. Props and costumes from the Romeo and Juliet movie are inside the house and the Letters to Juliet wall has since been removed.

I continue on to the Duomo, or main cathedral, and cross the bridge to go up to the Roman amphitheater ruins. On top of many steps is a villa/community center and a great view of the sunset. The incoming storm gets me wet, but it is dramatic overlooking all the towers of the city. The lights come on as I quickly find a place to eat along the river, opting for a horse meat stew gnocchi (a tradition since medieval times). It is divine, and the gnocchi hand made. I treat myself to a hotel because I realize I left my backpack and tent inside the arena, which is closed. I book a last minute hotel that is high-tech luxury, which even has a complimentary Corona.

Lago Como

Posted on February 8, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

The deep aqua water shines bright under the hot summer sun. Passing through the channels and curves of Lake Como, I realize this reminds me of the fjords in Norway. It is in fact fjord-like, with its steep mountains jutting out of the water, interesting formations on the peaks, and alps in the distance.

The ferry is the best way to appreciate the lake, watching it from the water as I pass between the small lakeside towns. To start, I skip the long ferry line and I take the bus from Como. Como itself is a charming historic town, formerly responsible for sacking many of the other neighboring towns, which in turn required castles in their defense. The style is classic Italy, cobblestone streets and a large cathedral plaza. I splurge on a huge lasagna while I wait on the ferry, and I end up eating the whole thing. I’ve missed Italy!

The bus is crowded like the line for the ferry, but I have a window seat which helps with the nausea even though I sit backwards. The view is beautiful, and I get to pass through all the coastal towns on the way to Bellagio and see all the different views along what I now realize is the fjord.

Bellagio, like the Vegas hotel, is almost as crowded as Como. The promenade offers a nice view of the lake, however, and I dip my feet at the pier to cool off. The line for the ferry is hectic, and I jump the line to ensure a spot. That’s how I get my seat on the deck, watching the hills and villages from a distance in the sun.

My final stop is Varenna, home of the fortress. This town is popular too, but somehow less crowded, and it maintains all its charm through its single cobblestone street raised above the boardwalk. I walk to the monastery, past a thousand-year-old church, and wade for a bit in the water to cool off before the steep hike up to the castle.

The 12th century castle is so cool and is classic medieval style. The large towers have withstood the invasions of Como, though it has since crumbled and been heavily restored. Not only is it a castle, but also it is a museum! For 5 € I learn about the geology, archeology, and biology of the region. Gaelic artifacts and fossils are on display on different levels of the tower as I climb up the stairs to the top. Beautiful views of the lake await at every level, the best of which is on the terrace. There are rescued birds of prey too, honoring the tradition of falconry.

I walk leisurely down in the cool evening air with a constant view of the lake and setting sun. I find a restaurant along the lakefront for dinner. It is worth waiting in line to be able to watch the sunset as I eat, though the food isn’t amazing and they mess up my order (and deliver it to the wrong table, no less!).

It is magical at night, with lights of the opposing villages reflected on the water. It is a fabulous end to my day on luxurious Lake Como.

Ischia

Posted on July 11, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I set sail along the Napoli coastline.

The boat passes islands and more islands before docking on Ischia.

The town of Ischia has lots of charm. I try some ricotta filled pastries and passion mango and chocolate gelato. I take it through a peaceful park.

The Castle is very picturesque. There are views of the clear Mediterranean waters and the island of Ischia. I particularly like a path lined with Mediterranean vegetation that looks out over the island.

Castello Aragonese
Old Cathedral

There are lots of old churches and the ruins of a cathedral that has been sacked. From Greek to Roman to visigoths, everyone has passed through here.

Underneath there is a crypt where nuns had the morbid practice of allowing their dead sisters to sit upon a throne and decompose. The nuns would come visit and contemplate mortality, sometimes causing them to become ill themselves. The torture museum is the stuff of nightmares.

I visit the hot springs that flow into the sea. I watch the steam rise from the water flowing into the cold Mediterranean. The crystal clear waters mix with the hot water to create a warm bath. In reality, it is much too hot or too cold, with a small area that is just right. The body perceives pain when presented with the contrast, but also the water is too hot as it leaks from cracks in the rock. Just above remains of eggshells indicate people boil eggs here to test the heat. Ideally the waves would mix the waters, but it is too calm today. A woman there mixes it herself and shows me where the best spot is, a ”Goldilocks zone.” After she leaves, I am left alone to watch the sunset from the little nook in the bay. It is interesting to see, but with the abundant algae and inconsistent temperatures I think I prefer a thermal bath over the ocean. I somehow navigate back without my phone, and have a pizza for €3.50, as good as any in Naples!

I visit the hot sands of the fumello, heating the sand to 100C. I see the smoke rise, and the beach is already hot. I die from the heat and find relief in the crystal clear waters, but it is too cold for a dip. I continue to picturesque Sant Angelo, an island connected to the mainland castle. The town here is cute and reminds me of one of the towns on the Greek islands like Santorini.

I follow the steep path back up to return to port where I treat myself to gelato and pastries like amaretto, an cherry and almond liquor mix.

The next day, the hike up to the top of the mountain is unexpectedly on a paved road, but at some moment near the top it transitions to a woodland forest filled with wildflowers and birds chirping. I climb the bare escaparment to the top where there is a restaurant, forcing you to smell the delicious food before reaching the summit.

I make my way up to be greeted by a spectacular view of the other rocky peaks and the dramatic coastline. I continue along to view the other side where I get great views of the summit!

On the way down I walk along through farms and do some birding. There are many interesting rocks and many skinks, even some geckos!

Ischia is very difficult to get around by bus—I wait 45 minutes for the correct one and even still have to transit over to a different bus.

It is nice getting another buffala pizza in Tribunali street and soaking up the Naples atmosphere. There is a Pint of Science event in one of the Palazzos. I would have loved to go, but my Italian listening skills have gotten a lot worse.

I pick up more pastries and soak up the festive atmosphere, stopping to buy a belt, as I head off.

San Gimignano

Posted on February 9, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

The red glow cast by the setting sun illuminates the tuscan hills with a magenta glow, blushing in a way I have not yet seen before. The marbled, snow-white peaks of mountains burn red to match the sparse clouds that float above on this clear winter day. I spend nearly an hour on top of this fortress, watching the sunset over the UNESCO world heritage valley.

San Gimignano is one of the most charming medieval towns I have had the pleasure to visit this year. Heavily restored at the beginning of the 20th century in honor of the 600th death-day of Dante Alighieri, who visited the city as a diplomat and drew inspiration for his Divine Comedy. Now 700 years later, the buildings maintain a medieval look mixed with modern paved roads, making much of the winding alleys and steep side streets accessible.

Entering through the front gate of San Giovanni, I am transported back to the 13th century, when the gate was first built. Aromas of wood burning fill the air, mixing with the butcher and cheese shops lining the Main Street. Following it to the central plaza, I find large towers and an interesting arch monument by the town hall.

I wind my way through the outskirts of the town, embracing a beautiful tuscan vista with mountains as the backdrop. I walk nearly the entire way along the outer wall “passagiata di Mura”, deviating only to walk through a park towards a medieval fountain.

I return to the town center through a church complex and trace the cobblestone streets to the main road. I hike my way up to the fortress only to discover I have seen nearly the whole town, in under two hours!

With little else to do, I head down the greenery of the fortress towards the huge tower. There is a museum of christian art, in the byzantine style which I much prefer for its use of gold and sometimes humorous depictions of common folk. I scale up, up and up through the almost rickety grand tower, up 50 meters to the top with a dangerous, but beautiful 360 degree view of the valley. I see all the iconic landmarks from here, and realize there is one more street to visit!

I go down and make my way through the last of the main streets, ducking into what seems like every last medieval archway and alley tunnel, until I find myself on the outskirts of the town walls again. I snack on some ripe wild strawberries (unrelated to strawberries, but delicious all the same) until I return to the fortress for the sunset.

After enjoying the sunset display, I watch the town illuminate with Christmas lights as I make my way back in time for the bus. I dine on a delicious carbonara crepe, which would ordinarily horrify French and Italians alike, but I quite enjoy. The main plaza is aglow, and the large town is lit up in purple, an interesting choice, and I make a final tour through the main streets as I bid arriverderci to one of my new favorite Tuscan towns.

A layover between buses allows me some time to explore Poggibosi, which was once a central hub of Tuscany. There are a couple blocks with lights strung up, so I kill time and am surprised to see many medieval palaces of Medici and others lining the streets.

Lucca

Posted on February 7, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

Walking along the raised walls of the medieval city, it seems more like a park than fortifications. Runners jog past and children play on the grassy knolls. I look out toward the villas and palaces of Lucca city center, with occasional towers rising upward. The entrance beneath the wall is one of the most grandiose I’ve seen, with a portcullis and murals along the ceiling. I step through to travel to the medieval towers myself.

Most of the towers are attached to churches. I walk past the city center, flea markets selling all sorts of bizarre household collectibles. Only in Italy would you find a stall selling what looks like renaissance statues. The church of San Michele in Foro has a beautiful facade, one of the most intricate I’ve seen and unlike the others. Though quite plain inside, it has nice art exhibitions and some ancient seals.

While seemingly more modern than Sienna, there are many medieval architectural elements that are well preserved, as in Florence.

There used to be hundreds of such towers, but only one remains preserved. The tower of Gugliani, unlike the other towers, has something different: a green roof. With trees sprouting out the top like hair, the symbolic oaks give the structure an other-worldly appearance.

At the top the trees seem quite small, but the city looms large and all the individual buildings can be spotted. The marble cliffs lay beyond; its quite a beautiful place for a picnic lunch.

I descend towards the amphitheater, formerly of Roman origin, that is now a plaza in the same oval shape. With the curvature of the buildings and the cream colors, it does seem like a performance space. Old friends are reunited, others meeting for the first time. While it is easy to hide in the many twisting and turning alleyways of Lucca, coming in and out of these entrances feels like entering a place where all is on display.

I walk along the rim of the walls a bit. 4km around, I am surprised when I start to recognize joggers taking several laps. I venture back through the cloisters of San Frediano to the central touristic route, which I follow past countless palaces and villas, many open to visitors. There are some other interesting city gates, some with large columns and murals, but none impress as much as the first one.

There is a lot of green space around, and the city walls seems like one giant park. I even follow along some canals built in the middle of the streets to return to the city center. The main cathedral has some detailed carvings and columns and has a central tower of its own. However I still have some of the city to see, and the sun is setting fast.

I check out the Ducal palace, currently a government building and museum, and cross to another main city entrance. The streets are getting busier for Saturday night, and I start to get claustrophobic on the main drag. Electric violinists and street performers, along with Christmas caroling, make for a unique atmosphere, though the lights are beautiful.

Milan

Posted on February 4, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I had heard enough rumors to dislike all the high rises and uptight business culture of Milan. However, the big city buildings soon fade as I pass the Porta Nuova into the historic center.
Buildings now feature 18th and 19th century decorative facades and line the streets alongside modern buildings. They blend seamlessly together old and new.

I find the main theater and walk through the impressive gallery to the Duomo, the main cathedral. It is sharper and and well decorated with hundreds of different statues. It is a gothic marvel and the 2nd largest cathedral in the world.

I meander up the street to the castle, which from a distance looks like another ancient cathedral, but up close is impressive in its own right. There are many central courtyards and cloisters beautifully decorated with the Sforzesco family insignia, the Solaris, which covers many buildings throughout the city. It is gorgeous, and I love walking through the castle as if it is a park.

Solaris

Sforzesco castle

There is also a park behind it marked with a big arch.

I walk to the neighborhood next door, the Bern quarter, and find another beautiful palace. This neighborhood belongs to the ancient inhabitants of Milan, dating back to Roman times when it was a field. It then became the Bohemian neighborhood of many artists and poets. Now, it is a pedestrian-friendly, car-free zone, giving it a different vibe than the rest of the city.

I walk down the street through Milan’s chinatown, which looks like typical palaces decorated with Chinese lanterns.

I continue on to my vaccine appointment; the Lombardi government offers vaccines hassle-free to foreigners. I receive my booster in 45 minutes and am off to see the rest of the center.

There is a gorgeous 11th century church and courtyard with columns. I find another, from the 5th century, octagonal and filled with mosaics and frescoes in the back room dating back to its founding. Check out these altars and artifacts originating during the point when Christianity transitioned from a minority religion to obligatory.

The city looks beautiful lit up with night, and I wander through the main boutique shopping streets sponsored by the biggest names in fashion. I decide I like the seamless fusion of old and new, trendy and history, and count myself grateful for this surprise trip to Milan.

Amalfi Coast

Posted on January 31, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

The views climbing up Sorrento are spectacular, with Vesuvius, Capri, and several small islands visible along the feet of the cliffs.

I enjoy the scenic road all the way past Positano to Amalfi. This charming town by the sea has a spectacular church and public fountain. Walking through the corridors and stairwells reminds me of Cinque terre.

I take the bus up to Ravello for the amazing view of the mountains and the valley. I enjoy walking around the Moorish ruins of this town, which seems built in and around them.

I walk down hundreds of stairs back to Amalfi, taking in the view and passing several caves along the valleys. There are underground tunnels connecting back to Amalfi so pedestrians don’t have to walk too long on the winding roads with traffic.

I stop for a delicious buffala sandwich, with the best sun dried tomatoes, and explore the town a bit more before hiking. I shelter from the rain in front of the church while eating my sandwich and someone offers me food, which I quickly refuse and try to explain I don’t need it, but he takes off. I guess 2 1/2 weeks without shaving makes me look homeless.

The bus up to the trailhead in Bromino passes a nice valley, and the sun begins to shine on the turquoise waters. I start the Sentiero degli dei (Path of the Gods) past the main square under the large karst cliffs. The views, once I get to them, are backlit by the sun, but it’s still nice. It’s a beautiful trail, and mostly downhill, but it’s not worthy of the name, “Path of the Gods,” I think. I don’t want to say I’m disappointed because it is beautiful, but I think I was expecting too much. While there are many interesting formations, the mountain view from Ravello seems more dynamic, and there are probably nice trails around there as well as Sorrento.

I pass some goats feeding, lots of climbers, and some caves. I approach more lookouts as the sun goes down, and I race down the stairs to make it to Positano for the sunset along the beach. The clouds make for a reddish glow that illuminates the town and surrounding cliffs. Possibly the most picturesque, Positano is quite small and consists mostly of sprawling homes, hotels, and restaurants along the hillside. It’s hard to have a main center when the town is vertical, but there is a charming Main Street down to the beach, decorated by Christmas lights. They even have lights decorating the mountain!

I thoroughly enjoy my hike through the beautiful landscape and brief visits to the charming towns of the Amalfi coast. The culmination of my trip to the region, the Amalfi coast leaves something to be desired, and I hope to return to this area some day in warmer weather to best enjoy the hikes in other scenic parts of the coastline.

Sorrento

Posted on January 31, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

Sorrento has a lot of festivities, Christmas lights cued to Italian songs around the center, boutique shopping, and some interesting historic buildings. My favorite are the cloisters, which have an art gallery.

I watch the sunset from the nearby balcony; Sorrento has beautiful cliffs jutting out from the city and is surrounded by mountains and sea. I stay in a hotel, to my surprise, and for cheaper than any hostel.

San Francisco Cloister

I eat cookies of amarena mixed with chocolate for breakfast. I tell the cashier I’m American and not Italian and she is taken aback in surprise. Maybe because I come in every morning speaking Italian.

I have the best pizza for dinner.

The perfectly smoked crust is not too chewy, just soft enough. It’s almost liquid at the thinner parts, but nice and thick at the ends. The cheese is high quality and tender. The sauce is subtle, not too sweet or pasta-like. The secret is a little olive oil, which brings out the crust. I haven’t seen it used yet though it’s traditional.

I come down at just the right time as the chef comes and helps me ring up the check. As she struggles with the register, I ask about the oven, which is electric with a brick base, and the unusual shape, which is a bit difficult to make circular because the dough is so soft.

She has a background as a chemist, married an Italian, and so she know a lot about how fiber absorbs water, and continued fermentation of dough that keeps sucking out water. Some pizzas that are made while still fermenting will dehydrate you, which some pizza places do on purpose so you buy their drinks. I think the last pizza I have, Da Michele, the “best in Naples”, does this because I drank over a liter of water after and was still thirsty! It was still good, like what I would expect from a good Italian pizza place in New York, with a classic savory taste.

You want the dough to sit for a while before kneading it, and you don’t want to over-knead it. It is important to add water bit by bit, not all at once, and you have to factor in temperature, humidity, changes for different kinds of flour (such as the old antiche style grinded from the mill). You want more salt or less depending on these conditions, and it is different in Naples because of the water. There are certain UNESCO heritage standards. The recipe is always the same, but it’s just how you make it, the technique, that makes a great pizza! She continues on divulging more secrets, but I don’t have the capacity to absorb it all.

My final night I am treated to an array of samples typical of Sorrento. Home of limoncello, I try some mixed with Buffalo milk that is very sweet. The rum soaked baba cakes in limoncello are like taking a shot with each bite.

A chocolate shop offers cow milk limoncello that is perfect. This is followed by a chocolate covered candied lemon peel, which reminds me of Passover candies, then a chocolate filled biscuit, which I bring home for my family to try. I try a proper limoncello, which was strong but not too bitter, still sweet with lemon juice. There is a lemon candy which you crush it and limoncello spills out over your tongue.

The town villa is celebrating the last night of a festival, displaying artwork from local photographers in the beautiful caves and natural beauty of Sorrento. There are miniature nativity sculptures of terracotta and clay, and lots of old music boxes (Carillons). It is a classy and beautiful way to end my stay on the amalfi coast.

Capri

Posted on January 28, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

The clouds swirl around above my head, rising up the stark limestone cliffs. I look out over the blue Mediterranean towards the Amafli coast with small islands along its coastline . Mount Vesuvius is visible beyond the haze in the background, as is Naples and the surrounding islands.

What is this beautiful island, with its sharp peaks and steep cliffs dropping into the blue Mediterranean water? I am on Capri, legendary since Roman times for its mystique. The clouds definitely add to the atmosphere, but I am lucky to have a respite in the sun while I am at the top of the island. I arrive here by a chairlift, like a ski lift, but I just jump off. It is equipped with a very loose safety bar that doesn’t feel secure at all. I hold onto my belongings and try not to let anything drop below as I cautiously document the exhilarating ride.

A Civil War general from New Orleans fled to Capri and built this bizarre house

The streets of Capri are narrow and twist tightly along the cliffs. The buses are small accordingly, and many motorized carts are used to ferry items around town instead of cars. There are so many cute ones, like futuristic versions of mules.

Culinarily speaking, I am disappointed by the Caprese sandwich I try in its homeland. I have some caprese ravioli that is far too hard. I almost break my teeth on some Caprese tarallini, ordinarily my favorite snacks. Maybe I just tried the wrong places, but I enjoy these variations much more elsewhere. It is also way too overpriced.

Leaving the town of Capri, I hike down along the coast past the rock stacks. I am blown away by their unique shape and arches.

Not-so-natural arches and caves lay further along the path. These paleolithic structures were carved by indigenous groups pre-Greek colonization. The cave in particular feels like a special place, while the arch pales in comparison to those on Malta. Nevertheless, the hike here is one of the most beautiful, and it is mostly on pavement too.

Heading back to the town center, the historic greek and roman streets give way to churches and monasteries. Some nice gardens light up as the sun goes down. I scamper back down to the sea stacks to take in the last of the light before returning to the harbor.

This island, full of famous artists that have come here over the centuries, manages to deliver beyond the glitz and glamor with its natural beauty. It is a wonderful start to my trip along the Amalfi coast.

Pompei

Posted on January 26, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I thought Rome was amazing with its sporadic ruins woven throughout the city. Now imagine my delight to see a whole village!
Though heavily restored, the ash from Vesuvius, towering in the background, preserved much of the infrastructure as well as many amazing frescoes and features. I gasp and catch myself saying “wow” out of awe so many times exploring the frescoes in the houses of the wealthy merchants, featuring mosaic tiles decorating the floors.

The village is huge, accommodating 20,000 people, and I get lost many times. I start out at the amphitheater, find myself in the main theater, and then finally I stumble upon the forum to start the Rick Steves Audio tour (not a sponsor). It is awesome seeing the temple remnants and many bronze statues as well.

The columns still stand, the brick structure remaining with a marble veneer rubbed away (not all columns used expensive marble)

Some casts of bodies found of the 2000 who died during the eruption are on display. It is a bit morbid, but the houses are more of a celebration of their lives.

The deep grooves are from chariot wheels eroding the road over the centuries

Many roads have bumps to cross the street easier when wet. The brothel is even open for a tour, displaying mosaics of different sex positions, perhaps suggestions for different service offerings. Warning: Not safe for work!

Thermopolium is an eating area where dishes would be kept in the holes

The house of mystery is awesome.

So is the last house I tour, the House of Cryptoporticus. I go up two stories through an underground crypt with mosaics of the Iliad. Having Greek art was seen as classy, and most of the frescoes I see around the patios display Greek themes.

***

Nearby Herculaneum, preserved in mud, features what feels like more of the same buildings. Because of the different mechanism of preservation, wood and other organic material is preserved, which can be seen as door and bed frames.

There are some beautiful mosaics, preserved bath houses, and giant villas; Herculaneum was much wealthier than middle-class Pompei. I enjoy being able to visit the whole thing in 4 hours, including a museum with a poorly timed boat passing by Vesuvius at the time of eruption. The hull is intact, and many beautiful jewelry pieces were found aboard, including these snake bangles. I’m impressed by the details on all the jewelry as well.