Nature & wildlife | Krauss-ing The World

Tucson

Posted on 16 Days Ago by krauss-ingtheworld

The mountains of Tucson with their red misshapen peaks greet me as I fly in. I meet my colleagues to carpool over to my hotel, which I soon discover is in the not-so-nice part of downtown.

The conference is off to a great start with some interesting questions on changing the narrative in water messaging, being careful of the dominant narrative of resilience and considering other perspectives around it.

I sneak on a trip to the Tucson desert museum, which is essentially a zoo of native species. It is cool to see squirrels and lizards and birds and butterflies flitting around the gardens. In captivity I am surprised to see a mountain lion, asleep underneath the window. It is strange being so close to a cougar, and I get a glance as the sleeping panther wakes up from a nap.

I love seeing all of the reptiles and aviaries with native birds that allow me to be so intimate with otherwise rare animals. I adore seeing the mountain landscapes of Saguaro national park and all the saguaros and other cacti! There are so many different kinds of cactii in the gardens. My favorite exhibit is the hummingbird house that has five different species buzzing around. I manage to get decent iPhone pictures, lamenting leaving my camera behind on the last-minute excursion.

The opening reception of the conference is nice as the sun sets. There is a networking happy hour, and I meet colleagues from EPA’s delegation, then enjoy free drinks and food as a fantastic band plays. As I Uber to my hotel, my driver informs me of the fentanyl issue plaguing the area and advises me not to walk around at night.

I go for a hike the following morning after hearing from the Office of Water assistant administrator how great it is along the Santa Cruz river and behind the resort. Near me it is barren and full of trash and unhoused folks keeled over in the tunnels, but I see some beautiful birds.

What is amazing is hiking behind the resort into the the canyon. Being surrounded by hills covered in saguaros on all sides is so unique. I see a couple flocks of quail and many other birds. The afternoon sessions all cover communications, and I have to rush back to see the assistant administrator speak over a delicious lunch, otherwise I would stay hiking all day!

There is another happy hour, but we leave early to get Mexican at a local market. They have pumpkin horchata, but they forget to bring out my burrito and it gets cold. It is delicious reheated the next day though!

I carpe the diem and hike again the next day up the hill through the hidden valley trail. The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning, and of course so are the cacti and birds. I spend some time to create videos talking about the plants on site. I see gila woodpeckers and others making nests and eating cactii flowers.

After the conference I head to Tumamoc hill, with signs about the indigenous people who have lived there for thousands of years. It was nice learning about their water use and how they have survived with responsible water; they view water as a relative and honor it as such. I see many birds on the way up to the viewpoint looking over Tucson and at the top I see a hawk! There are many informative signs speaking to the ecology and archeology of the hill. On the way out as my Uber arrives I finally see a roadrunner! I snag a picture or two before I feel pressured to leave.

Rock walls enhanced rainwater flow to grow agave

The downtown area is really hip and vinbrant. The old Pueblo style buildings are covered in some of the most beautiful street art along fun bars and funky restaurants. I stop for some raspberry fudge ice cream as I tour the Spanish colonial architecture of downtown. There is a little market and lots of musicians playing as I make my way over the footpath around the central plaza de armas, a Spanish style plaza.

There is a large cathedral and some historic Freemason buildings around but I head past into Barrio Viejo. Here the adobe buildings are so colorful and full of little gems like a wishing well. There is an event taking place where community members are speaking of the hundreds of migrants killed on the way to Arizona. As the street lights turn on I take a Lyft back to the hotel and get a workout in.

I get up with sunrise and walk along the river, this time until I reach an actual river with the rain from the night before. Supposedly, it is the first time it has rained in over a month! The stream is full of life and many colorful birds. The river is free of trash as collectors pick it up and the vegetation is lush and full of trees. I love how ephemeral everything is; a cactus flower along the hotel is in bloom and the next day is closed. There is a great view of A hill and the surrounding mountain landscapes in the morning sun.

I turn back as I have to catch my flight, but I see vermilion flycatchers, a Harris hawk, and several roadrunners! I am late for the airport as I take my time photographing, and have a hard time pulling myself away from the charismatic species. But I have plenty of time thanks to a quick Uber and TSA pre check to skip the long security line!

Colorado

Posted on March 19 by krauss-ingtheworld

The pronghorn line the hills on the road past unique rock formations. I get excited to photograph my first one, but there are hordes of them, composed of a male with several females.

I think the heart shaped butt is so cute. They are the fastest animal in the western hemisphere and are more closely related to the giraffe than antelope!

We drive into the cloud hiding the mountain views of Breckenridge, but we stop for breakfast in Buena Vista and the weather clears. We go for a drive to a lake with beautiful yellow aspen forests and snow-dusted mountains.

The weather clears and we can see the other mountains further down near a hot spring. The pool is closed, but the mountains and river are beautiful.

As rain clouds return, we take a break to dine on delicious bison ravioli and pumpkin soup.

We walk along the river with all the mountains on display but they are quickly obscured by rain clouds. We hurry back and head home with more spectacular sights along the way.

It is funny to see the mule deer scratch itself with its hoof

***

The impending storm does not look promising. Pikes peak, the closest mountain, is shrouded in clouds. The ranger says it’s only half open, so my friend and I drive out to Garden of the Gods.

These red rock formations are something else. The tall, skinny towers jut out, the sturdiest of the soft Morrison formation that’s been weathered away. Mountain sheep pose stoically on a ridge top. They appear so wise, seemingly staring at the view and chewing cud.

We take off for the paint mine—an area of multi colored clay. Pink, orange and white spatter the quarry, which has been used by indigenous peoples for thousands of years to paint and make pottery and just enjoy. We too enjoy navigating the pink caverns, tracing orange and white walls with multi colored hoodoos to mark the path. It looks fantastic as the sun comes out showing off the bright colors.

We trek back to Denver to see red rock amphitheater, a horseshoe-shaped giant rock formation used as a concert space. They sure are impressive!

Across is dinosaur ridge, where bones and treks are imprinted into the multicolored stone faces. A unique erosion ball is here too. A rare velociraptor trek (one of a dozen worldwide) is revealed. Ripples from the paleo-tropical beaches make waves on the rock. But the highlight is a massive wall covered in tracks from Hadrosaur (duck bill dinosaur) and ornithomimids (small faster omnivore). There are crocodilian prints as well from an ancestral crocodile. It is neat to see how the sizing, spacing and direction of the prints gives insight into dinosaur behavior, such as speed and if they traveled in family groups.

We watch the sunset over red rock amphitheater and have a delicious Indian dinner before the long drive back to my friend’s place.

Negev

Posted on February 28, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

The desert is so beautiful. Looking out over the canyon I admire the setting sun lighting up the cliff faces and mountains in the background.

I wander along, finding peace and cleanliness after a delicious shower and water polo game. There are so many birds, crested doves and flycatchers. Ibex wander the grounds of the kibbutz of Ste Boker, near the communal pool and dining hall. I sit on the dairy side of the hall accidentally with Karin, our group’s security guard, but we share a nice veggie meal and talk about the benefits of the communal lifestyle and some disadvantages.

The meat meal on the other side is delicious, which I return to after running back to the cliffs to watch them glow red with the sunset.

I bus down in the morning with the group, hiking through the sandstone/limestone canyon along the river that carved it out over the millennia. This is one of the few places in the desert with freshwater, so it is well protected for all the wildlife that come drink here, like the ibex along the cliffs. I see a freshwater crab poking out of the river and lots of snails.

There is a nice waterfall, creating a beautiful reflecting pool of the canyon. Climbing on it requires scrambling over slick stairs, but there are hand holds which make it easier.

After a discussion with a park ranger, we continue up the steep steps to the top. It is hot, but the view of the canyon and unique cliff-face at the top is worth it.

We leave Ste boker for a city populated by North African Jews. Though settled by Romanians in 1951, the government had a discriminatory policy of tricking immigrants from Morroco and Tunisia into settling here. They were misinformed that they were being dropped in Jerusalem or Ashkelon, when instead they were brought to this town in the middle of the desert.

It is beautiful to learn about the arabesque mosaics and I get to paint one using a tape outline, but I meticulously mix the colors. It is like art therapy, and we have a great time in the A/C after a hot morning hike.

Lunch is at a the house of Leah, a Tunisian resident whose parents came in the 40s when Israel was formed. Her hospitality and generosity of her sister, who came here on her vacation to assist in cooking (which she did for all 30 of us by hand the night before) was amazing. I had a delicious spicy eggplant appetizer with a crisp bread and salad plate. The main course was vegetables and lamb patties that are so delicious. She tells us how she maintains her traditions, though her sister lives in a kibbutz where they all mix and share their Jewish traditions.

Lago Como

Posted on February 8, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

The deep aqua water shines bright under the hot summer sun. Passing through the channels and curves of Lake Como, I realize this reminds me of the fjords in Norway. It is in fact fjord-like, with its steep mountains jutting out of the water, interesting formations on the peaks, and alps in the distance.

The ferry is the best way to appreciate the lake, watching it from the water as I pass between the small lakeside towns. To start, I skip the long ferry line and I take the bus from Como. Como itself is a charming historic town, formerly responsible for sacking many of the other neighboring towns, which in turn required castles in their defense. The style is classic Italy, cobblestone streets and a large cathedral plaza. I splurge on a huge lasagna while I wait on the ferry, and I end up eating the whole thing. I’ve missed Italy!

The bus is crowded like the line for the ferry, but I have a window seat which helps with the nausea even though I sit backwards. The view is beautiful, and I get to pass through all the coastal towns on the way to Bellagio and see all the different views along what I now realize is the fjord.

Bellagio, like the Vegas hotel, is almost as crowded as Como. The promenade offers a nice view of the lake, however, and I dip my feet at the pier to cool off. The line for the ferry is hectic, and I jump the line to ensure a spot. That’s how I get my seat on the deck, watching the hills and villages from a distance in the sun.

My final stop is Varenna, home of the fortress. This town is popular too, but somehow less crowded, and it maintains all its charm through its single cobblestone street raised above the boardwalk. I walk to the monastery, past a thousand-year-old church, and wade for a bit in the water to cool off before the steep hike up to the castle.

The 12th century castle is so cool and is classic medieval style. The large towers have withstood the invasions of Como, though it has since crumbled and been heavily restored. Not only is it a castle, but also it is a museum! For 5 € I learn about the geology, archeology, and biology of the region. Gaelic artifacts and fossils are on display on different levels of the tower as I climb up the stairs to the top. Beautiful views of the lake await at every level, the best of which is on the terrace. There are rescued birds of prey too, honoring the tradition of falconry.

I walk leisurely down in the cool evening air with a constant view of the lake and setting sun. I find a restaurant along the lakefront for dinner. It is worth waiting in line to be able to watch the sunset as I eat, though the food isn’t amazing and they mess up my order (and deliver it to the wrong table, no less!).

It is magical at night, with lights of the opposing villages reflected on the water. It is a fabulous end to my day on luxurious Lake Como.

Birthday Spectacular

Posted on February 5, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

Waking up in the Swiss alps with a beautiful view of Matterhorn is incomparable. I pack up camp, stop by the local grocery store and pick up some pastries and a toblerone. Of course I have to eat it with the view of Matterhorn in the background, as that’s the mountain on the label. Even the candy is shaped like little mountains, chewy almond nougat like snow. I am a fan!

I leave Switzerland for Italy, hitchhiking a ride from the other side of the mountain range with a French couple, who also agreed Switzerland is too expensive, so they will go to the French alps. I stop for a raspberry donut hole and continue on by train to Italy, but the beautiful view is obscured by a tunnel. This is one of the most beautiful roads in the world and I wish I tried to hitch-hike it too. On the other side the mountains get smaller and smaller into the town of Domodosolla, where I have to transfer. I get briefly rained on during a lunch excursion through the charming Domodosorro old town and try a tiramisu gelato.

I continue to Lago Maggiore for a beautiful stroll along the promenade of Stresa. The alps are faintly visible in the background of the aqua lake. I change out of my alps morning outfit because of the intense heat; it is tempting to go for a swim.

I go to the docks and hop on the boat to the beautiful island I see in the lake. There are several, traditionally fisherman villages, and then royalty occupied castles. I do some birding along the water for grebes and cormorants before I duck inside the castle as it starts to rain.

Isola Bella, meaning “beautiful island.”

A tour of the palace is required to reach the gardens, but I am absolutely impressed. Usually I don’t like baroque style, but the gaudy portrait galleries, ballrooms and banquet halls win me over. I love the Flemish tapestries depicting animals, while still a religious theme, it’s refreshing to see something other than biblical figures.

Though there is plenty of religious art, too; I especially like all the Greek and Roman mythology paintings. I am particularly impressed with the downstairs “grottos” in the stucco style to keep it cool. The windows open up onto the garden veranda, like a patio almost, but now the rooms hold prehistoric artifacts in the dim light. Civilizations have lived on the lake for thousands of years.

Finally, the tour ends and I walk up the steps to the gardens. I am immediately captivated by the sounds of peacocks and the main concourse shining in the sun. The unicorn on top is the symbol of the house Bartolommeo, the royal family of the island.

Up on top is a stunning view of the lake and the gardens. The white peacocks symbolize royalty, but they are white due to a lack of pigmentation from a genetic mutation called leucism. The gardens open up to the view of the alps and a rose garden. I wander around to the other side of the gardens to a little pond, continuing on to a symmetrical flower garden on the opposing side looking out to Stresa. There is a greenhouse at the end as I leave, but I realize I am the last visitor before closing. I have so much fun exploring the well-labeled botanical gardens, admiring the unique collections of plants and birds.

I make the last boat off the island (phew), but miss the train (oh well). I enjoy the sunset with a pizza at the station, surprisingly good in a wood fired oven for the first reasonable price I’ve seen in a week! A birthday pizza is the perfect end to the day, and I take it to go on the next train to Milan.

Glacier Walk

Posted on January 26, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

I walk back through the woods until dusk, and it is dark as I wander past the cottages and restaurants towards the city center. Zermatt is bustling on a Saturday night, and I have surprisingly good Mexican tacos and a quesadilla for dinner. It is the only reasonably priced food in town too.

I summit the next morning to the base of Matterhorn via cable-car. It is pricey, but it’s my birthday weekend after all, so I zip up the cable car after a long line, with every other car going to VIP customers who are served breakfast along the way.

To be fair the gondola ride is really long, so they deserve some snack breaks, but at every stop the poor workers were so stressed preparing for the next car to serve just in time. It was entertaining to watch with the fit Swiss couple that joined me on the gondola up. I just want to take pictures of the beautiful snow covered mountains and glaciers that come into the view, but I stay to my side of the car, and notice another glacier and valley on the other side of Matterhorn. The couple will hike up to the top, they say.

My view from the gondola. This is the way I hike back down!

I hop off at the next stop and admire the reflection of Matterhorn in a lake. The valley formed by the retreating glacier gives the vibe of a construction site at first. Beautiful glaciers and mountains to either side frame Matterhorn nicely.

Informative signs explain native vegetation and how layers of life come to colonize the soil after a glacier retreats. I try to understand the geology scrapings of rocks. Most goes over my head, but there are nice explanations of different rock colors and formations. There is a different term for everything it seems, but this is probably the best geology science communication I’ve seen!

It is really cool to see the glacier tunnels carved by water flowing through. I would love to just peek inside, but it is too dangerous.

This hike offers the best view so far of Matterhorn and surrounding glaciers. Why did I not notice these glaciers before? At a different angle maybe I can see more of the mountains then when hiking underneath it.

I hike up a little bit higher just to see the surroundings. I see the couple from the gondola returning and ask if the view at the top is worth it–and the girl bluntly says, “no”. The rainclouds begin rolling in so I turn back.

I walk down to Zermatt very slowly, savouring the views of the glaciers. I stop to rest on almost every bench to have a snack and look for marmots and birds.

I walk along the beautiful side valley I saw this morning with the hidden side arm of the glacier and snow-covered face of Matterhorn. I’m glad I accidentally take the longer path down, as it is more gradual and very scenic through meadows and forests.

I cross a dam using hydroelectric power from the glacial flow; it is interesting to see how people have modified the landscape; the whole area is like one big pasture in some places! I leave the forest for more residential areas, nibbling on wild raspberries and appreciating the flowers and insects all the way down.

Oeschinensee

Posted on January 23, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

At this point Switzerland was beginning to get to me. I was paying as much as I normally would to sleep in a bed to rent a spot at a crowded campsite. The trains were double the price they should have been. I was feeling like I should have continued wild camping around Norway with those breathtaking views. However, I find a spontaneous detour to hike around a turquoise lake, and it makes all the difference.

My mood is instantly better once I take the more reasonably priced cable-car to get some height and see the bright green lake surrounded by the mountains. For some reason the mountain views alone haven’t been satisfying for me. Or perhaps it’s all the junk food, uncertainty in travel planning, and questioning if I’m on the right path.

Once I hike a bit higher up along the lake and take an energy block, a butterfly lands on me as if it is an omen. It stays with me until I regain the strength to hike up the cliffside on my own. At the top, the view improves so I can see the full scale of the surrounding mountains.

Walking along the cliffs is scary, but Norway prepared me well. I walk with ease along the edge, grateful the path is flat, until I get to the overlook of the lake.

Waterfalls cascade downward into the emerald pool. The kayaks paddling below look like pond skimmers. I eat my snacks and chat with a couple from San Diego who know the guy who reintroduced the california condor with the San Diego zoo. They hiked across all the way from Lauterbrunnen, while I just took the the train!

I make my way quickly down to return to the lake now that the lighting is better. However, now the clouds roll in, providing shade on this hot summer day, yet obscuring the view.

I take the cable car down, and a family from Saudi Arabia joins me in my car. I retrieve my backpack from where I hid it in the bushes and continue on the train south through the alps.

Top of Europe

Posted on January 12, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

Leaving the city behind, the hills grow quickly into mountains of unique shapes. I am already happier to be in the alps, though it was nice to get a city fix for a few days. The lakes are a beautiful blue and are surrounded by steep cliffs. I want to stay when I arrive in the town of Interlaken, but I continue on up to a village in the mountains. The village is called Lauterbrunnen, and it is also the inspiration for Rivendell of Lord of the Rings. I feel very much in a Swiss village, not an elven one, surrounded by all the cute, painted log cabins and flower planters. The view along the valley is full of waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. I set up camp at the base of one of them for the price of a hostel dorm. I wash my clothes and walk down the valley following the crowd until I reach a river.

The river flows milky white down from the glaciers, but is fed by waterfalls tumbling through a cavern. Sort of like La chapelle on Réunion, the strong water carves through the rock. It is very cool and damp in the caverns, a refuge from the valley heat, and it is cool to watch the pulses of water flow over the twisting caverns.

I enjoy coming outside the caverns and seeing the waterfalls in the sunlight, with a better view of the caverns and even rainbows appearing in the spray. The view over the valley is gorgeous, and now I can even see up to the glacier.

I set up camp and enjoy some traditional Swiss folk performances with large drums, orchestra, and yodeling. Lots of kids dance too. There is a march which giant kettle bells that is keeping me awake, so I stay and watch the performances.

The mountains themselves are covered in glaciers. It is so exciting to finally be here in the Swiss alps after flying over and seeing the mountains from above. I always want to jump out the window and land amongst the alps, but now I can just hike.

Photo of Jungfraujoch national park from above

I go up the wrong cable car by accident, but I get fabulous views from the cute town of Murren of the opposing mountainside. I am glued to the window as the sun sparkles off the glaciers. I take advantage and walk down to Grimmelwald, another cute town, with a great view of the mountain. This is where James Bond was filmed, and the views of the opposing glacier must be even better than from here. I decide it’s better to hike next to the glacier than get a view of the opposing side.

Well, it is nice being closer to the glaciers. I never quite get the view or the photo I like on the way up in the cable car. I miss the stop I was supposed to get off at and continue up, but quickly get out and continue on foot when the conductor points out my mistake. Either she lets me get away with it or she doesn’t feel like causing a delay because I get off and she steps aside.

The walk up through the glaciers lacks a single finale moment. It is a different perspective at the foot of Jungfraujoch, the highest mountain in Europe, and nice being at the highest place you can hike to. However, I lack that accomplished feeling.

Foot of Jungfraujoch, the highest mountain in Europe

The view of the glaciers is actually better back towards the town, and even past it on a hike around that gives an overlook of the town of Grindelwald and the surrounding mountains. It’s majestic as the lighting now gives the glaciers it’s time to shine, but I continue walking away. I get great views from the “royal walk” along with lots of cattle and cow bells ringing. I see a lesser weasel, red and small, dart along a stream but I am too slow to get a photo.

I take the overpriced cable car down in the interest of time and because I’m too tired to walk back down. It’s a nice view of the glaciers in the town below called Wengen. It seems unremarkable besides the nice view of the glacier, so I continue on the very crowded train back to camp.

The clouds clear for sunset and suddenly the mountains look like they’re on fire, dyed red from sunlight. I am once again content.

Matterhorn

Posted on January 3, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

Iconic. Glorious. Majestic. Matterhorn is all of these things. The way it juts out so steep from the other surrounding mountains, it certainly deserves its place on the Toblerone candy bar.

The first thing I do once I greet it in the morning sun is rush for the first gondola up to a trail. There is a lake that reflects the Matterhorn, and I sure delight in taking photographs.

I continue along to another lake, a bit green, and another, blue and green depending on the light that is popular for swimming. I’m still a bit cold, so I just wash off my hands in the surprisingly warm water.

The walk is long and the view is only getting hampered by more hills, so I split off instead of returning to the trailhead to see a milky turquoise lake and another reflective lake, since now the wind has picked up.

Valais Black-necked goat
The milky lake of the five lakes hike

I proceed to the next hike, planning to take the train at the next town over, but, afraid of the steep price, I hike up instead. It is very hard hiking uphill at altitude, and the clear skies and sun get surprisingly hot, even as I gain elevation and get a breeze. I take lots of breaks on the way up, and I almost give up when I see another train station. But after asking the price again, and after resting and snacking at the station shop, I recharge my batteries (literally, as my phone is almost dead) and continue up.

Northern Goshawk taking a break from hunting songbirds

It is not as steep, but the altitude is getting to me, and I get a headache. I pass lots of burrows of marmots and reach a lake, which is supposed to be reflective if not for the wind. There is a lot of native alpine vegetation and even a little botanic garden, so I appreciate the distraction. I feel miserable until I see the glaciers over the hills and feel like the hills are alive. I regain strength to make it to the viewpoint, but a train station and a $20 ticket to the top motivate me. It takes 5 minutes but I needed it. Just walking to the viewpoint takes all that’s left of my energy.

Smiling, but the altitude sickness has me feeling dead inside

View outside the train station

I spend what feels like an hour admiring the glacier arm that stretches out and down the valley farther than the eye can see. It is the 3rd largest glacier in Europe and it seems like it. I’m impressed by this view, with other glaciers on the mountaintops and a gorgeous mountain backdrop. Of course Matterhorn is visible, but it isn’t the star here as the glacier shines. It would be amazing to hike below.

Gornergrat glacier

Alpine cough, a type of corvid, with an alpine backdrop

The sun is beginning to set, but I think I have just enough time to make it back to Zermatt. I decide to hike, as I feel better immediately going down as I breathe more oxygen in. I feel a new life return to me as I pass the lake again. Sheep are being herded by a shepherd telling what seems like mariachi screams. They run along in the setting sun as I continue down all the way I came.

I enter down into the shadow as the sun dips behind the mountain. I start to think maybe there isn’t enough time, so I quicken my pace down the dirt path. It branches off into the forest, and I notice how quiet it is. All of a sudden I spot three chamois, a type of goat-antelope. They are skidding at first and head off down the path, but one lingers eating. Keeping a watchful eye on me, I carefully meander along the path until I get a clear shot. I am reinvigorated, if not by the scenery at the glacier, then by wildlife photography, and I finally feel this trip to Switzerland is worthwhile!

A doe carefully eyeing me

Helvetestind

Posted on December 14, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I stand here at the top of the steep mountain climb, a hike that has me reeling with vertigo and tricky steep climbs, grateful for a view that is unrivaled. The past couple days hiking in other areas of Lofoten have been too difficult for unequal views.

On my last day in Lofoten I have to return to the majestic Reinefjord. It is too difficult doing other hikes and having any other view than the sharp mountains surrounding the blue fjord. I set off to get into the middle of the fjord. The ferry is full, so I wait for the next one, but it is worth the wait.

The hike is steep and I get my boots caked in mud. It is a lot easier scrambling up the rocks then going down, although the trail is still very muddy.

The view at the top gives a great view over the spiky peaks of the kirkefjord. While the neighboring spires are covered in clouds, fortunately this peak is not, and the view remains unobscured the whole hike.

The path continues along the ridge, and it is not as dizzying as it first appears. The steep slopes on either side are more tapered and the path is plenty wide across. The view here looks down the other side towards Bunes beach.

The trail down is a struggle, more of a slide than a hike. There is a long line to return on the ferry, so I find a shelter and review some of my thesis edits while I wait on my phone. This is my final hike in the Lofoten islands and in Norway, so I am happy to stretch it out as long as I can.