Krauss-ing The World

Tucson

Posted on 4 Days Ago by krauss-ingtheworld

The mountains of Tucson with their red misshapen peaks greet me as I fly in. I meet my colleagues to carpool over to my hotel, which I soon discover is in the not-so-nice part of downtown.

The conference is off to a great start with some interesting questions on changing the narrative in water messaging, being careful of the dominant narrative of resilience and considering other perspectives around it.

I sneak on a trip to the Tucson desert museum, which is essentially a zoo of native species. It is cool to see squirrels and lizards and birds and butterflies flitting around the gardens. In captivity I am surprised to see a mountain lion, asleep underneath the window. It is strange being so close to a cougar, and I get a glance as the sleeping panther wakes up from a nap.

I love seeing all of the reptiles and aviaries with native birds that allow me to be so intimate with otherwise rare animals. I adore seeing the mountain landscapes of Saguaro national park and all the saguaros and other cacti! There are so many different kinds of cactii in the gardens. My favorite exhibit is the hummingbird house that has five different species buzzing around. I manage to get decent iPhone pictures, lamenting leaving my camera behind on the last-minute excursion.

The opening reception of the conference is nice as the sun sets. There is a networking happy hour, and I meet colleagues from EPA’s delegation, then enjoy free drinks and food as a fantastic band plays. As I Uber to my hotel, my driver informs me of the fentanyl issue plaguing the area and advises me not to walk around at night.

I go for a hike the following morning after hearing from the Office of Water assistant administrator how great it is along the Santa Cruz river and behind the resort. Near me it is barren and full of trash and unhoused folks keeled over in the tunnels, but I see some beautiful birds.

What is amazing is hiking behind the resort into the the canyon. Being surrounded by hills covered in saguaros on all sides is so unique. I see a couple flocks of quail and many other birds. The afternoon sessions all cover communications, and I have to rush back to see the assistant administrator speak over a delicious lunch, otherwise I would stay hiking all day!

There is another happy hour, but we leave early to get Mexican at a local market. They have pumpkin horchata, but they forget to bring out my burrito and it gets cold. It is delicious reheated the next day though!

I carpe the diem and hike again the next day up the hill through the hidden valley trail. The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning, and of course so are the cacti and birds. I spend some time to create videos talking about the plants on site. I see gila woodpeckers and others making nests and eating cactii flowers.

After the conference I head to Tumamoc hill, with signs about the indigenous people who have lived there for thousands of years. It was nice learning about their water use and how they have survived with responsible water; they view water as a relative and honor it as such. I see many birds on the way up to the viewpoint looking over Tucson and at the top I see a hawk! There are many informative signs speaking to the ecology and archeology of the hill. On the way out as my Uber arrives I finally see a roadrunner! I snag a picture or two before I feel pressured to leave.

Rock walls enhanced rainwater flow to grow agave

The downtown area is really hip and vinbrant. The old Pueblo style buildings are covered in some of the most beautiful street art along fun bars and funky restaurants. I stop for some raspberry fudge ice cream as I tour the Spanish colonial architecture of downtown. There is a little market and lots of musicians playing as I make my way over the footpath around the central plaza de armas, a Spanish style plaza.

There is a large cathedral and some historic Freemason buildings around but I head past into Barrio Viejo. Here the adobe buildings are so colorful and full of little gems like a wishing well. There is an event taking place where community members are speaking of the hundreds of migrants killed on the way to Arizona. As the street lights turn on I take a Lyft back to the hotel and get a workout in.

I get up with sunrise and walk along the river, this time until I reach an actual river with the rain from the night before. Supposedly, it is the first time it has rained in over a month! The stream is full of life and many colorful birds. The river is free of trash as collectors pick it up and the vegetation is lush and full of trees. I love how ephemeral everything is; a cactus flower along the hotel is in bloom and the next day is closed. There is a great view of A hill and the surrounding mountain landscapes in the morning sun.

I turn back as I have to catch my flight, but I see vermilion flycatchers, a Harris hawk, and several roadrunners! I am late for the airport as I take my time photographing, and have a hard time pulling myself away from the charismatic species. But I have plenty of time thanks to a quick Uber and TSA pre check to skip the long security line!

Protected: A bump in the road

Posted on 11 Days Ago by krauss-ingtheworld

Mesa verde

Posted on 23 Days Ago by krauss-ingtheworld

Along the way to the southwest corner of Colorado to see the annular eclipse at Mesa Verde, we catch glimpses of the beautiful mountains of Buena vista and Breckenridge under a clear sky.

We make a pit stop at the Great Sand Dunes national park and mountains of Mt. blanc. Running up the sand dune is so exhausting, but sliding down on a board borrowed from a nearby family is so fun! The sand squeaks as I press into it and shimmy down the steep dune.

The mountain pass is beautiful and overlooks lakes filled with migrating sandhill cranes. I spot several flying overhead. We stop in Durango for a delicious wood fired pizza, which I hadn’t had since the year before in Europe. Plus it is good to have leftovers to snack as we make our way through Mesa Verde.

We set up camp in a field of aspens, which is freezing at night but beautiful to wake up to in the morning.

The car winds its way up through the plateaus of mesa verde. We continue on to the highest point of the national park for the annular eclipse. The moon starts nibbling at the edge of the sun while we look out over Four Corners and Utah.

The sun turns into a Pac-Man shape. Several dozen people are gathered and add to the excitement, and a park ranger walks around answering questions. The birds fly around and the sky begins to darken. The crescent takes on a cheshire cat smile as the air gets cooler. I run back to the car and get my jacket as it is much colder. The crescent slowly turns into a beautiful glowing ring. It is very cool, like a ring of Soron from Lord of the Rings. I played “Ring of Fire” by Johnny Cash from my phone unironically.

Look how the shadows between the leaves take the shape of the crescent sun. The direction of the crescent is flipped as the moon passes from one side of the sun to the other.

Afterwards we drive around and see the ancient pueblo dwellings in the cliff side. The architecture is really neat. It is fun pulling over and seeing all the variations scattered around the canyon.

There is a nice museum in the middle of the park. There are some designs on the pottery that look just like the dinosaur tracks. It is fun to learn some of the geological and historical context of the site. The Ancestral Pueblo peoples have lots of creative innovations and beautiful pottery.

The cliff side palace steals the show. Dating back to the year 1300, it was occupied for 100 years. There is a large tower and some cylindrical buildings. A collapsed boulder is naturally incorporated into the architecture. The large circular, ceremonial rooms, called “kivas,” can be seen from above. The “windows” of the buildings also function as the doors. Remnants of plaster colored orange and red are painted over the ruins.

The ancestral pueblo peoples must have been fit! I can barely climb out at this latitude. Climbing out we grab handholds that have worn into the rock from the climbers going up and down. Luckily we get to use a ladder.

There are some fantastic mesa views that we stop by on the way out. We decide to take the scenic route back, driving through yellow, orange and red aspen forests. There are some gorgeous mountain ranges outside of Telluride. Lake Trout offers breathtaking views.

In Telluride, we take the gondola up the mountain to properly take in the view. On the way out we see a herd of elk, including some babies!

Colorado

Posted on March 19 by krauss-ingtheworld

The pronghorn line the hills on the road past unique rock formations. I get excited to photograph my first one, but there are hordes of them, composed of a male with several females.

I think the heart shaped butt is so cute. They are the fastest animal in the western hemisphere and are more closely related to the giraffe than antelope!

We drive into the cloud hiding the mountain views of Breckenridge, but we stop for breakfast in Buena Vista and the weather clears. We go for a drive to a lake with beautiful yellow aspen forests and snow-dusted mountains.

The weather clears and we can see the other mountains further down near a hot spring. The pool is closed, but the mountains and river are beautiful.

As rain clouds return, we take a break to dine on delicious bison ravioli and pumpkin soup.

We walk along the river with all the mountains on display but they are quickly obscured by rain clouds. We hurry back and head home with more spectacular sights along the way.

It is funny to see the mule deer scratch itself with its hoof

***

The impending storm does not look promising. Pikes peak, the closest mountain, is shrouded in clouds. The ranger says it’s only half open, so my friend and I drive out to Garden of the Gods.

These red rock formations are something else. The tall, skinny towers jut out, the sturdiest of the soft Morrison formation that’s been weathered away. Mountain sheep pose stoically on a ridge top. They appear so wise, seemingly staring at the view and chewing cud.

We take off for the paint mine—an area of multi colored clay. Pink, orange and white spatter the quarry, which has been used by indigenous peoples for thousands of years to paint and make pottery and just enjoy. We too enjoy navigating the pink caverns, tracing orange and white walls with multi colored hoodoos to mark the path. It looks fantastic as the sun comes out showing off the bright colors.

We trek back to Denver to see red rock amphitheater, a horseshoe-shaped giant rock formation used as a concert space. They sure are impressive!

Across is dinosaur ridge, where bones and treks are imprinted into the multicolored stone faces. A unique erosion ball is here too. A rare velociraptor trek (one of a dozen worldwide) is revealed. Ripples from the paleo-tropical beaches make waves on the rock. But the highlight is a massive wall covered in tracks from Hadrosaur (duck bill dinosaur) and ornithomimids (small faster omnivore). There are crocodilian prints as well from an ancestral crocodile. It is neat to see how the sizing, spacing and direction of the prints gives insight into dinosaur behavior, such as speed and if they traveled in family groups.

We watch the sunset over red rock amphitheater and have a delicious Indian dinner before the long drive back to my friend’s place.

Boulder

Posted on March 7 by krauss-ingtheworld

The flatirons jut starkly out from the earth. It is fun learning about the geology on a hike with UC Boulder scientists. They explain how the plates rise at a 50 degree angle and became smooth through erosion with water over time.

The phone rings as I enter the Boulder Natural History Museum. It’s Michael Mann, renowned climate scientist, and I missed his call because of time difference. I find a quiet corner for the interview and it goes well. Mike is chatty so I only ask a few questions further discussing his keynote talk that morning.

I get to peak behind the scenes at the archeology of bison and horses in Colorado. We journey even further back in time with fossils of dinosaurs and ancient invertebrates like sea sponges and insects.

Fossil of a giant tsi-tsi fly. Some species I’m glad went extinct!

Afterwards I get to share local craft beer with radio producers, hosts and learn more about podcasting. Editors from HHMI tangled banks studios host a special reception as part of the Science Writers 2023 conference in Boulder, Colorado.

The final day of the conference I get to visit the Boulder mountain research station. We learn about the research spanning climate change to pikas, a cute rabbit relative that cannot survive in the alpine environments past 78 degrees. There are bee houses for native solitary bees, grasshoppers, many chittering red squirrels and yellow aspens & green pines. The view isn’t bad either.

I reunite with my friend and take off for Rocky Mountain National Park. The timed entry ticket expires 20 minutes before we arrive, but the park service lets us in with a knowing smile.

The views from the parking lot are already beautiful with several sharp, snow capped mountain peaks. Going up the paved road, we pass several lakes that reflect them. The yellow aspen leaves fall as chipmunks and jays fly by. I start to feel the altitude as we ascend, but the sun comes out and I am motivated to get to the trail end.

Lake Haiyaha, sacred space to the Ute people, has an emerald hue. The color change is a result of a landslide in 2021 that added glacial silt to the water, causing it to reflect emerald. It is not turquoise like in photos, but it is still beautiful beneath the mountains.

I develop a headache and quickly lose my appetite (though the breakfast burrito I get from Torchy’s Tacos doesn’t help). We head back down the mountain, passing bear lake as the sun sets. I don’t feel better until we are back in Boulder, although drinking pho soup broth helps.

We drive out to my friend’s house, where the stars are clear and elk line the roads near a fossil monument.

San Diego

Posted on February 27 by krauss-ingtheworld

Immediately upon entering the cold, murky water my body goes into shock. I see a dark elongated body flash by underneath me. And then another. I am surrounded by leopard sharks. I swim to where there is more visibility and I get a good look at their pointed faces and dark color patterns. Some are accompanied by remora, fish attaching themselves to their bodies to get a nibble at the crustaceans and other food they dig up in the sand.

I see over a dozen shark pups, but I also see smaller ones too. Maybe they are just younger pups, or different sharks altogether. A skate flashes by, puzzling me with its unique appearance until I realize what it is. Eagle rays fly by in the dozens, as plentiful as the sharks.

The sea lions are so cute playing in the waves along the beach. Young pups bother their seniors, nibbling on tails and coughing up a storm. A large bull male lies on the beach until a raucous eruption of vocalizations at the other end causes him to go in the water. A female suns herself on a rock in the middle of the beach completely asleep. Or so it seems, until some tourists get too close, and she lunges to bite.

Tide pooling is slippery and difficult amongst the algae covered rocks. Green anemones, crabs, hermits, snails and limpets, and barnacles compete for precious real estate in the harsh littoral zone. A guppy flashes by, but I don’t see much other movement.

It is interesting to see life along the coast as the hurricane approaches. Some birds sheek shelter but most still fly around nonchalantly. The sea lions play as usual, and to answer my question of what they do as seas surge, I spy a seal on a rock get buffeted by waves. But it remains like a statue, unperturbed.

It is neat to see ephemeral waterfalls emerge and spill over the cliff side onto the beach. I pass pelicans and oystercatchers and plovers resting beneath me before sheltering the rest of the day from the storm.

The San Diego zoo is amazing. Fortunately the animals aren’t harmed by the storm. It is good to see koalas and Tasmanian devils and all my Australian and lemur friends again. I even see lots of new animals I have never seen before! The bird aviaries are very immersive, and I am very impressed by the quality of the zoo.

Koala
Coquerel’s sifaka
Red panda
Andean bear
Trogon
Golden takin
Pompadour cotinga

We have dinner in San Diego old town, which is essential a Spanish mission. The historic buildings have been well preserved and restored, and the area has a festive atmosphere with local dancers singing and performing. The dinner in the restaurant at the center of the marketplace is divine; I try the best steak of my life cooked in a molcajete, or the traditional mexican volcanic mortar and pestle dish. We check out the surrounding market in what feels like an immersive experience in Mexico (San Diego was historically Mexico, after all.)

Nicosia

Posted on February 8 by krauss-ingtheworld

The city of Nicosia is really interesting and seems more polished on the Cypriot side. I walk down the main laneway through the shops to the Turkish border. It is the easiest border crossing of my life; I wait in a short line, scan my passport on both sides, then cross through. I check in at my dingy communal style hotel and set off to explore.

The old town seems a bit rundown but authentic in some way. Many more houses are in the Ottoman style. The Turkish people here saw themselves as an oppressed minority under Cypriot rule, and the Turkish occupation that invaded and took over the Northern half of Cyprus are considered “liberators.” At least according to the informational signs. Are the residents here content to be separate from the rest of Cyprus? Graffiti near the border crossing calls for “One Cyprus,” though this stance is controversial on the Turkish side.

I walk the recommended route around the Northern half of the city. The walls are Venetian but resemble Lucca’s in that they can be climbed and walked along like a park. They blend seamlessly into the city, and one end has been developed with restaurants and cafes and a park. The park is bordered by barbed wire along the border with a large UN tower, but the children play nonetheless.

There are cute alleys with Ottoman architecture that lead to the main marketplace. Doner kebabs, Turkish delights, and the smell of incense are everywhere, as are all the typical tourist traps. There is an interesting hub I suspect is a mosque, but it is really a central marketplace selling arts and crafts and a restaurant. It is called a Han, and this one was built in the 15th century. There are others that are smaller nearby, as well as mosques, although the grand mosque is under construction. The map leads me through the neighborhood and back up to the wall, so I return to the marketplace for a yummy pide, a cheesy Turkish flatbread.

Back on the Greek side, I have a classic spinach and cheese pie as I set off along the Venetian wall. There are public gardens and monuments lining the preserved segments of wall, though most has been refurbished by the British, leaving a singular entrance intact at the end. The other is under construction, unfortunately. There are lots of important buildings in this area for the archbishop, including a church and the Archbishop’s palace, housed in a recently renovated ottoman-style building. The classic ottoman alleys line most of the streets, though they are more recently renovated than the northern side.

I go up the high tower for a view and a blatantly biased history lesson from above the city. The mountains towering in the background look great despite the gloomy sky. Any mentions of a Turkish revolt shortly after the establishment of Cyprus fail to divulge that equal rights were quickly undermined by sweeping reforms to discriminate against and minoritize the Turkish inhabitants.

I continue meandering the traditional shopping area of the main street under the covered flags and mosaic walkways. Unsuccessful on this side, I cross the border to get a bamboo towel.

I watch a whirling dervish spin and twirl around. I remember learning about the Sufi ritual in my AP world civilizations class. Every step is symbolic from the dress to the movements. It is mesmerizing to watch, and he takes lots of meditative breaks between whirls (to stop from getting too dizzy, I suppose). I am dizzy just watching.

I cross back over the border for a final meal of moussaka (with the same restaurant and waiting staff that served Bill Clinton on his monumental visit to Cyprus). Clinton ordered the zucchini balls and some chips, or so I’m told by the waiter, who proudly shows me his photo with Clinton on the wall. I am treated to a mastika shot, which tastes woody and herbal like the mastic ice cream, but it is sweet. It is not so strong—I like it better than Ouzo.

I cross back one last time to the Turkish side. But not before stopping by a queer community space that caught my eye! There is an exhibit on anthologies of queer literature, including books on BDSM, military trade, and a book called Sex Ecologies that was fascinating to skim through. It reminded me of the importance of breaking the boundaries imposed by science and western patriarchy on the natural world. The lizards and birds here have no respect for a border wall.

The journey back to Paphos goes seamlessly. I chuck my luggage under the bus station info center and do some last-minute shopping around the old Paphos marketplace. I have one last souvlaki (delicious with spicy feta), my first carob ice cream, and one last bus ride to the airport for a final halloumi and pumpkin pie.

Edge of the EU

Posted on February 6 by krauss-ingtheworld

At first light, after stocking up on pastries for the day, I begin hiking along the coast. The beaches are sandy, the water looks beautiful, and palm trees line the path. Just a bit further along the coastline becomes rocky like a lunar desert, the sun gets hot and my shoes get torn up by the sharp rocks. I persevere through to see the unique rock formations, caves and natural bridges along the coast. I finally make it to a row of sea caves. I climb down inside one, but I don’t risk the rough waters (besides, the sea is too cold for me). I do wade a bit in a rocky lagoon; the water is crystal clear without the brown sandy beaches underneath.

I follow a path through the rocky landscape to the start of a nature trail along the side of a large cliff. It is spectacular for birding, and I see a giant lizard on a rock too. I don’t get too close to the water here, but I can see caverns and canyons from a distance. I go up to the viewpoint for a look at Cape Greco, the easternmost point of the EU, and a great view back from where I hiked. It is tricky to get back down, and I’m tempted to keep circling around the cliff-face with the trail offering fantastic views and a sea breeze. But I continue on towards Cape Greco.

I cross Cape Greco to a particularly blue lagoon, which is only so blue because it is so rocky!

There is a cave just a bit further up the coast and a small church where I rehydrate and even get an oreo ice cream. Hiking along the protected forest trail, looking out over the rocky coastline to see a beautiful beach bay—all while licking an ice cream—has to be my favorite way to hike.

I continue down to the beach and back up along the trail over some more turquoise bays until I reach the “cyclops cave”. This cool cave has nothing to do with The Odyssey, but it’s cool how it connects through the cliff and comes out the other side. At this point, I turn around and take the bus back, watching the sun set over the sea behind the clouds.

In the morning I hike the opposite direction to the beautiful Nissi beach. It rains on and off, and I have to pass through a sandy gulf to continue the path, but it is beautiful when I arrive. The sandy beach and water, even when overcast, still glows turquoise. The little island off the coast is nice too. I find the sand is warmest at the place where the water hits the shore. I dip my feet in the water—and to my surprise the water is warmer than the outside temperature. I warm my feet a little before I walk back under the cover of clouds. Ironically, the sun comes out right as I return only to sit and wait an hour for the bus to my final destination in Cyprus.

Neolithic village

Posted on January 25 by krauss-ingtheworld

I stop over in the neolithic village of Choirokoitia. Well, I try to, but I don’t recognize the stop, and the driver continues past the neolithic village entrance. After a panicked discussion with the driver, I am dropped off at a Mcdonalds and walk 45 minutes on the side of the road to get back. I leave my luggage at a bakery near the entrance and have a delicious pumpkin, rice and raisin pie.

The neolithic village is so worth it! The reconstruction of the houses involved archeologists and local builders who understand the traditional construction methods of the area. They tried to recreate the houses based on how they suspect it would have been made with mud bricks covered with earthen plaster.

I continue up the trail to see the foundations dating back to the 7th millennium BCE! I have never been to ruins so old before. It is interesting how the walls look like they could have been made in medieval times, but they’re all free of metal and simply use materials from Cyprus. The wall also does not appear to be defensive, but more of a community-defining feature, which is cute. Rocks jut out, which would be easy to climb anyways. The entrance is hidden, however, with a concealed staircase going up towards the houses. Only the circular foundations remain. Some features are visible, and it is really interesting following the wall down outside to the “newer” edge of the settlement, as they expanded beyond the enclosure over the millennia as the settlement grew.

I visit another bakery for a halloumi pie and don’t have to wait long for the next bus. I arrive in Larnaca, surprised to find quaint Ottoman architecture remaining on the streets surrounding the grand mosque. I don’t go inside, but I appreciate it from the exterior. It is next to a medieval fortress, but I also decide not to enter after visiting so many others on this trip. I also pass the famous cathedral of Lazarus (the guy who was resurrected, supposedly, and buried a second time here). The cloisters seem charming, but I instead opt for ruins.

These are the remains of the temple of the great goddess of Cyprus, a Mycenaean precursor to Aphrodite. The palace has drawings and inscriptions on the walls, some of which are indicative of boats. There are foundations of ancient baths and a small pool and several column foundations. Lots of walls and building foundations remain. These are over three thousand years old—the oldest being almost four thousand. It is cool to see how the bricks are laid and how that changes with the arrival of the Greeks.

Boat symbol (note the triangle shape of a sail)

I explore the town a bit and admire the Ottoman style. This is the first I’ve seen of it on Cyprus, though I recognize it immediately from the Balkans. I head over to the salt lake, just on a hunch to do some birding despite the on and off rain. Luggage in tow, I chuck it beneath a theater then go off trail to see the lake. The stormy clouds in the distance are menacing. The sun pierces through and creates a dramatic backdrop, which is reflected in the calm lake. It is muddy, and red with algae; I slip and slide as I approach on the mud flats to reach the lake. I am thrilled to see hundreds of flamingos feeding at the shoreline. They pose as they walk calmly through the water, though a bunch of them take off flying across. It is majestic watching them feed, and I can hear the sound of them swishing their bills against the sand. There are so many of them, some pinker than others, and they walk gracefully across in a procession beneath the dramatic sky.

Limassol

Posted on January 23 by krauss-ingtheworld

I take the bus first thing from Paphos across Cyprus to Limassol, but I arrive in the pouring rain. I wait it out, drop my luggage at the hostel, and catch the bus out to the ancient greek city-state of Kourion. The Greek amphitheater has Roman renovations, and much of the Roman ruins here feature early Christian era villas. They have symbols, classic gladiator motifs and mythology displayed on mosaics.

The remaining Roman marble pillars stand tall against the Mediterranean Sea, its edge lined with steep cliffs. One pillar has a corkscrew pattern I adore. I have to backtrack through the park to exit, which is annoying, and it’s hot under the sun, but I finally make it up to some more ruins.

The remains of heating systems for roman baths

A Roman stadium, just the remains of a wall in an oblong oval shape, is on the path. There is a nature trail, so I leave the hot road in favor of the scrub forest filled with wild thyme and sage. I see a kestrel overhead and a black snake slithers across the path out of sight.

On the horizon, shining in the sunlight against the dark storm clouds, is the Temple of Apollo. This site has been in use since ancient times, then became an early Apollo shrine. The Greek portico got a Roman upgrade by Emperor Trajan, who added his own additions to the temple. Legend has it that whoever touches the sacred altar of Apollo gets cast into the sea. I didn’t take my chances and kept my distance—but got close enough to appreciate the details. Some more remains of Roman bath heating systems are on display.

I hurry back as the rain begins to pour, sprinting downhill to shelter from the storm. I wait for the bus to take me back to town as the sun returns.

The downtown area is charming in the “old center”. It seems quite modern with trendy cafes and a modern agora filled with restaurants. I walk along the harbor to watch the sunset as I check out the sculpture garden; it’s a bit too abstract for my tastes. I have a delicious chicken Tikka wrap and walk along the Greek-style monuments. There is a large mosque and a church that I admire from the outside. I stop for some loukamades (greek donuts) that I customize with riccota, honey and cinnamon—a divine combination.

The city is pretty cool and I’m glad I decided to stay the night.