byzantine fortress | Krauss-ing The World

Paphos

Posted on January 1 by krauss-ingtheworld

It is great to be in the warm sun again! I shed my layers and walk around with my luggage along the Cyprus coastline to embrace the warm wind. I notice tunnels along an ancient wall above the coastal walk. After dropping off my luggage I return to investigate.

There are tunnels all throughout the hillside like a labyrinth. I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider as I duck inside the narrow passageways, climbing into a larger chamber, then navigating to the other caves. There is a large central entrance that branches off in dozens of directions. It is a maze; I’m certain I explore it all, but who knows? It is really remarkable, and I seem to be the only one inside for the moment. There is a Roman mural too and what looks like an old stadium of some kind.

Curious, I check out the archeological park. To my surprise, there are dozens of ancient Roman villa remains from the Hellenistic period. There are so many remaining pillars, columns and foundations of the buildings still intact. Others are left behind swept to the side, making for a perfect picnic spot as I gaze off to the sea and contemplate what the palace must have looked like.

Dozens of Roman mosaics, in the best condition I’ve seen, dazzle with remarkable geometric patterns and symbols. Many have vibrant colors and detail iconic scenes of lore. The Minotaur, the legend of Dionysus, his colonization of India, Achilles, Leda and the swan, and Scylla from The Odyssey all make appearances. My favorite is a hunting scene in the house, with a dog used to hunt by the looks of it.

I make my way across a ruined Christian temple and towards the ancient agora. Little remains of this massive complex except a theater and neighboring house of healing (purpose debated). The view from up top is grand. There is a lot of natural vegetation, incorporated in the formation of the archeological park, as this is critical habitat for migratory birds.

My last stop is the temple of Apollo or underground passageways of Phoenicians. I almost miss it, but I happen to stumble upon one of the entrances. I go down expecting to get lost, but somehow the maze of tunnels seems more organized.

The caves are more like tombs, and some have very small niches and grooves. A lot of the rooms are more cozy, and there is less mess than the tunnels outside the park. I explore this amazing remnant of history, pondering its purpose, until my stomach urges me to check in to my hotel.

Ferry to Albania

Posted on October 5 by krauss-ingtheworld

I do not want to leave my luxurious place on the cliff side above the turquoise bays. Unfortunately I am here just before the weekend, with a bus that doesn’t run on weekends. So I take the last 7:15am bus, up at the crack of dawn, to head to the port to catch a 9am ferry. It is cloudy, so the sunrise is nothing spectacular, but the clouds clear as I depart from the island. Watching Corfu from the ocean looks magical. The mainland of Greece and Albania looks pretty nice as well, and I zoom past an area I return to that afternoon.

Upon arrival in Sarande, I go through customs on a dock, which is a first for me. I get an Albanian SIM card (as my Eurozone SIM card no longer works), find a place to stay the night, and finally figure out where the bus is so that I can head towards this beautiful place I glimpsed on the boat ride.

I am surrounded by hills and green water that fills in the islet. The area along the bay of the Mediterranean is turquoise and filled with fish. Fisherman line the inlet as I watch from the medieval fortress walls. Here is an archeological park, nature reserve and recreational spot all in one.

The Butrint settlement was first Greek, established as a temple around refugees from Troy. The natural springs attracted attention, and people came to see the temple. They eventually built an arena (remodeled by the Romans), but it is cool seeing the surrounding developments. Mostly in ruins, and flooded by water, they become habitats for the local turtles.

I enjoy wandering the old Hellenistic walls dating back to 6th century BCE, complete with a Roman insignia to narrow the tunnels. The Greek architecture is just blocks stacked on blocks with no cement. It’s remarkable — and it’s built to last!

Roman animal design, narrowing the tunnel for better defenses

This wall follows a nice path through the forest along the inlet and has great views (but also lots of mosquitos). I climb up to the Byzantine castle, traveling to a third time period. The castle houses a museum with artifacts from the area throughout the millennia of occupation.

I go on a beach crawl, since there is not really a continuous coastline. Along the coast there are many inlets, each with its own beach. The best are on the outermost point of the peninsula—sandy white with several islets within a stone’s throw. The water is perfectly turquoise and fish can be seen swimming around the algae and rocks.

I watch the sunset and catch the last bus back to Sarande.

It is pleasant walking along the promenade around the many bars and restaurants. I have some brick-oven fired pizza and retreat to sleep as a thunderstorm rolls in.

***

It’s a really interesting landscape with mountains along the coastline, and I catch glimpses through the clouds as I make my way up the coast.

The town of Vlore is nice along the beach and has a long promenade. I get a place right on the shoreline for $30, thanks to a connection from a dating app and several unresponsive booking requests (the place I had booked canceled because of the storm. I guess I can’t blame them for not wanting to go out in the downpour).

There are a few nice mosques. I enjoy walking through a colorful central plaza, and an old strip called the Jewish street. There are interesting motifs along the wall and Albanian flags lining the stone streets. I get a smoothie for $2 and an ice cream before I make my way to the bus station to continue up through Albania.

“Jewish Street”

Ioannina

Posted on September 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

On an impulse after departing the lovely mountains of Meteora and driving through the mountainous villages, I stay the afternoon in Ioannina.

Attracted by the lake with a mountain backdrop, I linger only so much as to walk around the circumference of the old fortress walls. I do some light photography of the waterfowl and monastic island in the lake. The monasteries there are the former refuge of the orthodox monks before they arrived at Meteora. It piques my interest, but I’m more impressed by the walls encircling the historic town.

I wander through the halls as I am transported back to the Byzantine empire—and Ottoman-era refurbishments that restored these walls and buildings. Notable buildings are the grand mosques, built over even older churches, and remaining structures including towers. A particularly notable one is called Its Kale!

I go in a mosque, and to my surprise there are Jewish artifacts from the historic communities dating back to the establishment of Ioannina. Jewish Greek life extends to the 3rd centry BCE, and their descendents have unique clothing and ketubahs, a Jewish marriage contract. Silver work, characteristic of the region, binds together the scroll of Esther. Inside the interior of the mosque there is beautiful islamic architecture and mother of pearl inlaid on walnut furniture.

The streets of old town are cobbled and filled with pastel houses and plazas. The old synagogue is still standing and in use. The newer area outside the walls is full of bars and lively restaurants and has a certain charm. The city lines the lake and has lots of green space and forests to compliment the development.

I am quite happy with my break in Ioannina, though I am careful to depart at sunset because I have a ferry to catch!

Thessaloniki

Posted on September 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

When I saw a $20 flight to Thessaloniki from Zagreb, I booked it impulsively, knowing I wanted to return to Greece. I was sad I didn’t finish traveling through Croatia, and I was coming to regret it, but immediately I was impressed with the Macedonian city.

The area has plenty of restaurants and bars to offer along the main promenade. There are Roman ruins scattered throughout this area alongside Ottoman structures and Byzantine era churches. A large white tower stands along the coast, remnants from its time as the second largest city of the Byzantine empire.

I have a delicious Greek groat mediterranean bowl for 2 euros before hiking up the hill. It is called the Acropolis, but the remains are of a Roman fortress that became a Byzantine wall to defend the city from Turkish invaders. The sunset view above the ocean is beautiful with the historic walls as a backdrop.

I wind carefully down through the old town at the foot of the castle, cobblestone hills and vines and other greenery lining the characteristic Greek houses. At the bottom, large villas and palaces make up the cityscape, some sporting Turkish decor.

There is a bustling marketplace and central plaza around Roman ruins that inspire a little window shopping. I return in the morning to the rotunda to see the early Christian murals along the ceiling on the inside and a museum about Christians that fled here in the early 19th century.

I also take advantage of the holiday to see the museum for free, with a beautiful overview of ancient Macedonia through the empire and Roman succession. There is ornate pottery, burial gold craftwork, and intact tools from everyday life.

Today is “Ohi” day, or “No” day, in commemoration of the day the Greeks stood against Nazi invaders during WWII. They ultimately lost, but they are proud that they resisted. Different branches of the military in their fun uniforms walk past me towards a parade that is gathering, with hundreds of people beginning to form a crowd. I quickly escape from the hullabaloo to collect my luggage and head for the train station for my next destination.

My train passes by Mount Olympus, mythic home of the Greek gods, surrounded by a swirling cloud.