byzantine | Krauss-ing The World

Paphos

Posted on January 1 by krauss-ingtheworld

It is great to be in the warm sun again! I shed my layers and walk around with my luggage along the Cyprus coastline to embrace the warm wind. I notice tunnels along an ancient wall above the coastal walk. After dropping off my luggage I return to investigate.

There are tunnels all throughout the hillside like a labyrinth. I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider as I duck inside the narrow passageways, climbing into a larger chamber, then navigating to the other caves. There is a large central entrance that branches off in dozens of directions. It is a maze; I’m certain I explore it all, but who knows? It is really remarkable, and I seem to be the only one inside for the moment. There is a Roman mural too and what looks like an old stadium of some kind.

Curious, I check out the archeological park. To my surprise, there are dozens of ancient Roman villa remains from the Hellenistic period. There are so many remaining pillars, columns and foundations of the buildings still intact. Others are left behind swept to the side, making for a perfect picnic spot as I gaze off to the sea and contemplate what the palace must have looked like.

Dozens of Roman mosaics, in the best condition I’ve seen, dazzle with remarkable geometric patterns and symbols. Many have vibrant colors and detail iconic scenes of lore. The Minotaur, the legend of Dionysus, his colonization of India, Achilles, Leda and the swan, and Scylla from The Odyssey all make appearances. My favorite is a hunting scene in the house, with a dog used to hunt by the looks of it.

I make my way across a ruined Christian temple and towards the ancient agora. Little remains of this massive complex except a theater and neighboring house of healing (purpose debated). The view from up top is grand. There is a lot of natural vegetation, incorporated in the formation of the archeological park, as this is critical habitat for migratory birds.

My last stop is the temple of Apollo or underground passageways of Phoenicians. I almost miss it, but I happen to stumble upon one of the entrances. I go down expecting to get lost, but somehow the maze of tunnels seems more organized.

The caves are more like tombs, and some have very small niches and grooves. A lot of the rooms are more cozy, and there is less mess than the tunnels outside the park. I explore this amazing remnant of history, pondering its purpose, until my stomach urges me to check in to my hotel.

Tirana & Shkodër

Posted on November 8 by krauss-ingtheworld

I am not sure what I was expecting in Albania’s capital. The modern architecture is quite unique in Tirana. It has a lot of rainbows and color for such a homophobic country, which I quickly discover. It’s isolation and communist dictatorship has left a patriarchal and traditional culture, despite not being religious. The lack of theocracy allows both Islam and Christian groups to practice in an otherwise secular society. I hear a call to prayer at the mosque for the Islam practitioners.

The central mosque is stunning, as is the clock tower at its side. There are several large impressive government buildings, all built by the Italians in their style during occupation. The dictator’s house is rather humble surprisingly, surrounded by communist dormitories in the communist block. I could have stayed in one, but for 10 dollars more I just got a nice apartment in the city center.

I scarf down the best falafel of my life at Opa’s greek. I only eat here despite all the restaurants in Tirana because it is close, quick and I am ravenous. I’m not a food blogger, but the falafel is so creamy and topped with red peppers and a green sauce that is divine.

There isn’t much open at the time of my visit, and the main pyramid and bunker museum is closed. I leave with little interest in going to museums, feeling burnt out from seeing so many artifacts the last few weeks. Instead, I walk around the lake and forest enjoying the waterfowl, and I even spot some new birds.

No matter how hard I try I just cannot remember how to pronounce Shkodër. Surrounded by beautiful wetlands and protected areas, mountains and a lake, I miss all of it. There is an early morning shuttle to the Albanian alps, but the forecast calls for rain, and three hours in a shuttle on a windy road seems not so worthwhile to me.

I instead take my time to wander around the old town. It is very quaint; stone paths and small restaurants line the several blocks of the city center. I have some delicious Italian food—beet risotto with grilled vegetables on the side—for half the price of Italy, and just as tasty. Maybe I just hadn’t eaten vegetables in so long? There is even a cute kitten at the restaurant entrance to greet me.

There are several mosques and monuments around the center, but I have to leave on the first bus to Montenegro. I actually get to the station to ask the departure schedules for the day just as the bus to Podgorica is leaving. Luckily, there is one to Ulcinj, and it turns out this town is much better to stay in than the Montenegrin capital apparently.

So I leave Albania, without a visit to the lake or fortress, though I do get to see it again as I pass by in the shuttle. At this point, I’m not mourning the missed opportunity of seeing yet another Venetian fortress. But the surrounding nature reserves seem really nice.

I don’t see any dragons, but overall I enjoy my time passing through Albania. The beaches I visit are beautiful, the ruins and towns full of well-preserved history, and the mountains look spectacular.

Berat

Posted on November 2 by krauss-ingtheworld

The coast disappears into the mountains. Rolling into the foothills of Berat is like a fantasy. The clouds cover the peak of mountains in the backdrop above a uniformly designed town. It is uniquely Ottoman, with distinct brown shutters and roof. There are several mosques scattered around the town, through which there is a main walkway along the river filled with restaurants. I have a crepe kebab (a crepe with chicken) and hike up the steep alleyways of the town.

I reach the fortress at the top, less a castle and more a fortified city. It is amazing walking along the ruins and watching the sunset over the town. The clouds burn red as I climb the remaining fortress walls, striving for a better view.

It is dark by the time I make it to the top. I return in the morning to wander the fortress and crumbling ruins of the mosque. The small city with its steep streets are full of elderly residents. They must stay fit.

Something I discover following the signs to cistern is an old Byzantine cistern. I walk down steps to what seems like a hut, but the steps drop off into a pool of water. The old chamber has a bit of light shining through the top. I definitely can imagine a sewer monster living in here.

I enjoy wandering through the old Christian quarter although it is heavily under construction. There is a great view of the old town under the fortress from here. I return as well to continue exploring the unique architecture and streets only to find much of it is under construction too! The mosque has beautiful murals and I even witness a call to prayer. It seems more people practice Islam here, as I pass by several people wearing hijabs. Most of the people have darker features as well.

There are some interesting streets where the stairs fold off into rock and narrow passageways that leave me feeling claustrophobic. Others have arches of vines and potted plants giving a nice vibe.

I enjoy wandering around this town very much!

Ioannina

Posted on September 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

On an impulse after departing the lovely mountains of Meteora and driving through the mountainous villages, I stay the afternoon in Ioannina.

Attracted by the lake with a mountain backdrop, I linger only so much as to walk around the circumference of the old fortress walls. I do some light photography of the waterfowl and monastic island in the lake. The monasteries there are the former refuge of the orthodox monks before they arrived at Meteora. It piques my interest, but I’m more impressed by the walls encircling the historic town.

I wander through the halls as I am transported back to the Byzantine empire—and Ottoman-era refurbishments that restored these walls and buildings. Notable buildings are the grand mosques, built over even older churches, and remaining structures including towers. A particularly notable one is called Its Kale!

I go in a mosque, and to my surprise there are Jewish artifacts from the historic communities dating back to the establishment of Ioannina. Jewish Greek life extends to the 3rd centry BCE, and their descendents have unique clothing and ketubahs, a Jewish marriage contract. Silver work, characteristic of the region, binds together the scroll of Esther. Inside the interior of the mosque there is beautiful islamic architecture and mother of pearl inlaid on walnut furniture.

The streets of old town are cobbled and filled with pastel houses and plazas. The old synagogue is still standing and in use. The newer area outside the walls is full of bars and lively restaurants and has a certain charm. The city lines the lake and has lots of green space and forests to compliment the development.

I am quite happy with my break in Ioannina, though I am careful to depart at sunset because I have a ferry to catch!

Thessaloniki

Posted on September 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

When I saw a $20 flight to Thessaloniki from Zagreb, I booked it impulsively, knowing I wanted to return to Greece. I was sad I didn’t finish traveling through Croatia, and I was coming to regret it, but immediately I was impressed with the Macedonian city.

The area has plenty of restaurants and bars to offer along the main promenade. There are Roman ruins scattered throughout this area alongside Ottoman structures and Byzantine era churches. A large white tower stands along the coast, remnants from its time as the second largest city of the Byzantine empire.

I have a delicious Greek groat mediterranean bowl for 2 euros before hiking up the hill. It is called the Acropolis, but the remains are of a Roman fortress that became a Byzantine wall to defend the city from Turkish invaders. The sunset view above the ocean is beautiful with the historic walls as a backdrop.

I wind carefully down through the old town at the foot of the castle, cobblestone hills and vines and other greenery lining the characteristic Greek houses. At the bottom, large villas and palaces make up the cityscape, some sporting Turkish decor.

There is a bustling marketplace and central plaza around Roman ruins that inspire a little window shopping. I return in the morning to the rotunda to see the early Christian murals along the ceiling on the inside and a museum about Christians that fled here in the early 19th century.

I also take advantage of the holiday to see the museum for free, with a beautiful overview of ancient Macedonia through the empire and Roman succession. There is ornate pottery, burial gold craftwork, and intact tools from everyday life.

Today is “Ohi” day, or “No” day, in commemoration of the day the Greeks stood against Nazi invaders during WWII. They ultimately lost, but they are proud that they resisted. Different branches of the military in their fun uniforms walk past me towards a parade that is gathering, with hundreds of people beginning to form a crowd. I quickly escape from the hullabaloo to collect my luggage and head for the train station for my next destination.

My train passes by Mount Olympus, mythic home of the Greek gods, surrounded by a swirling cloud.