Caves | Krauss-ing The World

Edge of the EU

Posted on February 6 by krauss-ingtheworld

At first light, after stocking up on pastries for the day, I begin hiking along the coast. The beaches are sandy, the water looks beautiful, and palm trees line the path. Just a bit further along the coastline becomes rocky like a lunar desert, the sun gets hot and my shoes get torn up by the sharp rocks. I persevere through to see the unique rock formations, caves and natural bridges along the coast. I finally make it to a row of sea caves. I climb down inside one, but I don’t risk the rough waters (besides, the sea is too cold for me). I do wade a bit in a rocky lagoon; the water is crystal clear without the brown sandy beaches underneath.

I follow a path through the rocky landscape to the start of a nature trail along the side of a large cliff. It is spectacular for birding, and I see a giant lizard on a rock too. I don’t get too close to the water here, but I can see caverns and canyons from a distance. I go up to the viewpoint for a look at Cape Greco, the easternmost point of the EU, and a great view back from where I hiked. It is tricky to get back down, and I’m tempted to keep circling around the cliff-face with the trail offering fantastic views and a sea breeze. But I continue on towards Cape Greco.

I cross Cape Greco to a particularly blue lagoon, which is only so blue because it is so rocky!

There is a cave just a bit further up the coast and a small church where I rehydrate and even get an oreo ice cream. Hiking along the protected forest trail, looking out over the rocky coastline to see a beautiful beach bay—all while licking an ice cream—has to be my favorite way to hike.

I continue down to the beach and back up along the trail over some more turquoise bays until I reach the “cyclops cave”. This cool cave has nothing to do with The Odyssey, but it’s cool how it connects through the cliff and comes out the other side. At this point, I turn around and take the bus back, watching the sun set over the sea behind the clouds.

In the morning I hike the opposite direction to the beautiful Nissi beach. It rains on and off, and I have to pass through a sandy gulf to continue the path, but it is beautiful when I arrive. The sandy beach and water, even when overcast, still glows turquoise. The little island off the coast is nice too. I find the sand is warmest at the place where the water hits the shore. I dip my feet in the water—and to my surprise the water is warmer than the outside temperature. I warm my feet a little before I walk back under the cover of clouds. Ironically, the sun comes out right as I return only to sit and wait an hour for the bus to my final destination in Cyprus.

Meteora

Posted on September 16 by krauss-ingtheworld

My jaw drops when the most unique rocks and cliffs greet me as I pull into the train station near Meteora.

Walking up into the hills of Meteora, the spiritual music blasting from the village below really sets the mood. Gregorian chanting sounds echo through the valley. I hear gun shots as well, perhaps a firing in honor of Ohi day.

I miss most of the sunset, but I get an introduction to the area and familiarized with the path up to the monasteries.

The steep hike up is a struggle the next day with sore legs, but I shake it off as I return up to see the monastery alone on a mountain peak.

The monastery art is very impressive and elaborate. I like the Byzantine style! They kept it because they are orthodox, while the rest of Catholicism went excessive and Boroque, guady in decor. Yet it is still pretty elaborate in my opinion, and gilded with gold. There are many intricate designs on display at some of the museums in the larger monasteries.

At the top there are really amazing vistas. It is free to visit, at least for residents, which I passed for. The next monastery I visit has an elaborate garden out back.

I hike around some of the outcrops for some more great views, but the very steep cliffs slope a little towards a sheer drop– it’s very scary! I try not to get too close and don’t go hiking very far.

I walk to the next monastery along the road, which is not so fun. The next monastery is my favorite. It has great views and a wheel that they use as a level pulley cart, sending and receiving supplies from the road.

There are several viewpoints sticking out that are great for watching the sunset and taking pictures in the afternoon sun. I think to myself it would be better in the morning. I come back the next day with a shortcut, although I get a little lost among the olive trees. I take many pictures in the morning light.

I visit the last temple I have time for at Varlaan. It is larger and has some nice museum exhibits, but I’m rushed out. I come back the next day to finish and I’m glad I do—it informs on the whole history of the temples and explains how they are built by persecuted monks, who came as refugees. Most of the art in the churches details their persecutions and it looks pretty gory. There are some depictions of demons and dragons that look pretty cool too!

At night I go up with a local to a viewpoint, enjoying a gyro and taking in the cliffs at night. One of the cliff faces looks a Spartan helmet.

The grand monastery is the biggest and has nice courtyards, and of course great views from the balcony. The road leading up to it is my favorite spot for golden hour, and I take lots of photos of the monastery on the cliff. There is a nice trail down from here in the shade and cobblestones. It is fun walking in the historic trails, and there are more intimate views with some of the rock formations here.

I visit the last temple which has views of a different side of the rocks I hadn’t seen yet,and some new pillars. Caves where monks lived in the cliff side are visible here as well. This monastery is humble, but has a great rooftop balcony. Ruins of the monasteries that didn’t survive can be seen on nearby peaks.

I still have time, so I wander around the charming town of Kastraki, which has a nice plaza at the center and interesting art shops. There is a historic area on the hilltop, and I continue hiking past here up the side of a rock column. There is a church embedded in the rock, but the nice part is a climb up a steep slope and a ladder to get to a flat rock face. I watch the sun dip below the mountains and ring a church bell to mark the occasion.

Petra

Posted on March 22, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

The desert goes flat, then all of a sudden twisting mountains appear in the backdrop. Within them are the canyons of Petra, the ancient capital of the Nebetian kingdom. There is a modern town called Petra just outside the entrance with a beautiful overlook.

I go with the group down the twisting caverns past inscriptions and temple facades. Waterways are carved into the narrow canyon and I feel dizzy going back and forth along the winding path.

Ancient waterways at the bottom of the photo

I get a glimpse of the temple through the cavern and am immediately in awe. Going to the front truly impresses; the ornate columns originally designed by Nebataeans were built upon by Romans and muslims over the centuries. After a walk up to a great viewpoint of “the treasury,” (the true function of the temple is unknown, but hoards of treasure were found inside) I continue along to see even more doorways carved into the caves. There is a whole complex of tombs!

“The Treasury”

A Roman style amphitheater, but it was built by the Nebataeans. It looks the same to me!

I explore the tombs and am in love with the pattern of the rocky ceilings. Mesmerizing swirls of blue, red, and yellow rock mix and dance with the carved features. I hike along visiting almost every one, looking out onto the monastery in the distance.

It smells bad inside, like piss and shit of various animals that are probably kept inside. However, it still feels mystical, especially in the rare good smelling one that burns incense. I reunite with Natalia, my travel companion, and wander back up through the canyon, on horseback for the last part like Indiana jones, and spend one last meal with our friends.

Salzburg

Posted on February 16, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

At first I am disappointed by how modern everything seems walking in the historic center. The only point of interest is a monastery and a palace, with a beautifully manicured garden. Then I cross the river and am transported back in time to Mozart’s Salzburg. Everything is Mozart this and Ammadeus that, for he is born here, and his birth home is monumentalized.

The town itself is more illustrious than Innsbruck, but also has its share of old monasteries and churches. I walk up to an old 11th century fortress on the hill, offering a surprisingly well preserved castle and stellar views of the surrounding hills.

I watch the sunset through the thick clouds and continue wandering the romantic streets and navigate the tunnels through the hillside. Arcades, or covered passageways that wind through streets with shops and restaurants, display clothing and jewelry. Some even have art. I am impressed by this blend of history with the modern.

I return the following morning, in beautiful weather, and Sunday markets are popping up all over selling local foods and crafts. I take one last lap around the city before heading out to see the Von Trap houses (film sets of Sound of Muisc). They are a bit of a walk from the city center, but it’s beautiful strolling around a lake and through the park. I even get a glimpse of the gazebo featured in “Sixteen going on Seventeen” near where I catch the bus, but it is being photographed for wedding photos and I want to make sure I am not late, so I depart with haste.

Amalfi Coast

Posted on January 31, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

The views climbing up Sorrento are spectacular, with Vesuvius, Capri, and several small islands visible along the feet of the cliffs.

I enjoy the scenic road all the way past Positano to Amalfi. This charming town by the sea has a spectacular church and public fountain. Walking through the corridors and stairwells reminds me of Cinque terre.

I take the bus up to Ravello for the amazing view of the mountains and the valley. I enjoy walking around the Moorish ruins of this town, which seems built in and around them.

I walk down hundreds of stairs back to Amalfi, taking in the view and passing several caves along the valleys. There are underground tunnels connecting back to Amalfi so pedestrians don’t have to walk too long on the winding roads with traffic.

I stop for a delicious buffala sandwich, with the best sun dried tomatoes, and explore the town a bit more before hiking. I shelter from the rain in front of the church while eating my sandwich and someone offers me food, which I quickly refuse and try to explain I don’t need it, but he takes off. I guess 2 1/2 weeks without shaving makes me look homeless.

The bus up to the trailhead in Bromino passes a nice valley, and the sun begins to shine on the turquoise waters. I start the Sentiero degli dei (Path of the Gods) past the main square under the large karst cliffs. The views, once I get to them, are backlit by the sun, but it’s still nice. It’s a beautiful trail, and mostly downhill, but it’s not worthy of the name, “Path of the Gods,” I think. I don’t want to say I’m disappointed because it is beautiful, but I think I was expecting too much. While there are many interesting formations, the mountain view from Ravello seems more dynamic, and there are probably nice trails around there as well as Sorrento.

I pass some goats feeding, lots of climbers, and some caves. I approach more lookouts as the sun goes down, and I race down the stairs to make it to Positano for the sunset along the beach. The clouds make for a reddish glow that illuminates the town and surrounding cliffs. Possibly the most picturesque, Positano is quite small and consists mostly of sprawling homes, hotels, and restaurants along the hillside. It’s hard to have a main center when the town is vertical, but there is a charming Main Street down to the beach, decorated by Christmas lights. They even have lights decorating the mountain!

I thoroughly enjoy my hike through the beautiful landscape and brief visits to the charming towns of the Amalfi coast. The culmination of my trip to the region, the Amalfi coast leaves something to be desired, and I hope to return to this area some day in warmer weather to best enjoy the hikes in other scenic parts of the coastline.

Gibraltar

Posted on October 6, 2021 by krauss-ingtheworld

A sheer cliff face rising up out of the sea, Gibraltar seems as if it really was pulled up by a god, or Hercules as it is known in legend.

Moving more to the side through the town, the rock seems more like a sloping hill, lined with erosion gullies and dense olive forests.
At night, the clouds creep around the mountainside like the hand of god, grasping finger-like cirrus clouds around the peaks.

Hiking up to the top, I’m grateful for this cloud cover, but am disappointed at the barely visible Atlas Mountains across the ocean from the Jews Gate. Speaking of which, I pass a surprising number of Jews on my way up the Main Street. There have been Jews on Gibraltar for at least 4 centuries, possibly longer.

A big male macaque passes by me nonchalantly, and a lizard slithers past, but I know there will be more as I make my way up the mountain to get something to eat (shakshuka, a traditional Jewish/North African dish). Sure enough, a baby macaque and mother are grooming each other in a nearby tree. They are a delight to watch, hopping on passing cars and climbing over the ruins of old forts.

Native to the Atlas Mountains, the macaques were brought here over a thousand years ago by the moorish empire. They seem right at home on the hilly landscape. There are all sorts of birds I see; I really enjoy the nature trails of the rock.

I make my way to the clifftop for some beautiful views. As the clouds rise up and obscure the top, I go just a bit lower on the peak to see both the Mediterranean side and the Atlantic Ocean. The view towards the Mediterranean is beautiful, and the hills of Spain shine brightest over the blue ocean harbor.

I make my way down the King’s stairs to a cool suspension bridge—what a drop! I go to the other end of the mountain, coming in and out of some tunnels excavated by war generals for sieges. I get really spooked in the pitch dark and move quickly out into the trail, ending up in the brambles of thick olive scrub.

Finally I make it to the other end, near an old moorish castle that I’ve seen glow red at night. Descending down the castle stairs to the town, I walk through the park and harbor. Gibraltar lacks the charm of Spanish cities, and reminds me of other English colonies with cobblestone streets, but some of the architecture still has a similar Spanish style. It feels like the whole town is a fortress, with old high walls and archways to pass through.

I love seeing the ocean village at night though, with its marine animal and sailing motifs in the tiling and lights decorating the palm trees. Of course, I treat myself to some British fish and chips.
It’s a bit strange here, because mostly people are speaking English, but I hear a lot of Spanish too, and of course, it’s still right near Spain. While it’s like a border town, it somehow still has the gloomy UK weather. And it has its own distinctive bank notes (British pounds) too! What an interesting, culturally confusing experience.

The next day, I visit the Mediterranean side beach, see some partridges, and very clear (but cold) water, mixing with theAtlantic Ocean. I enjoy birdwatching in the park before walking 20 minutes to cross the border back to Spain to continue on to Ronda. It almost seems too easy going back and forth, until my passport is rejected by a border agent. I return with a different identity document, but the agent has disappeared, and my passport seems to work this time.

And so I exit the UK and return to the EU in a matter of minutes. Is Gibraltar a “must-visit” destination? Probably not. But it sure is iconic, and I really appreciated the natural beauty of the rock and its unique history.