clouds | Krauss-ing The World

Edge of the EU

Posted on February 6 by krauss-ingtheworld

At first light, after stocking up on pastries for the day, I begin hiking along the coast. The beaches are sandy, the water looks beautiful, and palm trees line the path. Just a bit further along the coastline becomes rocky like a lunar desert, the sun gets hot and my shoes get torn up by the sharp rocks. I persevere through to see the unique rock formations, caves and natural bridges along the coast. I finally make it to a row of sea caves. I climb down inside one, but I don’t risk the rough waters (besides, the sea is too cold for me). I do wade a bit in a rocky lagoon; the water is crystal clear without the brown sandy beaches underneath.

I follow a path through the rocky landscape to the start of a nature trail along the side of a large cliff. It is spectacular for birding, and I see a giant lizard on a rock too. I don’t get too close to the water here, but I can see caverns and canyons from a distance. I go up to the viewpoint for a look at Cape Greco, the easternmost point of the EU, and a great view back from where I hiked. It is tricky to get back down, and I’m tempted to keep circling around the cliff-face with the trail offering fantastic views and a sea breeze. But I continue on towards Cape Greco.

I cross Cape Greco to a particularly blue lagoon, which is only so blue because it is so rocky!

There is a cave just a bit further up the coast and a small church where I rehydrate and even get an oreo ice cream. Hiking along the protected forest trail, looking out over the rocky coastline to see a beautiful beach bay—all while licking an ice cream—has to be my favorite way to hike.

I continue down to the beach and back up along the trail over some more turquoise bays until I reach the “cyclops cave”. This cool cave has nothing to do with The Odyssey, but it’s cool how it connects through the cliff and comes out the other side. At this point, I turn around and take the bus back, watching the sun set over the sea behind the clouds.

In the morning I hike the opposite direction to the beautiful Nissi beach. It rains on and off, and I have to pass through a sandy gulf to continue the path, but it is beautiful when I arrive. The sandy beach and water, even when overcast, still glows turquoise. The little island off the coast is nice too. I find the sand is warmest at the place where the water hits the shore. I dip my feet in the water—and to my surprise the water is warmer than the outside temperature. I warm my feet a little before I walk back under the cover of clouds. Ironically, the sun comes out right as I return only to sit and wait an hour for the bus to my final destination in Cyprus.

Hallstatt

Posted on February 19, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

I arrive in rainy Hallstatt, two bus transfers later, to briefly explore the charming town on the lake. In the rain, I continue by bus to the next destination—the ice caves.

I ascend by cable car—more affordable than the ones in Switzerland—into the clouds. On this cliffside lay an entrance to a cave.

Inside I join a small tour group to explore this cave—historically inhabited by cave bears and people alike. The unique thing about this cave is the low temperatures which allow the formation of ice. Beautiful natural sculptures fill the interior. There is a spectacle crossing a bridge filled with ice sheets illuminated in different colors and synced with music.

I walk down a short path through some informational exhibits to mammoth cave, named not for the prehistoric beasts, but for its size. There are large expansive rooms here, and it is warmer than the ice cave. I come out and the clouds clear for a moment, revealing a beautiful vista of Hallstatt below.

Remains of a cave bear

I descend and bus back to the town now that the rain has paused. It is cute ambling around the central church and graveyard and classically styled Austrian houses. I pass the main square several times working my way up and down the cobblestone alleys. I hike up a bit for a view before descending down to wait for the last bus back, which I just barely miss.

Central plaza

I bus to the train station instead and have some time to walk around the other side of the lake before the last train out. I make a tight transfer to the last bus back to Salzburg and arrive just in time to watch the Sound of Music at my hostel (and do laundry!). I realize a lot of the scenery is CGI, since the mountains-while beautiful-are not quite that spectacular surrounding Salzburg. It looks more like that around Switzerland.

Obertraun, across the lake from Hallstatt

San Marino

Posted on December 2, 2021 by krauss-ingtheworld

Clouds rest nestled along Tuscan valleys, glistening in the early morning light. A heavy fog sets in before reaching the San Marino hilltop, and a spectacular view is revealed.

I am awestruck by the beauty of the mountains and the clouds, like I am looking down at the world from the heavens above on this castle on a cloud. The whole old city of San Marino is built like a fortress, castle walls surrounding each slope and medieval gates lining the outer walls. Passing through an arch is like stepping through a portal to the medieval ages when they were first constructed. Crossroads exist at every turn, one sloping upwards and another downwards, as I choose my own adventure and go ever-upwards towards the hilltop.

The first tower is beautiful and the only one that can be entered. I walk around the edges surrounding a beautiful garden, offering a spectacular view of the next tower over. This view, with the steep cliff on one side and the sloping hill of the city combined with forest is nothing short of glorious.

Soaking up one of the most beautiful hikes of my life, I meander slowly to the second castle. I turn back and see an equally stunning view of the first castle, pausing to take dozens of photos.

The third castle requires a short hike through the autumn forest and yellow leaves, still wet with the morning mist. This tower is petit, and I realize the San Marino crest of three equal castles, side by side, is misleading. I follow the trail back towards the main town, following some of the alternative paths back to the main square.

I use the most of my tower pass to check out the stamp museum, an interest piqued by my father’s stamp collection. On display are a lot of themes of liberty; it has always been important to be free from other neighboring powers. To this end, San Marino claims to be the oldest republic.

I walk through the rest of the town, which is quite small, and enjoy the gardens by the art museum for a snack. The city is on a hill, so there are lots of cute, charming stairwells scattered throughout the cobblestone alleyways.

I feel like I’m in a medieval renaissance festival with shops offering mulled wine and a special delicacy called torte tre torre, a 4 layered chocolate wafer cake dipped in chocolate. I pair with a glass of Moscato—delicious!

Palazzo Publico-The Public Palace, from where the Republic of San Marino is run

I enjoy seeing all the artifacts from the state San Marino Museum. Settled since prehistoric times, San Marino Neolithic arrowheads sit beside Etruscan pottery. There is a lot of Roman and Greek art as well; I pass the medieval art section quickly as I am over-saturated by this aesthetic in Florence, though I do visit the modern 19th century cathedral on the way out.

Bronze figures from pre-Etruscan society

I watch a breathtaking sunset as the mountains glow and the clouds take on an array of hues, lighting up the castles for one spectacular finale. I run back and forth between the two towers taking photos before enjoying the light display over the clouds and mountains as I make my way back.

San Marino may be one of the smallest countries in the world, but it sure has some of the grandest views!