Colorado

The pronghorn line the hills on the road past unique rock formations. I get excited to photograph my first one, but there are hordes of them, composed of a male with several females.

We drive into the cloud hiding the mountain views of Breckenridge, but we stop for breakfast in Buena Vista and the weather clears. We go for a drive to a lake with beautiful yellow aspen forests and snow-dusted mountains.

The weather clears and we can see the other mountains further down near a hot spring. The pool is closed, but the mountains and river are beautiful.

As rain clouds return, we take a break to dine on delicious bison ravioli and pumpkin soup.

We walk along the river with all the mountains on display but they are quickly obscured by rain clouds. We hurry back and head home with more spectacular sights along the way.

***

The impending storm does not look promising. Pikes peak, the closest mountain, is shrouded in clouds. The ranger says it’s only half open, so my friend and I drive out to Garden of the Gods.

These red rock formations are something else. The tall, skinny towers jut out, the sturdiest of the soft Morrison formation that’s been weathered away. Mountain sheep pose stoically on a ridge top. They appear so wise, seemingly staring at the view and chewing cud.

We take off for the paint mine—an area of multi colored clay. Pink, orange and white spatter the quarry, which has been used by indigenous peoples for thousands of years to paint and make pottery and just enjoy. We too enjoy navigating the pink caverns, tracing orange and white walls with multi colored hoodoos to mark the path. It looks fantastic as the sun comes out showing off the bright colors.

We trek back to Denver to see red rock amphitheater, a horseshoe-shaped giant rock formation used as a concert space. They sure are impressive!

Across is dinosaur ridge, where bones and treks are imprinted into the multicolored stone faces. A unique erosion ball is here too. A rare velociraptor trek (one of a dozen worldwide) is revealed. Ripples from the paleo-tropical beaches make waves on the rock. But the highlight is a massive wall covered in tracks from Hadrosaur (duck bill dinosaur) and ornithomimids (small faster omnivore). There are crocodilian prints as well from an ancestral crocodile. It is neat to see how the sizing, spacing and direction of the prints gives insight into dinosaur behavior, such as speed and if they traveled in family groups.

We watch the sunset over red rock amphitheater and have a delicious Indian dinner before the long drive back to my friend’s place.

Boulder

The flatirons jut starkly out from the earth. It is fun learning about the geology on a hike with UC Boulder scientists. They explain how the plates rise at a 50 degree angle and became smooth through erosion with water over time.

The phone rings as I enter the Boulder Natural History Museum. It’s Michael Mann, renowned climate scientist, and I missed his call because of time difference. I find a quiet corner for the interview and it goes well. Mike is chatty so I only ask a few questions further discussing his keynote talk that morning.

I get to peak behind the scenes at the archeology of bison and horses in Colorado. We journey even further back in time with fossils of dinosaurs and ancient invertebrates like sea sponges and insects.

Afterwards I get to share local craft beer with radio producers, hosts and learn more about podcasting. Editors from HHMI tangled banks studios host a special reception as part of the Science Writers 2023 conference in Boulder, Colorado.

The final day of the conference I get to visit the Boulder mountain research station. We learn about the research spanning climate change to pikas, a cute rabbit relative that cannot survive in the alpine environments past 78 degrees. There are bee houses for native solitary bees, grasshoppers, many chittering red squirrels and yellow aspens & green pines. The view isn’t bad either.

I reunite with my friend and take off for Rocky Mountain National Park. The timed entry ticket expires 20 minutes before we arrive, but the park service lets us in with a knowing smile.

The views from the parking lot are already beautiful with several sharp, snow capped mountain peaks. Going up the paved road, we pass several lakes that reflect them. The yellow aspen leaves fall as chipmunks and jays fly by. I start to feel the altitude as we ascend, but the sun comes out and I am motivated to get to the trail end.

Lake Haiyaha, sacred space to the Ute people, has an emerald hue. The color change is a result of a landslide in 2021 that added glacial silt to the water, causing it to reflect emerald. It is not turquoise like in photos, but it is still beautiful beneath the mountains.

I develop a headache and quickly lose my appetite (though the breakfast burrito I get from Torchy’s Tacos doesn’t help). We head back down the mountain, passing bear lake as the sun sets. I don’t feel better until we are back in Boulder, although drinking pho soup broth helps.

We drive out to my friend’s house, where the stars are clear and elk line the roads near a fossil monument.