Roman | Krauss-ing The World

Paphos

Posted on January 1 by krauss-ingtheworld

It is great to be in the warm sun again! I shed my layers and walk around with my luggage along the Cyprus coastline to embrace the warm wind. I notice tunnels along an ancient wall above the coastal walk. After dropping off my luggage I return to investigate.

There are tunnels all throughout the hillside like a labyrinth. I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider as I duck inside the narrow passageways, climbing into a larger chamber, then navigating to the other caves. There is a large central entrance that branches off in dozens of directions. It is a maze; I’m certain I explore it all, but who knows? It is really remarkable, and I seem to be the only one inside for the moment. There is a Roman mural too and what looks like an old stadium of some kind.

Curious, I check out the archeological park. To my surprise, there are dozens of ancient Roman villa remains from the Hellenistic period. There are so many remaining pillars, columns and foundations of the buildings still intact. Others are left behind swept to the side, making for a perfect picnic spot as I gaze off to the sea and contemplate what the palace must have looked like.

Dozens of Roman mosaics, in the best condition I’ve seen, dazzle with remarkable geometric patterns and symbols. Many have vibrant colors and detail iconic scenes of lore. The Minotaur, the legend of Dionysus, his colonization of India, Achilles, Leda and the swan, and Scylla from The Odyssey all make appearances. My favorite is a hunting scene in the house, with a dog used to hunt by the looks of it.

I make my way across a ruined Christian temple and towards the ancient agora. Little remains of this massive complex except a theater and neighboring house of healing (purpose debated). The view from up top is grand. There is a lot of natural vegetation, incorporated in the formation of the archeological park, as this is critical habitat for migratory birds.

My last stop is the temple of Apollo or underground passageways of Phoenicians. I almost miss it, but I happen to stumble upon one of the entrances. I go down expecting to get lost, but somehow the maze of tunnels seems more organized.

The caves are more like tombs, and some have very small niches and grooves. A lot of the rooms are more cozy, and there is less mess than the tunnels outside the park. I explore this amazing remnant of history, pondering its purpose, until my stomach urges me to check in to my hotel.

Split

Posted on December 19 by krauss-ingtheworld

The drive along the Dalmatian islands to Split is breathtaking. The views of the mountains inland with the clouds hanging over them is magical.

I like the busyness of the Croatian city intertwined with the large historic area. The neighborhood I’m in is quaint, with old huts and a network of alleys forming a maze. I get very lost and hit lots of dead ends as I hear a sermon playing in the church with a choir singing.

I love all of the green spaces around the city. I hike up the hill in the evening to watch the barely existent sunset through the forest. The view of the islands and town is grand, and it is nice to be in nature after seeing so much of it from the bus.

The old town is actually quite small, consisting of palace remains. It is a Roman complex built by one of the last Roman emperors, Diocletian, who fled here as refugee. I happen to bump into a marvelous temple of Jupiter, complete with an Egyptian sphinx. I peer through the keyhole to see a giant bronze statue of Zeus. Diocletian’s palace became converted into a towering cathedral, but the Roman architectural style remains.

Temple of Jupiter

Cathedral bell tower

Diocletian’s palace

Many Romanesque buildings and churches decorate the rest of the city. Gothic archways, crests of prominent families, and religious imagery are everywhere. A giant bronze statue of a priest stands next to a church tower and main palace entrance.

There are many market stalls outside the city walls and I have the best cevapi with cheese and red pepper spread, a traditional Croatian street food.

Underneath the Roman palace is a subterranean complex of tunnels, necessary to stabilize the palace in the challenging topography of the Croatian coastline. It is fascinating and contains fragments of the palace and explanations of what it would have looked like when it was built in the 3rd century. Some of the bricks are etched with a menorah, a sign that the builder was Jewish.

The palace is mostly the retirement home of megalomaniac and former Roman emperor Diocletian. He pillaged pillars from existing temples (note the purple Egyptian marble pillars below) and stole 12 Egyptian sphinxes. They are also further repurposed further in the cathedral and tower.

Budva

Posted on November 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

The Montenegro coastline is jaw dropping with mountains and islands in the blue Adriatic. Passing all the scenic towns and the fancy resort island of Sveti Stefan, I see the town of Budva on the coastline.

It is a very nice city with brick streets and lots of palm trees and greenery. I wander past the Roman and Greek necropolis, which has become a playground for a local family. I enter the old city walls only to be pleasantly surprised. Vines changing red with autumn hang artistically across the old buildings. Roman and early Christian ruins are scattered throughout like art decor.

This old city lays flat along the coastline, but still has all the charm of the alleys; it feels more cozy than claustrophobic with many tourist shops, bars, and restaurants. A citadel and church lie at one end, while a tunnel leads out to the beach at the other. The view is stunning as golden hour sets in and sets the fortress aglow.

I see the rocky coastline has a trail cutting through, and continue on to see the highly folded rocks. These crumbling ridges have nets and wire to prevent rockfall, though warning signs mark the path. The folds are mesmerizing and lead to little divets or caves along the beach. I cross one cave that is quickly filling with water to find a beach tucked away. A half dozen kittens live in the holes beneath a bar and come out to beg. They crawl all over me as I take pictures, and it seems someone has left a plate of food for them. Unable to proceed further, I turn back to town.

I walk back along the coastline to watch the sunset from a pier jutting out towards the end of town. These beaches are not as clear as the others, probably due to pollution from all the boats. I can still see the sea floor, littered with trash. A man casually kicks a plastic bottle cap into the sea.

I get a gyro—finally at a familiar price—and I visit a museum that’s still open. Wandering around the old town is nice at night, but I get hopelessly lost. The museum contains the artifacts from the Roman & Greek mortuary and lots of other tools and pottery from the period. Some pots are just beautiful, while others seem rather worn with time. There is gold jewelry with proto-Greek designs featuring nature patterns.

On my last sunny day I enjoy the sunrise on my balcony before taking off towards the mountains of Kotor.

Ulcinj

Posted on November 9 by krauss-ingtheworld

Arriving in Montenegro is seamless, and the bus driver takes care of the entry visa procedures. The mountains follow all the way to the coastline where I arrive in Ulcinj.

After following the wrong address of my last minute booking, I go to the location on the map and check in to my budget apartment. I explore the main Ulcinj drag and get an Italian sandwich—delectable as ever and still cheap. As I walk up to the fortress, boys on bicycles pass and make an ugly face at me sticking their tongue out, but I’m navigating on my phone and pretend not to notice.

The fortress is just protective walls, but there is a whole city inside. The citadel is in ruins and houses artifacts dating back to old Illyria, the civilization from before the Romans conquered this area. There are mostly gothic columns and arches that remain along the old walls and cobblestone paths.

I see dozens of cats that are well cared for. I make my way down the hill, and sometimes back up again, navigating the old alleys. I get lost quite a bit, but I manage to find my way back each time to the beautiful coastal view. Climbing down the steps to the pier, I find just rocks and no beach.

To get to a real beach, I have to go back up and out the exit of the fortress to hike along the coast for an hour. This stretch of forest is mostly pine and shrub but provides enough shade from the hot sun. There are views of the clear turquoise sea the whole way—my favorite kind of hike! The path is straightforward, and I am careful to not go along the steep edge that plummets to the sea.

At last I reach the beach, but it is nearly sunset. The water is too cold for me, and the sand mostly brown, but it is nice to walk along the stretch a bit before heading back to the road. I am harassed by security along the road I cut through. Apparently it is a resort, and they are not happy about me taking the back entrance in. I don’t understand the Montenegrin, but enough that I pick up on the situation. I hurriedly head back, stopping only for a pizza.

The true highlight is in the morning when I check out the salt lakes. Though I know enough about salt flats at this point, the flooded marshes remain hotspots for bird diversity. I see many species of herons and seagulls. Marsh songbirds flit about among the bushes and the morning light shines bright on the mountains in the background.

I finally reach the lake, my destination, in hopes of seeing a couple flamingoes. Not only do I spy some flamingoes, but I see dozens of them, pink specks in the distance. I get so excited when I see the signature curved neck, I say “wow” to myself with no one around. I immediately start photographing and video only to realize I’m on my last camera battery (well, I knew this already, but I forgot to charge the night before). I have to turn back, anyways but only just before my battery dies. The flamingoes quickly move away, wary of me as a predator, but not before I get some pictures and video of them walking in a procession across the lake. Wetland conservation is so important for not just the birds, but for flood control to protect coastal communities like Ulcinj. Wetlands also store carbon, which is critical to address climate change.

Petra

Posted on March 22, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

The desert goes flat, then all of a sudden twisting mountains appear in the backdrop. Within them are the canyons of Petra, the ancient capital of the Nebetian kingdom. There is a modern town called Petra just outside the entrance with a beautiful overlook.

I go with the group down the twisting caverns past inscriptions and temple facades. Waterways are carved into the narrow canyon and I feel dizzy going back and forth along the winding path.

Ancient waterways at the bottom of the photo

I get a glimpse of the temple through the cavern and am immediately in awe. Going to the front truly impresses; the ornate columns originally designed by Nebataeans were built upon by Romans and muslims over the centuries. After a walk up to a great viewpoint of “the treasury,” (the true function of the temple is unknown, but hoards of treasure were found inside) I continue along to see even more doorways carved into the caves. There is a whole complex of tombs!

“The Treasury”

A Roman style amphitheater, but it was built by the Nebataeans. It looks the same to me!

I explore the tombs and am in love with the pattern of the rocky ceilings. Mesmerizing swirls of blue, red, and yellow rock mix and dance with the carved features. I hike along visiting almost every one, looking out onto the monastery in the distance.

It smells bad inside, like piss and shit of various animals that are probably kept inside. However, it still feels mystical, especially in the rare good smelling one that burns incense. I reunite with Natalia, my travel companion, and wander back up through the canyon, on horseback for the last part like Indiana jones, and spend one last meal with our friends.

Verona

Posted on February 11, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

In fair Verona where we lay our scene. Ah—the city of Romeo & Juliet. The Shakespearean tale drove countless tourists to the city over the centuries, allowing the city to preserve its most charming medieval character and even Roman ruins.

The streets are classic Italy, walls colored with murals and a striking style of architecture vaguely reminiscent of Venice. Just wandering the streets of the old town is a delight, trying local sfaggio pastries and gelato.

The first monument at the entrance to the historic city, past the stylish portal, is the arena. A Roman colosseum partially destroyed, it has been reconstructed and hosts opera performances. If it wasn’t so rainy I would love to see one! I love wandering each and every alley, and though it is connected, many sections are blocked off to restrict movement. They are setting up for an opera performance, and the grand opening for actors to pass through is closed. There is a subterranean level that reminds me of the tunnels of the colosseum in Rome. It is similar in style, just on a smaller scale.

Wandering around the city through the central plaza I pass markets and crowds through a medieval castle. Many cute churches line the way as well. I make my way down to the old castle and cross its characteristic bridge to the other side. I pass the crumbling Franz Joseph Arsenal and return to the historic center to find Juliet’s house.

The balcony is fake, although the medieval house belonging to the De Capello family is very rare. It’s possible they did have a feud with the Montecchio clan, but this story came from a poem. The idea of lovers from rival families dates back to Greek myths, but Verona is selling the story as true. Props and costumes from the Romeo and Juliet movie are inside the house and the Letters to Juliet wall has since been removed.

I continue on to the Duomo, or main cathedral, and cross the bridge to go up to the Roman amphitheater ruins. On top of many steps is a villa/community center and a great view of the sunset. The incoming storm gets me wet, but it is dramatic overlooking all the towers of the city. The lights come on as I quickly find a place to eat along the river, opting for a horse meat stew gnocchi (a tradition since medieval times). It is divine, and the gnocchi hand made. I treat myself to a hotel because I realize I left my backpack and tent inside the arena, which is closed. I book a last minute hotel that is high-tech luxury, which even has a complimentary Corona.

Pompei

Posted on January 26, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I thought Rome was amazing with its sporadic ruins woven throughout the city. Now imagine my delight to see a whole village!
Though heavily restored, the ash from Vesuvius, towering in the background, preserved much of the infrastructure as well as many amazing frescoes and features. I gasp and catch myself saying “wow” out of awe so many times exploring the frescoes in the houses of the wealthy merchants, featuring mosaic tiles decorating the floors.

The village is huge, accommodating 20,000 people, and I get lost many times. I start out at the amphitheater, find myself in the main theater, and then finally I stumble upon the forum to start the Rick Steves Audio tour (not a sponsor). It is awesome seeing the temple remnants and many bronze statues as well.

The columns still stand, the brick structure remaining with a marble veneer rubbed away (not all columns used expensive marble)

Some casts of bodies found of the 2000 who died during the eruption are on display. It is a bit morbid, but the houses are more of a celebration of their lives.

The deep grooves are from chariot wheels eroding the road over the centuries

Many roads have bumps to cross the street easier when wet. The brothel is even open for a tour, displaying mosaics of different sex positions, perhaps suggestions for different service offerings. Warning: Not safe for work!

Thermopolium is an eating area where dishes would be kept in the holes

The house of mystery is awesome.

So is the last house I tour, the House of Cryptoporticus. I go up two stories through an underground crypt with mosaics of the Iliad. Having Greek art was seen as classy, and most of the frescoes I see around the patios display Greek themes.

***

Nearby Herculaneum, preserved in mud, features what feels like more of the same buildings. Because of the different mechanism of preservation, wood and other organic material is preserved, which can be seen as door and bed frames.

There are some beautiful mosaics, preserved bath houses, and giant villas; Herculaneum was much wealthier than middle-class Pompei. I enjoy being able to visit the whole thing in 4 hours, including a museum with a poorly timed boat passing by Vesuvius at the time of eruption. The hull is intact, and many beautiful jewelry pieces were found aboard, including these snake bangles. I’m impressed by the details on all the jewelry as well.

Malta Underground

Posted on January 19, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I squeeze through the small opening carved in rock into the crypt. Surrounding me on three sides are tombs carved into the quarried rock. These catacombs have been used from Carthage to Rome and beyond.

While most are Christian, with crosses, fish and other carvings, some are pagan and a few are Jewish. Menorahs are etched into the walls marking the entrance, and several have some kind of inscriptions. These are usually quadruple tombs, as if for a whole family.

Many have large circular tables, meant for a meal prepared by the deceased family, which is a pagan ritual. Family would recline on the table with one elbow to eat, and offer the leftovers to the deceased.

Table
Cross-shaped window

It smells of must, almost as if there are still bodies down here somewhere. There are bones in some of the crypts, moderately preserved. The rest are in museum collections to be studied—is that how these people wanted to be preserved?

The hypogeum offers even older crypts, with the monuments being from 4000 BCE, continuing excavations underground over the centuries. The first level is meant to be outside, but is covered to protect it from the elements, and has been for centuries. It is really cool seeing these original arches and large boulders, the remains of large monoliths. To protect the site, photography is forbidden, so I found the following images on the internet.

Continuing down the steps, I pass through the entryway into the underground. Red ochre covers the ceilings, and in the next room really well preserved red ochre spirals cover the ceiling. In the dim light, with a torch, it would appear they are moving. In the corner is a niche carved to resonate with deep voices, like an echo chamber.

The next room over has spirals barely visible, but also hexagons covering the ceiling. To me, they look almost like sunlight refracting over the Mediterranean. Red ochre, imported from Sicily, is thought to represent blood, or life. The classic pockmarked hole pattern covers some columns.

I get front row seats to the “holy of Holies” a well preserved arch sculpture carved (not built!) into the rock resembling the other megalithic entrances. This one is also covered by a ceiling of multiple circles stacked over the other, which shows what the other temple’s coverings may have looked like. Someone important was probably buried here.

Holes drop down to the next chamber below, and small doorways are carved into the walls.

The best view is of the next room over, with multiple archways in two layers and some red ochre paintings. Checkered patterns, grey alternating with natural rock, are also on the wall.

The Tarxien temples nearby have little megalithic remains, but there are lots of Bronze Age and Roman additions as well as modern reconstructions. The best part are the designs; bulls carved into the wall, and little images of rams and goats are visible on blocks. Spiral patterns, not disimilar to the cave paintings, are carved into stone. After careful examination, there are many different kinds of spiral designs.

There is the bottom half of a huge statue, with the skirt of the other large figures. Is it a fertility goddess or a warrior? Larger than life —the whole complex would have been massive!

Acropolis

Posted on January 7, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

Climbing up to the Parthenon, I get chills as the monument approaches. Like meeting a celebrity I have watched from afar, the entrance beckons with impressive statues.

Lesser preserved monuments litter the slopes, including the amphitheater, but the true star is at the top. There is so much slippery marble, I wouldn’t be surprised how many Athenians have fallen over the millennia.

The marble steps lead up to the spectacular Parthenon. I should feel humbled, but I feel empowered standing at this temple on top of the hill.

The statues of the Erectheion next door are beautiful as well, supporting the building and its remains.

Erectheion—temple to Athena and Poseidon

The Parthenon is stylistically unique in that it is not symmetrical. The building has some friezes remaining but most are in the museum I check out later at night. They depict the battle of Troy, the fight between Athens & Poseidon for Athens, and the fight with the centaurs. The best preserved ones are on the temple of Athena Nike (victory).

The slopes also have caves and temples around them as well.

It’s charming to walk the wide streets along the agora. Guitarists and bouzouki (similar to a lute) players fill the streets, and Greek style alleys are not far behind. The market streets are cute, but the area gets dodgy really quick. The flea market gives off grungy vibes, and the surrounding area has tons of graffiti and seems run down, especially around the central market and chinatown. The food is delicious; I have lukumades, like fried donuts, filled with feta and drizzled in hot pepper sauce. Not to mention all the phyllo pastries I eat!

Central Plaza
Many Byzantine churches fill the streets of Athens. They are full of gilded paintings and incense

The agora is also beautiful with the temple of Hephaestus. Lots of other ruins are scattered about, including columns of the gymnasium. It is empowering to be here, in the place democracy was born.

The best restored is the stoia (meeting place) of the people, demi, with its beautiful columns. The museum shows a timeline of Greek history, displaying how the art transforms over time. This is expanded in the collection in the Acropolis museum, which is even more extensive. The ancient art seems nearly Egyptian in style and almost cute, while later on becomes more “serious”. I can’t share photos, but check the post on Athens for similar sculptures.

Stoia, restored by Rockefeller
Early Greek art
Classical age pottery

The Roman forum next door is also neat.

I hike up the hill to watch the sunset over the acropolis. I end the day with a mousaka dinner on the steps past the agora, guitarists serenading us. Like in a Greek movie, a classic greek song plays and people shout “Opa” as a glass breaks.

Malaga

Posted on September 24, 2021 by krauss-ingtheworld

Now this is the quintessential part of Spain I was looking for.

I absolutely love that Malaga has their own style and decided as a town to become a cultural capital 20 years ago, though they’ve been settled since Phoenician times. Mines for its salt (MLK in Phoenician—malaka in Arabic, which became Malaga) made the area prosperous, and many artifacts have been found from this period, on display at the free Malaga museum.

I enjoy walking around the plazas and checking out their own style of art nouveau found around the city. The markets and narrow lane ways seem a bit more welcoming and a bit less claustrophobic than Barcelona. Some monument highlights include a Sephardi scholar and an unfinished but still impressive Cathedral built on top of the old mosque.

Solomon Ibn Gabirol, a Jewish scholar from the 11th century

The oldest structure is the Roman amphitheater, built by the romans who took over after the Punic wars with Carthage. This is the first Roman amphitheater I’ve visited. It’s impressive how the archway for actors to enter stage is preserved.

The hallmark is the Alcazaba, the Muslim palace established by the moorish empire after the romans. Beautiful mosaics, designs, and arches mark this impenetrable fortress. It also maintains the nice Islamic tradition of beautiful gardens, and the way the water flows is like magic and helps keep the air cool. Alleys that zig zag up the entrance prevent armies from storming the castle with full force. For the Christians to take over, they had to blockade the tower—they built another castle on top of the hill, with impressive views over the city. I can even see the bullfighting arena below.

The beach is first rate too. The gorgeous Mediterranean water is nearly crystal clear and warm enough to enjoy without hesitation, complete with mountain views in the background. There are some rocky patches, so I take the bus down to El Palo, a fisherman’s village, where the black sandy beaches feel so nice on my feet. Lots of bird feathers and even a surprise sea creature fill these waters. The fisherman cook sardines and other delicacies on open flames, giving a nice bbq smell to the boardwalk, though the fish stench can be overpowering at times. The sardines and a potent fish sauce made from them was actually a huge export of the Roman Empire.

“El dedo” means “the finger” in Spanish. The nicest beaches always seem to be the furthest away!

After thoroughly exploring every street of the old city, I take the time to admire the local foods. I have some bocadillos-1€ sandwiches filled with cheese and ham or chicken. I try a turron, an almond pastry (almonds are also very popular in the region). And, of course, the cheap kebabs.

Antonio banderas even has a house here. He supports the neighborhood with a new performing arts space in the trendy SoHo district, featuring some beautiful street-art. I actually thought the neighborhood to the north, la Merced, is more representative of counterculture, with more social justice oriented street art and messaging, while SoHo seemed more mainstream.

Not a Picasso, but pretty good street art!

Another celebrity from here is of course Pablo Picasso. There is a nice collection donated by his family here, featuring more of his classic styles than the one in Barcelona. I really enjoyed this insight on cubism and appreciated his politico-activism through art.

I’d say Malaga successfully became a cultural city; what do you think?