San Diego

Immediately upon entering the cold, murky water my body goes into shock. I see a dark elongated body flash by underneath me. And then another. I am surrounded by leopard sharks. I swim to where there is more visibility and I get a good look at their pointed faces and dark color patterns. Some are accompanied by remora, fish attaching themselves to their bodies to get a nibble at the crustaceans and other food they dig up in the sand.

I see over a dozen shark pups, but I also see smaller ones too. Maybe they are just younger pups, or different sharks altogether. A skate flashes by, puzzling me with its unique appearance until I realize what it is. Eagle rays fly by in the dozens, as plentiful as the sharks.

The sea lions are so cute playing in the waves along the beach. Young pups bother their seniors, nibbling on tails and coughing up a storm. A large bull male lies on the beach until a raucous eruption of vocalizations at the other end causes him to go in the water. A female suns herself on a rock in the middle of the beach completely asleep. Or so it seems, until some tourists get too close, and she lunges to bite.

Tide pooling is slippery and difficult amongst the algae covered rocks. Green anemones, crabs, hermits, snails and limpets, and barnacles compete for precious real estate in the harsh littoral zone. A guppy flashes by, but I don’t see much other movement.

It is interesting to see life along the coast as the hurricane approaches. Some birds sheek shelter but most still fly around nonchalantly. The sea lions play as usual, and to answer my question of what they do as seas surge, I spy a seal on a rock get buffeted by waves. But it remains like a statue, unperturbed.

It is neat to see ephemeral waterfalls emerge and spill over the cliff side onto the beach. I pass pelicans and oystercatchers and plovers resting beneath me before sheltering the rest of the day from the storm.

The San Diego zoo is amazing. Fortunately the animals aren’t harmed by the storm. It is good to see koalas and Tasmanian devils and all my Australian and lemur friends again. I even see lots of new animals I have never seen before! The bird aviaries are very immersive, and I am very impressed by the quality of the zoo.

We have dinner in San Diego old town, which is essential a Spanish mission. The historic buildings have been well preserved and restored, and the area has a festive atmosphere with local dancers singing and performing. The dinner in the restaurant at the center of the marketplace is divine; I try the best steak of my life cooked in a molcajete, or the traditional mexican volcanic mortar and pestle dish. We check out the surrounding market in what feels like an immersive experience in Mexico (San Diego was historically Mexico, after all.)

Budapest

It is bizarre hearing this east European language in this post-Soviet country. Unlike Russian, Hungarian is an Ural language. The fascist regime remains a police state (I am asked for my mother’s name on arrival!). Smells of chimney cakes and mulled wine fill the air as I walk through the city streets to Margaret’s island. I am blown away by this nature retreat in the middle of the city. In the summer it would be amazing. I encounter new wildlife like jays, woodpeckers and a squirrel. Some fallow deer are kept in a pen along with some waterfowl. 

I explore some Roman ruins nearby, then am interrogated by police getting off the train. Terrified, thinking they are going to force me to give them a bribe, I pretend I don’t speak English, hand them my residence permit, and they let me go. I’m not sure what that’s about. 

I am on the wrong side of the tracks apparently, but I cross it to the beautiful city park. Gorgeous Roman baths are housed in a neoclassical building. There is a contemporary castle as well, and it is pleasant weather to explore. 

Here I try a chocolate strudel with the sweetest cottage cheese I’ve had.

The streets are decorated with some of the most beautiful buildings. Many are neo-baroque, with fancy outlandish decorations. It is fun just walking around seeing them all. Of course, the cream of the crop is the parliament building.

 

Walking along the river as the sun sets, it’s only 3:30! I rush to see the synagogues as it gets dark, and am happy to see them just as beautiful as all the churches around the city.

I have some of the best food of my life, dining on a duck crepe. But this pancake is more like potato, almost tasting like a potato latke, with a chewy dissolve-in-your-mouth texture. The vegetables are of all kinds (some I’ve never had before), but all are delicious. 

I return on New Year’s for the boar stew, tastier than I could have imagined. Tender, complimented by a blueberry sauce, I almost cry of joy. Tasting more like a tender roast beef than pork, I am understanding towards all the hunters who chase after boar over the years. It is good luck, I am told, because boars root forward for mushrooms, reaching forward in the new year!

I celebrate by watching the wild fireworks display that people set off; some even fire on the ground. I have lots of mulled wine to keep warm and am grateful that I am not hit by a stray rocket.

I cross the Danube for the first day of the year although I’m feeling barely alive. 

I walk up the stairs to the simple facade of the duke’s palace. Crossing to the back however reveals a labyrinth of baroque detail. I quite enjoy passing through all the patios and walls.

Medieval turned modern. 

I have a delicious chimney cake cooked over coals for a nice smoky flavor on the outside, subtle cocoa, and soft and doughy on the inside. For my first meal of 2022 I am elated. The village of Buda is very well restored but still has the charming chimneys and style of the rest of the city. United with the side across the river, Pest, makes Buda-pest. 

The fisherman’s bastion are very cool towers, and they offer great views over the city. I walk around their gardens back through the town, resting with some spinach and feta lehmdes. Different then Greek, they have more subtle flavors, but are delicious all the same with crispy bread. 

I muster the strength to go up the hill to the citadel. Though closed for restoration, there are some monuments visible and a beautiful sunset visible through the clouds. The lights switch on and Budapest glows in the night. At 4pm. What a way to ring in the New Year!