Turquoise | Krauss-ing The World

Edge of the EU

Posted on February 6 by krauss-ingtheworld

At first light, after stocking up on pastries for the day, I begin hiking along the coast. The beaches are sandy, the water looks beautiful, and palm trees line the path. Just a bit further along the coastline becomes rocky like a lunar desert, the sun gets hot and my shoes get torn up by the sharp rocks. I persevere through to see the unique rock formations, caves and natural bridges along the coast. I finally make it to a row of sea caves. I climb down inside one, but I don’t risk the rough waters (besides, the sea is too cold for me). I do wade a bit in a rocky lagoon; the water is crystal clear without the brown sandy beaches underneath.

I follow a path through the rocky landscape to the start of a nature trail along the side of a large cliff. It is spectacular for birding, and I see a giant lizard on a rock too. I don’t get too close to the water here, but I can see caverns and canyons from a distance. I go up to the viewpoint for a look at Cape Greco, the easternmost point of the EU, and a great view back from where I hiked. It is tricky to get back down, and I’m tempted to keep circling around the cliff-face with the trail offering fantastic views and a sea breeze. But I continue on towards Cape Greco.

I cross Cape Greco to a particularly blue lagoon, which is only so blue because it is so rocky!

There is a cave just a bit further up the coast and a small church where I rehydrate and even get an oreo ice cream. Hiking along the protected forest trail, looking out over the rocky coastline to see a beautiful beach bay—all while licking an ice cream—has to be my favorite way to hike.

I continue down to the beach and back up along the trail over some more turquoise bays until I reach the “cyclops cave”. This cool cave has nothing to do with The Odyssey, but it’s cool how it connects through the cliff and comes out the other side. At this point, I turn around and take the bus back, watching the sun set over the sea behind the clouds.

In the morning I hike the opposite direction to the beautiful Nissi beach. It rains on and off, and I have to pass through a sandy gulf to continue the path, but it is beautiful when I arrive. The sandy beach and water, even when overcast, still glows turquoise. The little island off the coast is nice too. I find the sand is warmest at the place where the water hits the shore. I dip my feet in the water—and to my surprise the water is warmer than the outside temperature. I warm my feet a little before I walk back under the cover of clouds. Ironically, the sun comes out right as I return only to sit and wait an hour for the bus to my final destination in Cyprus.

Aphrodite’s trail

Posted on January 16 by krauss-ingtheworld

The cult of Aphrodite arose in Cyprus. As Greek civilization expanded to include the island, the goddess Aphrodite became incorporated into the Greek Pantheon. According to mythology, Aphrodite called Cyprus home, so everything is Aphrodite-themed.

The baths of Aphrodite are simply a pond in a tufa wall, trickling water like a waterfall down the hanging moss. The scattered light, shade of the grotto, and sprinkles of water really do create a mythical scene. It is easy to believe a goddess would choose this place to bathe.

I follow in her footsteps up the scenic Aphrodite trail along the coastline overlooking the sea. It turns out I go up the route of Adonis by mistake, steep up through the Juniper trees. It is great how the Akamas National Park is a protected habitat for these endangered endemic trees. There is a small botanical garden labeling common plants, and many have labels along the path as well.

I pass many hunters of rabbits who use dogs to sniff them out. I hear shotgun blasts occasionally as I hike up through the shrubby forest. It is steep, so I take a pause to walk along the road towards a different trail before continuing to the summit.

Can you find the grasshopper camoflauged?

I rejoin the main trail after some off-road navigating and see the beauty of the Sigies (circular) path. The rocks are multi-colored, remnants of glacial movements, and they have beautiful streaks of all colors of the rainbow. Up along this side of the hill I can see out along the coastline—it is turquoise along the rim with several deep blue lagoons and sandy beaches. I will have to come back in summer and go swimming here!

I continue along towards the other side where now I can look at both sides of the sea, but it begins to rain. It is light and does not bother me, and I am grateful for the cloud cover as I go back up towards the summit, returning to Aphrodite’s trail.

It is steep on this side, but less so than the other side, where it is pretty much a vertical drop. Out over the lookout lays the most beautiful coastline I have seen, with so many turquoise rocky bays.

There are not so many beaches, but from above the lagoons look unreal. I get to enjoy the coastline all the way down, as the clouds return to a light sprinkle. I pass a herd of goats on the hillside; some of them nudge a kid along. The baby goats are adorable, and I follow them along the cliffside as long as I can. I am careful to allow the big horned males to cross before I continue down the path.

I get close to the bottom and walk along the lagoons. Here I bump into Anwar, a nice boy from Milan who gives me a lift back to the bus station in , as it is getting dark.

Views from the way down Aphrodite’s trail

Budva

Posted on November 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

The Montenegro coastline is jaw dropping with mountains and islands in the blue Adriatic. Passing all the scenic towns and the fancy resort island of Sveti Stefan, I see the town of Budva on the coastline.

It is a very nice city with brick streets and lots of palm trees and greenery. I wander past the Roman and Greek necropolis, which has become a playground for a local family. I enter the old city walls only to be pleasantly surprised. Vines changing red with autumn hang artistically across the old buildings. Roman and early Christian ruins are scattered throughout like art decor.

This old city lays flat along the coastline, but still has all the charm of the alleys; it feels more cozy than claustrophobic with many tourist shops, bars, and restaurants. A citadel and church lie at one end, while a tunnel leads out to the beach at the other. The view is stunning as golden hour sets in and sets the fortress aglow.

I see the rocky coastline has a trail cutting through, and continue on to see the highly folded rocks. These crumbling ridges have nets and wire to prevent rockfall, though warning signs mark the path. The folds are mesmerizing and lead to little divets or caves along the beach. I cross one cave that is quickly filling with water to find a beach tucked away. A half dozen kittens live in the holes beneath a bar and come out to beg. They crawl all over me as I take pictures, and it seems someone has left a plate of food for them. Unable to proceed further, I turn back to town.

I walk back along the coastline to watch the sunset from a pier jutting out towards the end of town. These beaches are not as clear as the others, probably due to pollution from all the boats. I can still see the sea floor, littered with trash. A man casually kicks a plastic bottle cap into the sea.

I get a gyro—finally at a familiar price—and I visit a museum that’s still open. Wandering around the old town is nice at night, but I get hopelessly lost. The museum contains the artifacts from the Roman & Greek mortuary and lots of other tools and pottery from the period. Some pots are just beautiful, while others seem rather worn with time. There is gold jewelry with proto-Greek designs featuring nature patterns.

On my last sunny day I enjoy the sunrise on my balcony before taking off towards the mountains of Kotor.

Ulcinj

Posted on November 9 by krauss-ingtheworld

Arriving in Montenegro is seamless, and the bus driver takes care of the entry visa procedures. The mountains follow all the way to the coastline where I arrive in Ulcinj.

After following the wrong address of my last minute booking, I go to the location on the map and check in to my budget apartment. I explore the main Ulcinj drag and get an Italian sandwich—delectable as ever and still cheap. As I walk up to the fortress, boys on bicycles pass and make an ugly face at me sticking their tongue out, but I’m navigating on my phone and pretend not to notice.

The fortress is just protective walls, but there is a whole city inside. The citadel is in ruins and houses artifacts dating back to old Illyria, the civilization from before the Romans conquered this area. There are mostly gothic columns and arches that remain along the old walls and cobblestone paths.

I see dozens of cats that are well cared for. I make my way down the hill, and sometimes back up again, navigating the old alleys. I get lost quite a bit, but I manage to find my way back each time to the beautiful coastal view. Climbing down the steps to the pier, I find just rocks and no beach.

To get to a real beach, I have to go back up and out the exit of the fortress to hike along the coast for an hour. This stretch of forest is mostly pine and shrub but provides enough shade from the hot sun. There are views of the clear turquoise sea the whole way—my favorite kind of hike! The path is straightforward, and I am careful to not go along the steep edge that plummets to the sea.

At last I reach the beach, but it is nearly sunset. The water is too cold for me, and the sand mostly brown, but it is nice to walk along the stretch a bit before heading back to the road. I am harassed by security along the road I cut through. Apparently it is a resort, and they are not happy about me taking the back entrance in. I don’t understand the Montenegrin, but enough that I pick up on the situation. I hurriedly head back, stopping only for a pizza.

The true highlight is in the morning when I check out the salt lakes. Though I know enough about salt flats at this point, the flooded marshes remain hotspots for bird diversity. I see many species of herons and seagulls. Marsh songbirds flit about among the bushes and the morning light shines bright on the mountains in the background.

I finally reach the lake, my destination, in hopes of seeing a couple flamingoes. Not only do I spy some flamingoes, but I see dozens of them, pink specks in the distance. I get so excited when I see the signature curved neck, I say “wow” to myself with no one around. I immediately start photographing and video only to realize I’m on my last camera battery (well, I knew this already, but I forgot to charge the night before). I have to turn back, anyways but only just before my battery dies. The flamingoes quickly move away, wary of me as a predator, but not before I get some pictures and video of them walking in a procession across the lake. Wetland conservation is so important for not just the birds, but for flood control to protect coastal communities like Ulcinj. Wetlands also store carbon, which is critical to address climate change.

Benvenuti

Posted on October 25, 2021 by krauss-ingtheworld

“Oh wow I’m in Italy!” I say to myself as I pass the border from France. As far as I can tell, the Italian towns are more along the valleys as opposed to up the hills, though there are plenty of those too.

The first day is a blur because I’m so tired from my overnight bus, but it’s rainy on and off and the streets are so narrow you have to walk in the street, cars are trying to run you over in the streets and on the sidewalks, and it is crowded with tourists.

The good news is the buildings provide some natural shelter from the rain. And there are so many historic buildings everywhere I go; there is a church from the 13th century, a monastery from the 9th, or a renaissance home all on the same street. I shelter from the rain in a 4th century Roman arch, for example.

Ponte Vecchio & Palazzio Vechio (Old Bridge & Palace)

Walking all over town seeing different places, I appreciate the outskirts of the historic center more, covered in street art and interesting train underpasses that are more trendy than sketchy. I really like the Santo Spirito neighborhood, traditionally the Jewish quarter, now home to many bars and restaurants (like some Bolivian empanadas). I try my first aperol spritz here—I’m not a fan. It’s too bitter, and I prefer the sweet strawberry & Prosecco Rossini.

I take a break from apartment hunting and go to the beach on the Mediterranean for the day. After a 2 hour train ride to Castilligionello, we don’t even make it to the beach before we stop to go in the water. Making a picnic with delicious sandwiches, the first I’m not disappointed by (the bakeries are usually a dissapointment compared to France), I enjoy the refreshing and crystal clear water. I can even see the fishes nibbling at my ankles.
So turquoise and blue, the water looks and feels wonderful, and we make it to a white sand beach for a nice sunset.
It’s sad about the nuclear plant, with runoff dumping directly into the ocean.

While most things in Florence are overpriced, I enjoy the kebabs and cheap scoops of gelato. The Amarena (cherry) at one place is so light and fluffy it is almost like mousse. The chocolate is usually so good and has either delicious chocolate chunks or brownie pieces—so creamy! One place even drizzles the raspberry sorbet in chocolate.
The pizza isn’t a disappointment either, while any slice is like a NYC slice, the whole pizza in Italy has excellent cheese, and usually the crust is smoky crisp from the brick oven. I have some trapizzino, with chicken or greens, and rice balls stuffed with meat and cheese at the market.

I find myself free from housing appointments and check out the impressive Jewish museums and synagogue. It’s nice to see Jewish artifacts and a building worthy of acclaim for a change compared to all the (very impressive) churches, especially the Duomo.

The second week goes better—in some ways.
I upgrade to an AirBnB—to my dismay, I sleep worse than in the hostel, and I don’t even have access to a kitchen!
I become a bit depressed as all 5 housing opportunities I have lined up reject me. I can’t help but feel dismayed, and I start watching Netflix and eating excessive amounts of dairy to cope.
Scheduling new visits is getting harder, so I am spending more free time catching up with a friend who just arrived, eating pizza in the trendy Santo Spirito neighborhood where I live. We also adventure up to the Michelangelo Piazza, with a gorgeous view of the Florence skyline and a nice rose garden on the hillside.

On Sunday there is a market and I get an 8 euro sandwich. I have a beer along the canal with a friend, and have some delicious Indian food. I really enjoy this side of the river and hope to find a place to live here soon!

Gibraltar

Posted on October 6, 2021 by krauss-ingtheworld

A sheer cliff face rising up out of the sea, Gibraltar seems as if it really was pulled up by a god, or Hercules as it is known in legend.

Moving more to the side through the town, the rock seems more like a sloping hill, lined with erosion gullies and dense olive forests.
At night, the clouds creep around the mountainside like the hand of god, grasping finger-like cirrus clouds around the peaks.

Hiking up to the top, I’m grateful for this cloud cover, but am disappointed at the barely visible Atlas Mountains across the ocean from the Jews Gate. Speaking of which, I pass a surprising number of Jews on my way up the Main Street. There have been Jews on Gibraltar for at least 4 centuries, possibly longer.

A big male macaque passes by me nonchalantly, and a lizard slithers past, but I know there will be more as I make my way up the mountain to get something to eat (shakshuka, a traditional Jewish/North African dish). Sure enough, a baby macaque and mother are grooming each other in a nearby tree. They are a delight to watch, hopping on passing cars and climbing over the ruins of old forts.

Native to the Atlas Mountains, the macaques were brought here over a thousand years ago by the moorish empire. They seem right at home on the hilly landscape. There are all sorts of birds I see; I really enjoy the nature trails of the rock.

I make my way to the clifftop for some beautiful views. As the clouds rise up and obscure the top, I go just a bit lower on the peak to see both the Mediterranean side and the Atlantic Ocean. The view towards the Mediterranean is beautiful, and the hills of Spain shine brightest over the blue ocean harbor.

I make my way down the King’s stairs to a cool suspension bridge—what a drop! I go to the other end of the mountain, coming in and out of some tunnels excavated by war generals for sieges. I get really spooked in the pitch dark and move quickly out into the trail, ending up in the brambles of thick olive scrub.

Finally I make it to the other end, near an old moorish castle that I’ve seen glow red at night. Descending down the castle stairs to the town, I walk through the park and harbor. Gibraltar lacks the charm of Spanish cities, and reminds me of other English colonies with cobblestone streets, but some of the architecture still has a similar Spanish style. It feels like the whole town is a fortress, with old high walls and archways to pass through.

I love seeing the ocean village at night though, with its marine animal and sailing motifs in the tiling and lights decorating the palm trees. Of course, I treat myself to some British fish and chips.
It’s a bit strange here, because mostly people are speaking English, but I hear a lot of Spanish too, and of course, it’s still right near Spain. While it’s like a border town, it somehow still has the gloomy UK weather. And it has its own distinctive bank notes (British pounds) too! What an interesting, culturally confusing experience.

The next day, I visit the Mediterranean side beach, see some partridges, and very clear (but cold) water, mixing with theAtlantic Ocean. I enjoy birdwatching in the park before walking 20 minutes to cross the border back to Spain to continue on to Ronda. It almost seems too easy going back and forth, until my passport is rejected by a border agent. I return with a different identity document, but the agent has disappeared, and my passport seems to work this time.

And so I exit the UK and return to the EU in a matter of minutes. Is Gibraltar a “must-visit” destination? Probably not. But it sure is iconic, and I really appreciated the natural beauty of the rock and its unique history.