The drive along the coast is stunning, but now the mountains get larger and larger as we approach the gulf of Kotor.

The town itself seems ordinary enough at first with a bustling Saturday market, until I approach closer and notice the fortress walls behind it.

The entire old town is surrounded by the fortress, and walking through the main entrance is like entering another world. Venetian architecture abound, I wander through the alleyways to drop my luggage off at my apartment in this UNESCO world heritage site.

I have some time to kill before check-in, so I decide to visit the small coastal town of Perast. I wait a short while at a bus stop, debating with a taxi driver whether to just go with him for 10€, when he drives off and the bus shows up after a 15 minute wait. He says tutto sbagliato qui (everything is wrong here) when asked about why the bus stop is on the other side of the street. I get on, the bus does a four point turn past where the bus stop is supposed to be, and continues on the coast.

This part of the coastline is the most scenic with the shimmering turquoise water and the mountains in the background. I try to take as many bus window pictures I can until I arrive at the town. Finally I can capture the landscape!

But first I have to walk up. I go along the harbor, looking out at the island monasteries. I follow my way up and down each of the passages, careful to explore every alley I can. I am glad, because I find church ruins overgrown with vegetation that is just magical. The view over the ocean and the church tower is grand.

The town is very cute with traditional Venetian architecture along the hilly slope. I make it down at last in time for the bus back.

I make it back to Kotor only to find I still have time before I can check in. I finally get to explore this (much flatter) old city. There are many medieval churches (some dating back to the 11th and 10th centuries) and plenty of Venetian decor, including crests and insignias from prominent Italian families (such as Lombardi, for example). I wander down each alleyway—notables include an old-style post box, a 400 year old poplar tree, and the sparkling green moat under the drawbridge where I’m staying.

After trying many disappointing, watery sorbet, I finally have some delicious chocolate and cherry gelato at Castelisisimo that I carry with me to keep cool as I explore the city.

After exploring every last Venetian ruin and alley, I can finally check in. The apartment looks like what living in a UNESCO world heritage site would, with brick decor and a moldy bathroom, but it is freshly painted and renovated.

I hike up the fortress, taking the route known as “the ladder of Kotor.” It is a winding rocky path up the hill under the white craggy mountains. It is spectacular looking out at the gulf, but the view only improves as I climb higher towards the fortress.

I sure have fun storming the castle! There is a ladder at the end of the path where you can climb through a window into the fortress. It is mostly just steps, so I go up to the very top.

Here there are all sorts of rooms and caves from the ruins of the fortress. There is a fantastic view of the mountains all around, and I stay and watch as the sun casts its red glow on the mountains behind me.