Krauss-ing The World

Budva

Posted on November 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

The Montenegro coastline is jaw dropping with mountains and islands in the blue Adriatic. Passing all the scenic towns and the fancy resort island of Sveti Stefan, I see the town of Budva on the coastline.

It is a very nice city with brick streets and lots of palm trees and greenery. I wander past the Roman and Greek necropolis, which has become a playground for a local family. I enter the old city walls only to be pleasantly surprised. Vines changing red with autumn hang artistically across the old buildings. Roman and early Christian ruins are scattered throughout like art decor.

This old city lays flat along the coastline, but still has all the charm of the alleys; it feels more cozy than claustrophobic with many tourist shops, bars, and restaurants. A citadel and church lie at one end, while a tunnel leads out to the beach at the other. The view is stunning as golden hour sets in and sets the fortress aglow.

I see the rocky coastline has a trail cutting through, and continue on to see the highly folded rocks. These crumbling ridges have nets and wire to prevent rockfall, though warning signs mark the path. The folds are mesmerizing and lead to little divets or caves along the beach. I cross one cave that is quickly filling with water to find a beach tucked away. A half dozen kittens live in the holes beneath a bar and come out to beg. They crawl all over me as I take pictures, and it seems someone has left a plate of food for them. Unable to proceed further, I turn back to town.

I walk back along the coastline to watch the sunset from a pier jutting out towards the end of town. These beaches are not as clear as the others, probably due to pollution from all the boats. I can still see the sea floor, littered with trash. A man casually kicks a plastic bottle cap into the sea.

I get a gyro—finally at a familiar price—and I visit a museum that’s still open. Wandering around the old town is nice at night, but I get hopelessly lost. The museum contains the artifacts from the Roman & Greek mortuary and lots of other tools and pottery from the period. Some pots are just beautiful, while others seem rather worn with time. There is gold jewelry with proto-Greek designs featuring nature patterns.

On my last sunny day I enjoy the sunrise on my balcony before taking off towards the mountains of Kotor.

Skadar lake

Posted on November 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

The mountains around Bar are just spectacular. It is unbelievable the whole way through to Virpazar, the town along Skadar lake. I go to hike around a bit, but get suckered into a boat tour around the lake.

It is really nice going through the marsh wetlands. Cormorants, herons, seagulls and even a hawk fly by as the boat cruises along. The seagulls don’t seem to mind. Through the reeds, the boat offers fantastic views of the mountains rising up out of the lake, islands that house Ottoman towers, monasteries and protected forest reserves. They look magnificent reflected in the lake and with the Albanian alps as a backdrop.

I hitchhike up the road to the viewpoint, with fantastic views of the mountains surrounding the lake on the way. The lake transitions to narrow rivers and wetlands. I make it to the viewpoint after frantic hitchhiking but don’t make it back before dark. I stay the night in the town nearby, committed to return in the morning and make it back to Bar where I left my luggage.

It is totally worth staying overnight for the sunrise glow illuminating the misty swamps. The rivers have a greenish hue, and the mountains are hauntingly backlit. It is a peaceful walk up to the lookout, and I take lots of pictures at the viewpoint. I walk down and get some snacks before hitchhiking back. A couple from Montenegro speak no English but manage to get me halfway to Virpazar. Another couple from New York picks me up after and takes me all the way back to Bar to collect my luggage. The journey is eventful with a cat they’ve picked up along the way, but I make it back to Bar just in time to miss the bus.

I take the opportunity to walk around Bar a bit. The town has a little median of grass that stretches through like a lane way. It provides cool shade as I step out onto the hot harbor. It is not extraordinary, but there are fancy houses along the way, including a palace. The orthodox church is quite impressive as well!

Ulcinj

Posted on November 9 by krauss-ingtheworld

Arriving in Montenegro is seamless, and the bus driver takes care of the entry visa procedures. The mountains follow all the way to the coastline where I arrive in Ulcinj.

After following the wrong address of my last minute booking, I go to the location on the map and check in to my budget apartment. I explore the main Ulcinj drag and get an Italian sandwich—delectable as ever and still cheap. As I walk up to the fortress, boys on bicycles pass and make an ugly face at me sticking their tongue out, but I’m navigating on my phone and pretend not to notice.

The fortress is just protective walls, but there is a whole city inside. The citadel is in ruins and houses artifacts dating back to old Illyria, the civilization from before the Romans conquered this area. There are mostly gothic columns and arches that remain along the old walls and cobblestone paths.

I see dozens of cats that are well cared for. I make my way down the hill, and sometimes back up again, navigating the old alleys. I get lost quite a bit, but I manage to find my way back each time to the beautiful coastal view. Climbing down the steps to the pier, I find just rocks and no beach.

To get to a real beach, I have to go back up and out the exit of the fortress to hike along the coast for an hour. This stretch of forest is mostly pine and shrub but provides enough shade from the hot sun. There are views of the clear turquoise sea the whole way—my favorite kind of hike! The path is straightforward, and I am careful to not go along the steep edge that plummets to the sea.

At last I reach the beach, but it is nearly sunset. The water is too cold for me, and the sand mostly brown, but it is nice to walk along the stretch a bit before heading back to the road. I am harassed by security along the road I cut through. Apparently it is a resort, and they are not happy about me taking the back entrance in. I don’t understand the Montenegrin, but enough that I pick up on the situation. I hurriedly head back, stopping only for a pizza.

The true highlight is in the morning when I check out the salt lakes. Though I know enough about salt flats at this point, the flooded marshes remain hotspots for bird diversity. I see many species of herons and seagulls. Marsh songbirds flit about among the bushes and the morning light shines bright on the mountains in the background.

I finally reach the lake, my destination, in hopes of seeing a couple flamingoes. Not only do I spy some flamingoes, but I see dozens of them, pink specks in the distance. I get so excited when I see the signature curved neck, I say “wow” to myself with no one around. I immediately start photographing and video only to realize I’m on my last camera battery (well, I knew this already, but I forgot to charge the night before). I have to turn back, anyways but only just before my battery dies. The flamingoes quickly move away, wary of me as a predator, but not before I get some pictures and video of them walking in a procession across the lake. Wetland conservation is so important for not just the birds, but for flood control to protect coastal communities like Ulcinj. Wetlands also store carbon, which is critical to address climate change.

Tirana & Shkodër

Posted on November 8 by krauss-ingtheworld

I am not sure what I was expecting in Albania’s capital. The modern architecture is quite unique in Tirana. It has a lot of rainbows and color for such a homophobic country, which I quickly discover. It’s isolation and communist dictatorship has left a patriarchal and traditional culture, despite not being religious. The lack of theocracy allows both Islam and Christian groups to practice in an otherwise secular society. I hear a call to prayer at the mosque for the Islam practitioners.

The central mosque is stunning, as is the clock tower at its side. There are several large impressive government buildings, all built by the Italians in their style during occupation. The dictator’s house is rather humble surprisingly, surrounded by communist dormitories in the communist block. I could have stayed in one, but for 10 dollars more I just got a nice apartment in the city center.

I scarf down the best falafel of my life at Opa’s greek. I only eat here despite all the restaurants in Tirana because it is close, quick and I am ravenous. I’m not a food blogger, but the falafel is so creamy and topped with red peppers and a green sauce that is divine.

There isn’t much open at the time of my visit, and the main pyramid and bunker museum is closed. I leave with little interest in going to museums, feeling burnt out from seeing so many artifacts the last few weeks. Instead, I walk around the lake and forest enjoying the waterfowl, and I even spot some new birds.

No matter how hard I try I just cannot remember how to pronounce Shkodër. Surrounded by beautiful wetlands and protected areas, mountains and a lake, I miss all of it. There is an early morning shuttle to the Albanian alps, but the forecast calls for rain, and three hours in a shuttle on a windy road seems not so worthwhile to me.

I instead take my time to wander around the old town. It is very quaint; stone paths and small restaurants line the several blocks of the city center. I have some delicious Italian food—beet risotto with grilled vegetables on the side—for half the price of Italy, and just as tasty. Maybe I just hadn’t eaten vegetables in so long? There is even a cute kitten at the restaurant entrance to greet me.

There are several mosques and monuments around the center, but I have to leave on the first bus to Montenegro. I actually get to the station to ask the departure schedules for the day just as the bus to Podgorica is leaving. Luckily, there is one to Ulcinj, and it turns out this town is much better to stay in than the Montenegrin capital apparently.

So I leave Albania, without a visit to the lake or fortress, though I do get to see it again as I pass by in the shuttle. At this point, I’m not mourning the missed opportunity of seeing yet another Venetian fortress. But the surrounding nature reserves seem really nice.

I don’t see any dragons, but overall I enjoy my time passing through Albania. The beaches I visit are beautiful, the ruins and towns full of well-preserved history, and the mountains look spectacular.

Berat

Posted on November 2 by krauss-ingtheworld

The coast disappears into the mountains. Rolling into the foothills of Berat is like a fantasy. The clouds cover the peak of mountains in the backdrop above a uniformly designed town. It is uniquely Ottoman, with distinct brown shutters and roof. There are several mosques scattered around the town, through which there is a main walkway along the river filled with restaurants. I have a crepe kebab (a crepe with chicken) and hike up the steep alleyways of the town.

I reach the fortress at the top, less a castle and more a fortified city. It is amazing walking along the ruins and watching the sunset over the town. The clouds burn red as I climb the remaining fortress walls, striving for a better view.

It is dark by the time I make it to the top. I return in the morning to wander the fortress and crumbling ruins of the mosque. The small city with its steep streets are full of elderly residents. They must stay fit.

Something I discover following the signs to cistern is an old Byzantine cistern. I walk down steps to what seems like a hut, but the steps drop off into a pool of water. The old chamber has a bit of light shining through the top. I definitely can imagine a sewer monster living in here.

I enjoy wandering through the old Christian quarter although it is heavily under construction. There is a great view of the old town under the fortress from here. I return as well to continue exploring the unique architecture and streets only to find much of it is under construction too! The mosque has beautiful murals and I even witness a call to prayer. It seems more people practice Islam here, as I pass by several people wearing hijabs. Most of the people have darker features as well.

There are some interesting streets where the stairs fold off into rock and narrow passageways that leave me feeling claustrophobic. Others have arches of vines and potted plants giving a nice vibe.

I enjoy wandering around this town very much!

Ferry to Albania

Posted on October 5 by krauss-ingtheworld

I do not want to leave my luxurious place on the cliff side above the turquoise bays. Unfortunately I am here just before the weekend, with a bus that doesn’t run on weekends. So I take the last 7:15am bus, up at the crack of dawn, to head to the port to catch a 9am ferry. It is cloudy, so the sunrise is nothing spectacular, but the clouds clear as I depart from the island. Watching Corfu from the ocean looks magical. The mainland of Greece and Albania looks pretty nice as well, and I zoom past an area I return to that afternoon.

Upon arrival in Sarande, I go through customs on a dock, which is a first for me. I get an Albanian SIM card (as my Eurozone SIM card no longer works), find a place to stay the night, and finally figure out where the bus is so that I can head towards this beautiful place I glimpsed on the boat ride.

I am surrounded by hills and green water that fills in the islet. The area along the bay of the Mediterranean is turquoise and filled with fish. Fisherman line the inlet as I watch from the medieval fortress walls. Here is an archeological park, nature reserve and recreational spot all in one.

The Butrint settlement was first Greek, established as a temple around refugees from Troy. The natural springs attracted attention, and people came to see the temple. They eventually built an arena (remodeled by the Romans), but it is cool seeing the surrounding developments. Mostly in ruins, and flooded by water, they become habitats for the local turtles.

I enjoy wandering the old Hellenistic walls dating back to 6th century BCE, complete with a Roman insignia to narrow the tunnels. The Greek architecture is just blocks stacked on blocks with no cement. It’s remarkable — and it’s built to last!

Roman animal design, narrowing the tunnel for better defenses

This wall follows a nice path through the forest along the inlet and has great views (but also lots of mosquitos). I climb up to the Byzantine castle, traveling to a third time period. The castle houses a museum with artifacts from the area throughout the millennia of occupation.

I go on a beach crawl, since there is not really a continuous coastline. Along the coast there are many inlets, each with its own beach. The best are on the outermost point of the peninsula—sandy white with several islets within a stone’s throw. The water is perfectly turquoise and fish can be seen swimming around the algae and rocks.

I watch the sunset and catch the last bus back to Sarande.

It is pleasant walking along the promenade around the many bars and restaurants. I have some brick-oven fired pizza and retreat to sleep as a thunderstorm rolls in.

***

It’s a really interesting landscape with mountains along the coastline, and I catch glimpses through the clouds as I make my way up the coast.

The town of Vlore is nice along the beach and has a long promenade. I get a place right on the shoreline for $30, thanks to a connection from a dating app and several unresponsive booking requests (the place I had booked canceled because of the storm. I guess I can’t blame them for not wanting to go out in the downpour).

There are a few nice mosques. I enjoy walking through a colorful central plaza, and an old strip called the Jewish street. There are interesting motifs along the wall and Albanian flags lining the stone streets. I get a smoothie for $2 and an ice cream before I make my way to the bus station to continue up through Albania.

“Jewish Street”

Corfu

Posted on October 4 by krauss-ingtheworld

The city of Corfu (Kerkyra) is a bit strange because all of a sudden it is as if I am transported to Italy. Portico columns, the color, and just general vibe remind me so much of an Italian town. There are Byzantine fortresses on either side I cannot explore with my hand luggage, but I slide it over the cobblestone paths with relative ease as I navigate the narrow alleys of the old city. I am surprised to find the ruins of an old synagogue and a kiosk selling a vegetarian eggplant sandwich and kiwi juice for lunch.

Kavos, where I spend my first night, sucks. The bathroom in my accommodation is gross and the WiFi is basically nonexistent. I go to the beach which is beautiful, but then I get sucked into it by taking a wrong step. I sink up to my waist, but luckily my phone is unharmed. It’s covered in dead sea grass, which attracts tons of biting flies; I get devoured by mosquitos as the sunset comes. On the first day of November, everything is closed, and so there is nothing for me to eat but chips.

I return to the old town and circle the fortress, but it is also closed. I walk through the central plaza and down some cute alleys decorated with hanging vines. It’s a nice touch to the Venetian city.

I bus along the coast and finally see the turquoise Ionian Sea. The bus winds through the mountains and small villages to arrive in Sidari.

Along the north coast the jagged islands and peninsulas stretch in and out along the shoreline like waves. I wander along each outcrop to the point where I can look out over the shallow, turquoise water, careful not to slip. The edges are striated into steps that I follow up to a patch of shrubby forest. I trace six or seven outcrops before the coastal walk ends at the “tunnel of love”.

This cove features a cool tunnel that goes underneath the peninsula. I brave the cold water and check it out. The water reflects aquamarine at the mouth of the tunnel, and I see it goes through to the other side. I get a headache and turn red from the cold, so I immediately get out and towel off.

I hike along the remaining coastline to the final beach, featuring nice islets and a peculiar peninsula thinly branching off. I scale up the hill to the top of the cliff, through many thorny shrubs, to view the sunset. Golden rays illuminate the limestone peninsulas and turquoise water. I’m careful not to fall off as I capture photos. I have a sandwich from Kerkyra as I enjoy the light show. I return to Sidari to find a sandwich and waffle shop that is still open—lucky me!

The next day I hike further to the edge of the island, up through the farms and morning mist. I pass many fires that I am convinced are feeding the clouds I hike through to reach the top. I walk along a ridge of olive forest overlooking the cerulean sea.

I continue on towards the lookout at Cape Drastis. This view includes a couple islets branching off from the peninsula and appear to harbor resting seabirds. I walk down and around a bit up the cliff side until I can go no further.

Before I return I stop off at another beach. This one is at the base of a steep cliff; I do not descend all the way, as I notice my shoe traction is smoothed by the hundreds of miles of walking I’ve done the past few months. I slip down the slick pavement, climbing my way back up towards the historic town.

I revisit the beaches from the previous day, this time in better lighting, and I am better able to capture their beauty.

I depart for my next destination of Palaiokastritsa. This place is pure mountain beauty. Cliffs rise behind me, and aquamarine basins are below me as I follow the road down to the beach.

Odysseus landed upon these shores before returning to Ithaca, according to legend

While the beaches are not as nice as up north, the water looks incredible. Sea caves line the coasts and forests climb insurmountable cliff sides. I hike up an inlet to a monastery to watch the sunset. Sunset over the bays and cliffs is divine.

Ioannina

Posted on September 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

On an impulse after departing the lovely mountains of Meteora and driving through the mountainous villages, I stay the afternoon in Ioannina.

Attracted by the lake with a mountain backdrop, I linger only so much as to walk around the circumference of the old fortress walls. I do some light photography of the waterfowl and monastic island in the lake. The monasteries there are the former refuge of the orthodox monks before they arrived at Meteora. It piques my interest, but I’m more impressed by the walls encircling the historic town.

I wander through the halls as I am transported back to the Byzantine empire—and Ottoman-era refurbishments that restored these walls and buildings. Notable buildings are the grand mosques, built over even older churches, and remaining structures including towers. A particularly notable one is called Its Kale!

I go in a mosque, and to my surprise there are Jewish artifacts from the historic communities dating back to the establishment of Ioannina. Jewish Greek life extends to the 3rd centry BCE, and their descendents have unique clothing and ketubahs, a Jewish marriage contract. Silver work, characteristic of the region, binds together the scroll of Esther. Inside the interior of the mosque there is beautiful islamic architecture and mother of pearl inlaid on walnut furniture.

The streets of old town are cobbled and filled with pastel houses and plazas. The old synagogue is still standing and in use. The newer area outside the walls is full of bars and lively restaurants and has a certain charm. The city lines the lake and has lots of green space and forests to compliment the development.

I am quite happy with my break in Ioannina, though I am careful to depart at sunset because I have a ferry to catch!

Meteora

Posted on September 16 by krauss-ingtheworld

My jaw drops when the most unique rocks and cliffs greet me as I pull into the train station near Meteora.

Walking up into the hills of Meteora, the spiritual music blasting from the village below really sets the mood. Gregorian chanting sounds echo through the valley. I hear gun shots as well, perhaps a firing in honor of Ohi day.

I miss most of the sunset, but I get an introduction to the area and familiarized with the path up to the monasteries.

The steep hike up is a struggle the next day with sore legs, but I shake it off as I return up to see the monastery alone on a mountain peak.

The monastery art is very impressive and elaborate. I like the Byzantine style! They kept it because they are orthodox, while the rest of Catholicism went excessive and Boroque, guady in decor. Yet it is still pretty elaborate in my opinion, and gilded with gold. There are many intricate designs on display at some of the museums in the larger monasteries.

At the top there are really amazing vistas. It is free to visit, at least for residents, which I passed for. The next monastery I visit has an elaborate garden out back.

I hike around some of the outcrops for some more great views, but the very steep cliffs slope a little towards a sheer drop– it’s very scary! I try not to get too close and don’t go hiking very far.

I walk to the next monastery along the road, which is not so fun. The next monastery is my favorite. It has great views and a wheel that they use as a level pulley cart, sending and receiving supplies from the road.

There are several viewpoints sticking out that are great for watching the sunset and taking pictures in the afternoon sun. I think to myself it would be better in the morning. I come back the next day with a shortcut, although I get a little lost among the olive trees. I take many pictures in the morning light.

I visit the last temple I have time for at Varlaan. It is larger and has some nice museum exhibits, but I’m rushed out. I come back the next day to finish and I’m glad I do—it informs on the whole history of the temples and explains how they are built by persecuted monks, who came as refugees. Most of the art in the churches details their persecutions and it looks pretty gory. There are some depictions of demons and dragons that look pretty cool too!

At night I go up with a local to a viewpoint, enjoying a gyro and taking in the cliffs at night. One of the cliff faces looks a Spartan helmet.

The grand monastery is the biggest and has nice courtyards, and of course great views from the balcony. The road leading up to it is my favorite spot for golden hour, and I take lots of photos of the monastery on the cliff. There is a nice trail down from here in the shade and cobblestones. It is fun walking in the historic trails, and there are more intimate views with some of the rock formations here.

I visit the last temple which has views of a different side of the rocks I hadn’t seen yet,and some new pillars. Caves where monks lived in the cliff side are visible here as well. This monastery is humble, but has a great rooftop balcony. Ruins of the monasteries that didn’t survive can be seen on nearby peaks.

I still have time, so I wander around the charming town of Kastraki, which has a nice plaza at the center and interesting art shops. There is a historic area on the hilltop, and I continue hiking past here up the side of a rock column. There is a church embedded in the rock, but the nice part is a climb up a steep slope and a ladder to get to a flat rock face. I watch the sun dip below the mountains and ring a church bell to mark the occasion.

Thessaloniki

Posted on September 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

When I saw a $20 flight to Thessaloniki from Zagreb, I booked it impulsively, knowing I wanted to return to Greece. I was sad I didn’t finish traveling through Croatia, and I was coming to regret it, but immediately I was impressed with the Macedonian city.

The area has plenty of restaurants and bars to offer along the main promenade. There are Roman ruins scattered throughout this area alongside Ottoman structures and Byzantine era churches. A large white tower stands along the coast, remnants from its time as the second largest city of the Byzantine empire.

I have a delicious Greek groat mediterranean bowl for 2 euros before hiking up the hill. It is called the Acropolis, but the remains are of a Roman fortress that became a Byzantine wall to defend the city from Turkish invaders. The sunset view above the ocean is beautiful with the historic walls as a backdrop.

I wind carefully down through the old town at the foot of the castle, cobblestone hills and vines and other greenery lining the characteristic Greek houses. At the bottom, large villas and palaces make up the cityscape, some sporting Turkish decor.

There is a bustling marketplace and central plaza around Roman ruins that inspire a little window shopping. I return in the morning to the rotunda to see the early Christian murals along the ceiling on the inside and a museum about Christians that fled here in the early 19th century.

I also take advantage of the holiday to see the museum for free, with a beautiful overview of ancient Macedonia through the empire and Roman succession. There is ornate pottery, burial gold craftwork, and intact tools from everyday life.

Today is “Ohi” day, or “No” day, in commemoration of the day the Greeks stood against Nazi invaders during WWII. They ultimately lost, but they are proud that they resisted. Different branches of the military in their fun uniforms walk past me towards a parade that is gathering, with hundreds of people beginning to form a crowd. I quickly escape from the hullabaloo to collect my luggage and head for the train station for my next destination.

My train passes by Mount Olympus, mythic home of the Greek gods, surrounded by a swirling cloud.