Krauss-ing The World

Aphrodite’s trail

Posted on January 16 by krauss-ingtheworld

The cult of Aphrodite arose in Cyprus. As Greek civilization expanded to include the island, the goddess Aphrodite became incorporated into the Greek Pantheon. According to mythology, Aphrodite called Cyprus home, so everything is Aphrodite-themed.

The baths of Aphrodite are simply a pond in a tufa wall, trickling water like a waterfall down the hanging moss. The scattered light, shade of the grotto, and sprinkles of water really do create a mythical scene. It is easy to believe a goddess would choose this place to bathe.

I follow in her footsteps up the scenic Aphrodite trail along the coastline overlooking the sea. It turns out I go up the route of Adonis by mistake, steep up through the Juniper trees. It is great how the Akamas National Park is a protected habitat for these endangered endemic trees. There is a small botanical garden labeling common plants, and many have labels along the path as well.

I pass many hunters of rabbits who use dogs to sniff them out. I hear shotgun blasts occasionally as I hike up through the shrubby forest. It is steep, so I take a pause to walk along the road towards a different trail before continuing to the summit.

Can you find the grasshopper camoflauged?

I rejoin the main trail after some off-road navigating and see the beauty of the Sigies (circular) path. The rocks are multi-colored, remnants of glacial movements, and they have beautiful streaks of all colors of the rainbow. Up along this side of the hill I can see out along the coastline—it is turquoise along the rim with several deep blue lagoons and sandy beaches. I will have to come back in summer and go swimming here!

I continue along towards the other side where now I can look at both sides of the sea, but it begins to rain. It is light and does not bother me, and I am grateful for the cloud cover as I go back up towards the summit, returning to Aphrodite’s trail.

It is steep on this side, but less so than the other side, where it is pretty much a vertical drop. Out over the lookout lays the most beautiful coastline I have seen, with so many turquoise rocky bays.

There are not so many beaches, but from above the lagoons look unreal. I get to enjoy the coastline all the way down, as the clouds return to a light sprinkle. I pass a herd of goats on the hillside; some of them nudge a kid along. The baby goats are adorable, and I follow them along the cliffside as long as I can. I am careful to allow the big horned males to cross before I continue down the path.

I get close to the bottom and walk along the lagoons. Here I bump into Anwar, a nice boy from Milan who gives me a lift back to the bus station in , as it is getting dark.

Views from the way down Aphrodite’s trail

Tomb of the Kings & Aphrodite’s birthplace

Posted on January 4 by krauss-ingtheworld

I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, but instead of breaking into tombs I am respectfully appreciating them. I still climb around through the narrow tunnels made by tomb raiders, but most of the time I take the doxos, stairs built by the Phoenicians. The tombs are designed to be accessed by the family and even have large rooms for ceremonial offering of wine and honey. Amphora were discovered and are piled offsite.

The unique thing about these tombs, compared to the others, is their elaborate design, created for the upper class. The temples have Doric columns, typical of the Greeks, and have characteristic wells for bathing after visiting the dead, a orthodox practice still common in Cyprus. This last tomb was found with two eagles, the symbol of the Ptolemaic empire, so it possibly belonged to the king (hence the name Tomb of the Kings). Or it could be two falcons, a symbol tied to Alexandria, Egypt. The burial niches are sometimes small and other times deep and large. It is so fun going down the steps into the tunnels or open air tombs to explore all the burial niches.

The landscape is completely covered with tombs, some as elaborate as the upper class tombs, found down all sorts of concealed passageways. My former archeologist is very satisfied, but disheartened by all the context stolen by tomb raiders and colonial “archeology.” Artifacts were taken without documentation to form the MET in New York, where majority of the artifacts of these tombs remain.

I go with a Romanian guy to see Aphrodite’s rock. Honestly, it is the least extraordinary rock of the whole area, so I know that it must be tied to the legend where Aphrodite was born from the sea foam. Her cult was born on Paphos, so everything is Aphrodite-themed. The other limestone formations of rock jutting out of the sea are beautiful. The sea shines turquoise in the sun and pebbles line the beach, rattling as the waves pull them over each other. There is a little cliff to climb up and get an overview of the area. The neighboring beach is quite nice too, a bit less crowded and with equally beautiful views of the milky, white sea.

Aphrodite’s rock

Paphos

Posted on January 1 by krauss-ingtheworld

It is great to be in the warm sun again! I shed my layers and walk around with my luggage along the Cyprus coastline to embrace the warm wind. I notice tunnels along an ancient wall above the coastal walk. After dropping off my luggage I return to investigate.

There are tunnels all throughout the hillside like a labyrinth. I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider as I duck inside the narrow passageways, climbing into a larger chamber, then navigating to the other caves. There is a large central entrance that branches off in dozens of directions. It is a maze; I’m certain I explore it all, but who knows? It is really remarkable, and I seem to be the only one inside for the moment. There is a Roman mural too and what looks like an old stadium of some kind.

Curious, I check out the archeological park. To my surprise, there are dozens of ancient Roman villa remains from the Hellenistic period. There are so many remaining pillars, columns and foundations of the buildings still intact. Others are left behind swept to the side, making for a perfect picnic spot as I gaze off to the sea and contemplate what the palace must have looked like.

Dozens of Roman mosaics, in the best condition I’ve seen, dazzle with remarkable geometric patterns and symbols. Many have vibrant colors and detail iconic scenes of lore. The Minotaur, the legend of Dionysus, his colonization of India, Achilles, Leda and the swan, and Scylla from The Odyssey all make appearances. My favorite is a hunting scene in the house, with a dog used to hunt by the looks of it.

I make my way across a ruined Christian temple and towards the ancient agora. Little remains of this massive complex except a theater and neighboring house of healing (purpose debated). The view from up top is grand. There is a lot of natural vegetation, incorporated in the formation of the archeological park, as this is critical habitat for migratory birds.

My last stop is the temple of Apollo or underground passageways of Phoenicians. I almost miss it, but I happen to stumble upon one of the entrances. I go down expecting to get lost, but somehow the maze of tunnels seems more organized.

The caves are more like tombs, and some have very small niches and grooves. A lot of the rooms are more cozy, and there is less mess than the tunnels outside the park. I explore this amazing remnant of history, pondering its purpose, until my stomach urges me to check in to my hotel.

Sarajevo

Posted on December 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

Sarajevo is a city of historical importance for many reasons. It is the site of Franz Ferdinand’s assassination that initiated World War II. Many museums commemorate the horrific genocide of Bosnians. Historically, Sarajevo was a place of intercultural tolerance. Jews, Muslims and Christians coexisted in the city under Ottoman rule for centuries. Marks of this civilization remain more prominent than in the other Balkan states, with the characteristic Ottoman architectural style dating back to the 15th century on some streets and markets.

The mosques cover the city with their lead domes and minarets. The old market place carries on the centuries old tradition, although the wares have changed. The indoor marketplace is restored; much was damaged during the attacks.

I take a break from the rain in one of these market stalls, where I have some spinach burek covered in a heavy cream.

I walk up the river past a cemetery to check out the fortress surrounding old Ottoman palaces. The palaces are in disarray, but the fortress has an exhibit on the first president of Bosnia & Herzegovina. I return along the river, facing the neo-Moorish decor of the town hall and the Latin bridge where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, sparking World War I.

Cemetery
Palaces in decay
View from the fortress
Fortress entrance
Moorish town hall
Bench commemorating where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated

I shop along the Austro-Hungarian architecture of the main boulevard for a delicious Cevapi and stuffed vegetables in the main marketplace.

As the sun sets I visit the old Jewish cemetery of Sarajevo near where I’m staying. The bridges light up, illuminating the river as I stroll back after dark.

It is interesting to learn how several governments for each state (Bosnia & Herzegovina, and the Serbian republic of Srpska). I pass through Srpska on the way out of Bosnia towards Zagreb.

Mostar

Posted on December 26 by krauss-ingtheworld

Bosnia & Herzegovina is a nice surprise. At the suggestion of my local mentor/buddy from the year above me on my program, I go up to Zagreb through B & H. After a complex border crossing (several bus passengers are refused entry, so there is a long wait) I’m in the country. It is stormy, so being along the ocean is no longer so nice, though there are still beautiful views of clouds cupping the mountains along the steep coastline. It is beautiful going into the hills of Croatia, though B & H flattens out some.

It is odd coming here on the Memorial Day honoring those who died in the attacks on Croatia by the Serbians as part of the collapsing Yugoslavia. There are candle displays in Split, and the first thing I notice when getting off the bus in Mostar is all the genocide memorials and museums. There are still mountains in the background, and I book it through the modern city in the rain to the historic center.

There are lots of cafes, bars and street murals along the apartments. Many are beautiful symbolic works featuring nature and culture.

The old city shifts starkly with its old cobblestone streets that are tricky to navigate in the rain. The main street is filled with tourist shops in old stone buildings. There is a river flowing through it, and the multiple layers of buildings give it a more dynamic feel.

In the background are old administrative buildings and a cathedral towering over the town. I don’t make it up to them, but I do cross the bridge. This bridge is iconic, yet it has recently been restored. The view is wonderful of the green river flowing underneath past the stone Ottoman-style buildings complete with a mountain backdrop.

The other side of the river has a similar feel to the main street, albeit with pastel colored buildings and traditional window shutters. The view of the bridge is better than the bridge itself, especially with all the minaret towers from the Ottoman buildings. There are many mosques, and I hear the Islam call to prayer as I enter the town. It is a nice stopover, and I navigate my way back to the bus station seamlessly in the lessened rain.

Hvar island

Posted on December 21 by krauss-ingtheworld

Wavering over whether or not to bother with all of the rain, I take advantage of the partly sunny forecast to visit one of Croatia’s thousands of islands. The most popular, Hvar is so crowded in summer, but now should provide just enough tourism that infrastructure remains open.

I take the plunge, hop on the ferry in the rain for an obscured view of the islands in the mist. I realize I am at the wrong port, but I take advantage of the pause in the rain to walk along the pier suitcase in hand.

I take the roundabout bus to my destination in the pouring rain and arrive at my site. I think I’m meant to sleep on the couch until I remember “first floor” really is European for “2nd floor” and take the keys upstairs. A beeping sound is driving me crazy, but it’s a broken fire detector. The cleaning lady comes to fix it, I think that’s all, and I go to sleep.

I wake up early for the bus back to Hvar town, but I am surprised to find the door is locked. The cleaning lady must have locked me in; I try messaging the host to send for her, but realizing that isn’t working, I shout for help on the street. The two people who walk by ignore me. Desperate, I calculate the window to be too high to climb down from. I go into another room and see the balcony goes onto the stairs bellow. Slippery from the rain, I plan for my hands to slide down the banister, lowering myself onto the stairs below. I bump my arm, but thanks to parkour training in Reunion, I escape relatively unscathed.

I still miss the bus, but this gives me the chance to explore Stari Grad (Old town). The harbor view of the island hills is nice and the city has some Venetian artifacts. I enjoy wandering around the town and seeing all the construction works restoring the old Venetian colony. There is even an archeological site with Greek and medieval ruins.

I finally catch the bus over to Hvar and what a view! The route along the coast and over the hills is spectacular, passing dried up lavender fields and mysterious stone walls cutting through the shrubby landscape. I later discover the stone walls date back to Greek times and are used for agriculture. Crossing over the mountains I arrive in town. My first step is to go up the steps! Towards the fortress I go one alley at a time, slowly making my way through the gates of the old Venetian city. Some are lined with plants and flowers; others have hanging vines strewn across. Most shops are closed, yet a barbershop plays club music.

I go up to the fortress by a winding path and a meowing cat. The fortress is closed but there is a nice view of the islands off the coast of Hvar. On the way down, I stop by an old church and go off down a little hiking trail, but I bump into the stone walls and can go no further. It kinda disturbs the landscape, so I return back down.

After sightseeing in the port town, I continue along the coast on the same path from the day before until I reach cliffs. A beautiful blue bay lays at the end of the trail, and I have a nice snack before continuing back the other way. I wrap around each inlet until I find a nature trail cutting across the coast with shrubby forest. White rocks jut out below the path, and I really enjoy this part. After a couple kilometers I reach a pebbled beach with a small patch of sand I walk through. I am finally happy to be here with the blue water, beaming intensely under the newly appeared sunlight.

I walk back in the golden hour glow to the town center, watching the sun dip behind the islands. I expect I won’t make the ferry back to the mainland, but the bus takes a different route along the coast, where I continue watching the sunset and see all the secret beaches of the island hidden in the inlets. It drops me off right in town center, giving me just enough time to pack my stuff. Though I barely miss the bus to the ferry, I run with my luggage and arrive just before departure as the cars load. With a storm coming in the morning, with the risk of becoming stranded for the weekend in unpleasant accommodations, I take it as a sign to leave.

My heart races the rest of the night, never truly recovering from the sprint to the ferry. The late night pizza I have is as good as any you’d get in NYC, with a crisp crust and nice cheese. I enjoy walking around Split town one last time at night, appreciating the late Roman details and grateful to be back on the mainland.

Split

Posted on December 19 by krauss-ingtheworld

The drive along the Dalmatian islands to Split is breathtaking. The views of the mountains inland with the clouds hanging over them is magical.

I like the busyness of the Croatian city intertwined with the large historic area. The neighborhood I’m in is quaint, with old huts and a network of alleys forming a maze. I get very lost and hit lots of dead ends as I hear a sermon playing in the church with a choir singing.

I love all of the green spaces around the city. I hike up the hill in the evening to watch the barely existent sunset through the forest. The view of the islands and town is grand, and it is nice to be in nature after seeing so much of it from the bus.

The old town is actually quite small, consisting of palace remains. It is a Roman complex built by one of the last Roman emperors, Diocletian, who fled here as refugee. I happen to bump into a marvelous temple of Jupiter, complete with an Egyptian sphinx. I peer through the keyhole to see a giant bronze statue of Zeus. Diocletian’s palace became converted into a towering cathedral, but the Roman architectural style remains.

Temple of Jupiter

Cathedral bell tower

Diocletian’s palace

Many Romanesque buildings and churches decorate the rest of the city. Gothic archways, crests of prominent families, and religious imagery are everywhere. A giant bronze statue of a priest stands next to a church tower and main palace entrance.

There are many market stalls outside the city walls and I have the best cevapi with cheese and red pepper spread, a traditional Croatian street food.

Underneath the Roman palace is a subterranean complex of tunnels, necessary to stabilize the palace in the challenging topography of the Croatian coastline. It is fascinating and contains fragments of the palace and explanations of what it would have looked like when it was built in the 3rd century. Some of the bricks are etched with a menorah, a sign that the builder was Jewish.

The palace is mostly the retirement home of megalomaniac and former Roman emperor Diocletian. He pillaged pillars from existing temples (note the purple Egyptian marble pillars below) and stole 12 Egyptian sphinxes. They are also further repurposed further in the cathedral and tower.

Dubrovnik (2/2)

Posted on December 14 by krauss-ingtheworld

My second day in Dubrovnik I do a self-guided tour, going through the film set locations intentionally despite having walked past most of them already. I am surprised how much is CGI and how little was actually filmed on location. There are some cool spots, like the stairs of Circe’s infamous “walk of shame.”

Circe (Season 4) took her walk of shame down these stairs

I buy the $30 Dubrovnik pass to access the wall. It is not worth it alone, but it includes access to all the museums as well. I love to see the city from above, like Arya Stark chasing cats on the roofs of King’s Landing. It is a great view of the city and I can see down all the steep alleyways. I also see old ruins of churches and old buildings never rebuilt. I duck for cover from the rain under the turrets of the tower. This is where Daenerys had her dragons taken in Qarth (Game of Thrones, season 2).

The view over the city is the same as Kings landing, minus the CGI castles. And it is beautiful with the stormy sea.

This is where Princess Marcella is sent off to sea (season 2; the fortress is a stand in for the Red Keep).

Continuing along the back wall provides views of secret gardens in peoples’ yards that are not visible from the street. Further along, there is a great view from the docks looking out into the city. I stand here awhile, enjoying the view, and the sun comes out! I enjoy the rest of the day in the sun, finishing my tour of the wall and visiting the fortress.

The fortress is where Vaerys and Tyrion watch the Battle of Black Water Bay and is also where Joffrey has his name day tourney (Season 2). I take in the great views of the old city and surrounding sea.

I check out the old pharmacy—still in operation through a different means, with an exhibit on the traditional apothecary. The cloisters and murals are grand.

The highlight is the Rector’s palace. The governing center for Dubrovnik since medieval times, the Venetian style building is also the interior for the home of the spice King of Qarth (season 2). Just look at these iconic staircases! The interior is filled with art and relics from the ages and houses ancient artifacts as well.

I visit the folk museum and the maritime museum because they are included, but they are a bit lackluster. I learn Dubrovnik became renowned because of its grain trade housed in an old grain warehouse. The final museum is a natural history museum with taxidermy specimens of the region. The taxidermy is quite awful, which is amusing, but I do ID some species I have seen, like a bittern. Some deep sea creatures are on display too.

Dubrovnik is certainly the coolest historic city I’ve visited on this trip, but a lot of it has been repaired since bombings by Serbians in the early ’90s. They’ve done a remarkable job with restoration, making it worth the extra costs associated due to Game of Thrones fame.

Dubrovnik (1/2)

Posted on December 7 by krauss-ingtheworld

En route from Kotor to Dubrovnik I have a stopover in the Montenegrin town of Herzeg Novi. The citadel is closed, and what’s an old city without its citadel? I still see many old buildings inside the historic walls, including the springs that led to the formation of this town. I enjoy walking around the fortress walls and and up the alleyways until the main square. Here there is a church with lots of Sunday worshipers.

There is a clock tower in the shape of a castle turret, but not much is notable about the city. It makes for a nice “layover” until the next bus, which I barely catch.

Not much changes upon entering Croatia except for the currency, which is about to change to euros in a month. The road continues along the coast, mountains towering over the gulf of Kotor.

Dubrovnik and its offshore island are instantly recognizable from the road above. If you’ve seen Game of Thrones, this town is the film set for “Kings Landing,” minus a CGI castle and other buildings.

The huge fortress walls and large tower remain intact. I bus over to the old city, forsaking the iconic main entrance for the one to the rear near where I am staying. Up some stairs and down another, I have safely arrived inside the walls of another UNESCO world heritage site.

I walk down the steep steps to the main plaza. I suppose this could be the Sept of Baylor, as it is a Game of Thrones set location, but I don’t recognize anything except for the classic Venetian architectural elements.

I wander around the windy port and up the passageways along the coastline, which drops down to the rocks and turbulent waters. I traverse the edge of the city through all the tunnels and plant lined alleys filled with cats. I follow the stairs down like a pinball finding its route down to the bottom in the classic arcade game. I reach the main drag filled with different pattern lampshades and Game of Thrones merchandise. Bars and restaurants are mostly closed but some are open, blasting “Kings & Queens.” How fitting!

A statue of the character Tyrion from Game of Thrones

I walk up to watch the sunset shine through the clouds from a viewpoint just above the city wall.

The city is charming at night all a-glow. The church and clock tower of the main square are particularly nice, as are the fortress turrets. The alleys are a bit tricky and even dangerous to navigate, especially when wet. I retire up the stairs to rest before exploring more the next day.

Kotor

Posted on November 30 by krauss-ingtheworld

The drive along the coast is stunning, but now the mountains get larger and larger as we approach the gulf of Kotor.

The town itself seems ordinary enough at first with a bustling Saturday market, until I approach closer and notice the fortress walls behind it.

The entire old town is surrounded by the fortress, and walking through the main entrance is like entering another world. Venetian architecture abound, I wander through the alleyways to drop my luggage off at my apartment in this UNESCO world heritage site.

I have some time to kill before check-in, so I decide to visit the small coastal town of Perast. I wait a short while at a bus stop, debating with a taxi driver whether to just go with him for 10€, when he drives off and the bus shows up after a 15 minute wait. He says tutto sbagliato qui (everything is wrong here) when asked about why the bus stop is on the other side of the street. I get on, the bus does a four point turn past where the bus stop is supposed to be, and continues on the coast.

This part of the coastline is the most scenic with the shimmering turquoise water and the mountains in the background. I try to take as many bus window pictures I can until I arrive at the town. Finally I can capture the landscape!

But first I have to walk up. I go along the harbor, looking out at the island monasteries. I follow my way up and down each of the passages, careful to explore every alley I can. I am glad, because I find church ruins overgrown with vegetation that is just magical. The view over the ocean and the church tower is grand.

The town is very cute with traditional Venetian architecture along the hilly slope. I make it down at last in time for the bus back.

I make it back to Kotor only to find I still have time before I can check in. I finally get to explore this (much flatter) old city. There are many medieval churches (some dating back to the 11th and 10th centuries) and plenty of Venetian decor, including crests and insignias from prominent Italian families (such as Lombardi, for example). I wander down each alleyway—notables include an old-style post box, a 400 year old poplar tree, and the sparkling green moat under the drawbridge where I’m staying.

After trying many disappointing, watery sorbet, I finally have some delicious chocolate and cherry gelato at Castelisisimo that I carry with me to keep cool as I explore the city.

After exploring every last Venetian ruin and alley, I can finally check in. The apartment looks like what living in a UNESCO world heritage site would, with brick decor and a moldy bathroom, but it is freshly painted and renovated.

I hike up the fortress, taking the route known as “the ladder of Kotor.” It is a winding rocky path up the hill under the white craggy mountains. It is spectacular looking out at the gulf, but the view only improves as I climb higher towards the fortress.

I sure have fun storming the castle! There is a ladder at the end of the path where you can climb through a window into the fortress. It is mostly just steps, so I go up to the very top.

Here there are all sorts of rooms and caves from the ruins of the fortress. There is a fantastic view of the mountains all around, and I stay and watch as the sun casts its red glow on the mountains behind me.