budget travel | Krauss-ing The World

Neolithic village

Posted on January 25 by krauss-ingtheworld

I stop over in the neolithic village of Choirokoitia. Well, I try to, but I don’t recognize the stop, and the driver continues past the neolithic village entrance. After a panicked discussion with the driver, I am dropped off at a Mcdonalds and walk 45 minutes on the side of the road to get back. I leave my luggage at a bakery near the entrance and have a delicious pumpkin, rice and raisin pie.

The neolithic village is so worth it! The reconstruction of the houses involved archeologists and local builders who understand the traditional construction methods of the area. They tried to recreate the houses based on how they suspect it would have been made with mud bricks covered with earthen plaster.

I continue up the trail to see the foundations dating back to the 7th millennium BCE! I have never been to ruins so old before. It is interesting how the walls look like they could have been made in medieval times, but they’re all free of metal and simply use materials from Cyprus. The wall also does not appear to be defensive, but more of a community-defining feature, which is cute. Rocks jut out, which would be easy to climb anyways. The entrance is hidden, however, with a concealed staircase going up towards the houses. Only the circular foundations remain. Some features are visible, and it is really interesting following the wall down outside to the “newer” edge of the settlement, as they expanded beyond the enclosure over the millennia as the settlement grew.

I visit another bakery for a halloumi pie and don’t have to wait long for the next bus. I arrive in Larnaca, surprised to find quaint Ottoman architecture remaining on the streets surrounding the grand mosque. I don’t go inside, but I appreciate it from the exterior. It is next to a medieval fortress, but I also decide not to enter after visiting so many others on this trip. I also pass the famous cathedral of Lazarus (the guy who was resurrected, supposedly, and buried a second time here). The cloisters seem charming, but I instead opt for ruins.

These are the remains of the temple of the great goddess of Cyprus, a Mycenaean precursor to Aphrodite. The palace has drawings and inscriptions on the walls, some of which are indicative of boats. There are foundations of ancient baths and a small pool and several column foundations. Lots of walls and building foundations remain. These are over three thousand years old—the oldest being almost four thousand. It is cool to see how the bricks are laid and how that changes with the arrival of the Greeks.

Boat symbol (note the triangle shape of a sail)

I explore the town a bit and admire the Ottoman style. This is the first I’ve seen of it on Cyprus, though I recognize it immediately from the Balkans. I head over to the salt lake, just on a hunch to do some birding despite the on and off rain. Luggage in tow, I chuck it beneath a theater then go off trail to see the lake. The stormy clouds in the distance are menacing. The sun pierces through and creates a dramatic backdrop, which is reflected in the calm lake. It is muddy, and red with algae; I slip and slide as I approach on the mud flats to reach the lake. I am thrilled to see hundreds of flamingos feeding at the shoreline. They pose as they walk calmly through the water, though a bunch of them take off flying across. It is majestic watching them feed, and I can hear the sound of them swishing their bills against the sand. There are so many of them, some pinker than others, and they walk gracefully across in a procession beneath the dramatic sky.

Paphos

Posted on January 1 by krauss-ingtheworld

It is great to be in the warm sun again! I shed my layers and walk around with my luggage along the Cyprus coastline to embrace the warm wind. I notice tunnels along an ancient wall above the coastal walk. After dropping off my luggage I return to investigate.

There are tunnels all throughout the hillside like a labyrinth. I feel like Lara Croft: Tomb Raider as I duck inside the narrow passageways, climbing into a larger chamber, then navigating to the other caves. There is a large central entrance that branches off in dozens of directions. It is a maze; I’m certain I explore it all, but who knows? It is really remarkable, and I seem to be the only one inside for the moment. There is a Roman mural too and what looks like an old stadium of some kind.

Curious, I check out the archeological park. To my surprise, there are dozens of ancient Roman villa remains from the Hellenistic period. There are so many remaining pillars, columns and foundations of the buildings still intact. Others are left behind swept to the side, making for a perfect picnic spot as I gaze off to the sea and contemplate what the palace must have looked like.

Dozens of Roman mosaics, in the best condition I’ve seen, dazzle with remarkable geometric patterns and symbols. Many have vibrant colors and detail iconic scenes of lore. The Minotaur, the legend of Dionysus, his colonization of India, Achilles, Leda and the swan, and Scylla from The Odyssey all make appearances. My favorite is a hunting scene in the house, with a dog used to hunt by the looks of it.

I make my way across a ruined Christian temple and towards the ancient agora. Little remains of this massive complex except a theater and neighboring house of healing (purpose debated). The view from up top is grand. There is a lot of natural vegetation, incorporated in the formation of the archeological park, as this is critical habitat for migratory birds.

My last stop is the temple of Apollo or underground passageways of Phoenicians. I almost miss it, but I happen to stumble upon one of the entrances. I go down expecting to get lost, but somehow the maze of tunnels seems more organized.

The caves are more like tombs, and some have very small niches and grooves. A lot of the rooms are more cozy, and there is less mess than the tunnels outside the park. I explore this amazing remnant of history, pondering its purpose, until my stomach urges me to check in to my hotel.

Skadar lake

Posted on November 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

The mountains around Bar are just spectacular. It is unbelievable the whole way through to Virpazar, the town along Skadar lake. I go to hike around a bit, but get suckered into a boat tour around the lake.

It is really nice going through the marsh wetlands. Cormorants, herons, seagulls and even a hawk fly by as the boat cruises along. The seagulls don’t seem to mind. Through the reeds, the boat offers fantastic views of the mountains rising up out of the lake, islands that house Ottoman towers, monasteries and protected forest reserves. They look magnificent reflected in the lake and with the Albanian alps as a backdrop.

I hitchhike up the road to the viewpoint, with fantastic views of the mountains surrounding the lake on the way. The lake transitions to narrow rivers and wetlands. I make it to the viewpoint after frantic hitchhiking but don’t make it back before dark. I stay the night in the town nearby, committed to return in the morning and make it back to Bar where I left my luggage.

It is totally worth staying overnight for the sunrise glow illuminating the misty swamps. The rivers have a greenish hue, and the mountains are hauntingly backlit. It is a peaceful walk up to the lookout, and I take lots of pictures at the viewpoint. I walk down and get some snacks before hitchhiking back. A couple from Montenegro speak no English but manage to get me halfway to Virpazar. Another couple from New York picks me up after and takes me all the way back to Bar to collect my luggage. The journey is eventful with a cat they’ve picked up along the way, but I make it back to Bar just in time to miss the bus.

I take the opportunity to walk around Bar a bit. The town has a little median of grass that stretches through like a lane way. It provides cool shade as I step out onto the hot harbor. It is not extraordinary, but there are fancy houses along the way, including a palace. The orthodox church is quite impressive as well!

Tirana & Shkodër

Posted on November 8 by krauss-ingtheworld

I am not sure what I was expecting in Albania’s capital. The modern architecture is quite unique in Tirana. It has a lot of rainbows and color for such a homophobic country, which I quickly discover. It’s isolation and communist dictatorship has left a patriarchal and traditional culture, despite not being religious. The lack of theocracy allows both Islam and Christian groups to practice in an otherwise secular society. I hear a call to prayer at the mosque for the Islam practitioners.

The central mosque is stunning, as is the clock tower at its side. There are several large impressive government buildings, all built by the Italians in their style during occupation. The dictator’s house is rather humble surprisingly, surrounded by communist dormitories in the communist block. I could have stayed in one, but for 10 dollars more I just got a nice apartment in the city center.

I scarf down the best falafel of my life at Opa’s greek. I only eat here despite all the restaurants in Tirana because it is close, quick and I am ravenous. I’m not a food blogger, but the falafel is so creamy and topped with red peppers and a green sauce that is divine.

There isn’t much open at the time of my visit, and the main pyramid and bunker museum is closed. I leave with little interest in going to museums, feeling burnt out from seeing so many artifacts the last few weeks. Instead, I walk around the lake and forest enjoying the waterfowl, and I even spot some new birds.

No matter how hard I try I just cannot remember how to pronounce Shkodër. Surrounded by beautiful wetlands and protected areas, mountains and a lake, I miss all of it. There is an early morning shuttle to the Albanian alps, but the forecast calls for rain, and three hours in a shuttle on a windy road seems not so worthwhile to me.

I instead take my time to wander around the old town. It is very quaint; stone paths and small restaurants line the several blocks of the city center. I have some delicious Italian food—beet risotto with grilled vegetables on the side—for half the price of Italy, and just as tasty. Maybe I just hadn’t eaten vegetables in so long? There is even a cute kitten at the restaurant entrance to greet me.

There are several mosques and monuments around the center, but I have to leave on the first bus to Montenegro. I actually get to the station to ask the departure schedules for the day just as the bus to Podgorica is leaving. Luckily, there is one to Ulcinj, and it turns out this town is much better to stay in than the Montenegrin capital apparently.

So I leave Albania, without a visit to the lake or fortress, though I do get to see it again as I pass by in the shuttle. At this point, I’m not mourning the missed opportunity of seeing yet another Venetian fortress. But the surrounding nature reserves seem really nice.

I don’t see any dragons, but overall I enjoy my time passing through Albania. The beaches I visit are beautiful, the ruins and towns full of well-preserved history, and the mountains look spectacular.

Zagreb

Posted on June 30 by krauss-ingtheworld

I pick the cheapest flight out of Brussels towards the south of Europe, mostly influenced by the warmer weather and the cheaper prices. I’m glad I chose Zagreb. The last-minute accommodation is super nice and cheap ($15 for my own bed/shared bathroom with 2 really cool Canadians).

The Austrian-Hungarian empire strongly influenced the style of the city center with buildings featuring reliefs, sculptures, and other typical Viennese styles. The others show heavy art nouveau influence. Besides the beautiful buildings around the central plaza and monuments, there is a large cathedral fortified with medieval reinforcements to fend of Mongol invaders.

I try delicious Croatian classic of štrukli, cheese over what is almost like a lasagna, but it is more doughy than pasta. It is delicious, though I add some red pepper for flavor.

I try the kremšnita, a popular custard slice found throughout the region. The crème is almost like marshmellow. I never had custard like this before.

The city has a funky vibe at night along Tesla street—named after famed scientist Nicola Tesla.

I wander the main street to the upper part of town, stopping to sample delicious spiced wine. I walk up through remnants of the old town wall, where there is a shrine to the Virgin Mary. People are devout in prayer as I pass through towards the church. It is lined with palaces and government buildings. The church is covered in mosaic tiles like in Vienna, but I like this pattern better. I walk along the edge of the promenade towards an archeological park, where there are the remains of a fortress.

The rest of the city reveals busy market places selling flowers and vegetables and lots of art nouveau buildings.

I take the rest of my day after seeing all the main sites to visit the park and collect lots of mosquito bites and turtle photos. Zagreb is a great introduction to the Balkan peninsula with its green spaces, cuisine, and easy navigability.

Return to Prague

Posted on May 22 by krauss-ingtheworld

I watch the clouds burn red as the sun sets over Prague, casting golden light on the historic buildings.

I am delighted to be back in this beautiful medieval city, wandering around the perfectly crafted old town.

Opera house

It is Yom Kippur, so after checking into my new hostel I go to the Jewish quarter. Here is one of the oldest synagogues in the world, continuously in use since the 13th century. I pass the “Jewish test” by security to get inside, answering questions about the holidays and my background. Inside is quite plain and humble, yet elaborate at the same time. Gothic buttresses support the vaulted ceilings, quite rare for synagogues, but in style at the time.

Sneak peak of the butresses and windows over the ark

Vines and plants are carved into the doorways and columns. The ark has similar craftsmanship, with two windows showing the Star of David and an opposing geometric shape. It is men only, and I come in during a silent prayer. I don a kippah and quickly find my place, recognizing the Hatzi Kaddish and “L’dor v’dor,” but even then the tune is unfamiliar. A beautiful prayer follows that I don’t recognize, and the whole service is Yom Kippur edition. They pray all day long! There is a prayer where they get on their hands and knees bowing towards the ark at the mention of “Cohenim,” the holy priests.

I wander again through the historic center, resting a bit before going up to the castle. As it turns out it is closed for a political summit, but I still catch a nice sunset with some mulled wine.

I dine at the same restaurant as last time having the same dish, but as a dessert I order poppyseed dumplings. I’m surprised it is sweet, drizzled with butter.

Fortunately, I can visit another fortress past the new town. This area was bombed by accident during WWII (American bombers lost in the fog thought they were targeting Dresden), but was rebuilt with some unique structures.

Cubic architecture, inspired by cubism and unique to Prague

The fortress has a fancy entrance gate and a small church. The sun feels good as I wander the walls lined with gardens high above the Danube river and city.

The fortress surrounds a beautifully decorated cathedral, Vysehrad, with a rainbow gilded biblical scene on the outside doors. The interior looks exquisite. I have an equally exquisite dinner at the foot of the fortress before heading out.

The next day I explore a beautiful park on a hillside overlooking the city. I walk down to the central marketplace and dine on kolaches and strudel.

I take the tram up to Petrin hill overlooking the city. There is a monestery and some other attractions, but I opt for a hike down through the vineyards past old ruins.

I finally dine on a goulash bread bowl , and it is everything I’d hoped for.

On my last day, I try all the foods at a market along the river, including soup and potato pancakes with cheese and black currant mulled wine.

This is the first time in a month that I’d been traveling completely alone, though I haven’t been this happy solo-traveling since Norway.

I check out a cool island in the river before heading over to the edgy Karlin district park, a soviet block repurposed as a community space.

I enjoy one last sunset up on a hill before leaving on a bus for the Netherlands later that night.

Sinai

Posted on May 4, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

Arriving in Sharm El sheik, the city of peace, is fairly straightforward.

We arrive at what appears to be a really fancy resort. The main lobby is filled with Russian-speakers, and most of the signage is in Russian as well. We get carted around the vast resort complex to the end, where we realize the owner of an apartment falsely rented out her room under the guise of the resort. I use my Italian to speak with the owner and review the paperwork, for most of the guests here are also from Italy. Exhausted and not willing to be bothered, we agreeing to pay the $20 in surplus charges beyond the booking rate and go to sleep.

It turns out to be a great deal nevertheless.

Taking advantage of resort amenities like a pool and some snacks, we sign up for scuba diving lesson. I am nervous for Natalia, who can’t swim, but it is a certified dive shop, which eases my worries a bit.

The beach is nearby with crystal clear water. I walk along the shoreline and down the pier. As I gaze into the water, I am shocked to see such lively coral. Blue, pink, purple colors mix with parrot fish and painted triggerfish darting at the surface.

After some hesitation, Natalia gets to experience scuba diving and a coral reef for the first time as I happily snorkel away along the reef crest. There are so many different kinds of healthy, vibrant coral, and I’m surprised to see green cabbage coral. I see new fish too, a purple spotted grouper and some kind of rainbow wrasse. There are lots of soft coral I get to enjoy as I get my turn to dive down. I even see an anemone and its resident clownfish. I go about halfway down the reef before it’s time to turn around, which I’m grateful for, as they gave me a tank low in oxygen to start with !

Saudi Arabia lies across the Red Sea in the background

I leave my bathing suit behind in a rush to get back to the lobby for our cab that will take us back to the border. The long drive up the coast of Sinai passes some beautiful mountains and castles. I glance out at Saudi Arabia across the Red Sea. Everything is smooth on exit, I get my camera lens back, and we even make the last bus back to Tel Aviv, where we say our goodbyes the following day.

Glacier Walk

Posted on January 26, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

I walk back through the woods until dusk, and it is dark as I wander past the cottages and restaurants towards the city center. Zermatt is bustling on a Saturday night, and I have surprisingly good Mexican tacos and a quesadilla for dinner. It is the only reasonably priced food in town too.

I summit the next morning to the base of Matterhorn via cable-car. It is pricey, but it’s my birthday weekend after all, so I zip up the cable car after a long line, with every other car going to VIP customers who are served breakfast along the way.

To be fair the gondola ride is really long, so they deserve some snack breaks, but at every stop the poor workers were so stressed preparing for the next car to serve just in time. It was entertaining to watch with the fit Swiss couple that joined me on the gondola up. I just want to take pictures of the beautiful snow covered mountains and glaciers that come into the view, but I stay to my side of the car, and notice another glacier and valley on the other side of Matterhorn. The couple will hike up to the top, they say.

My view from the gondola. This is the way I hike back down!

I hop off at the next stop and admire the reflection of Matterhorn in a lake. The valley formed by the retreating glacier gives the vibe of a construction site at first. Beautiful glaciers and mountains to either side frame Matterhorn nicely.

Informative signs explain native vegetation and how layers of life come to colonize the soil after a glacier retreats. I try to understand the geology scrapings of rocks. Most goes over my head, but there are nice explanations of different rock colors and formations. There is a different term for everything it seems, but this is probably the best geology science communication I’ve seen!

It is really cool to see the glacier tunnels carved by water flowing through. I would love to just peek inside, but it is too dangerous.

This hike offers the best view so far of Matterhorn and surrounding glaciers. Why did I not notice these glaciers before? At a different angle maybe I can see more of the mountains then when hiking underneath it.

I hike up a little bit higher just to see the surroundings. I see the couple from the gondola returning and ask if the view at the top is worth it–and the girl bluntly says, “no”. The rainclouds begin rolling in so I turn back.

I walk down to Zermatt very slowly, savouring the views of the glaciers. I stop to rest on almost every bench to have a snack and look for marmots and birds.

I walk along the beautiful side valley I saw this morning with the hidden side arm of the glacier and snow-covered face of Matterhorn. I’m glad I accidentally take the longer path down, as it is more gradual and very scenic through meadows and forests.

I cross a dam using hydroelectric power from the glacial flow; it is interesting to see how people have modified the landscape; the whole area is like one big pasture in some places! I leave the forest for more residential areas, nibbling on wild raspberries and appreciating the flowers and insects all the way down.

Oeschinensee

Posted on January 23, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

At this point Switzerland was beginning to get to me. I was paying as much as I normally would to sleep in a bed to rent a spot at a crowded campsite. The trains were double the price they should have been. I was feeling like I should have continued wild camping around Norway with those breathtaking views. However, I find a spontaneous detour to hike around a turquoise lake, and it makes all the difference.

My mood is instantly better once I take the more reasonably priced cable-car to get some height and see the bright green lake surrounded by the mountains. For some reason the mountain views alone haven’t been satisfying for me. Or perhaps it’s all the junk food, uncertainty in travel planning, and questioning if I’m on the right path.

Once I hike a bit higher up along the lake and take an energy block, a butterfly lands on me as if it is an omen. It stays with me until I regain the strength to hike up the cliffside on my own. At the top, the view improves so I can see the full scale of the surrounding mountains.

Walking along the cliffs is scary, but Norway prepared me well. I walk with ease along the edge, grateful the path is flat, until I get to the overlook of the lake.

Waterfalls cascade downward into the emerald pool. The kayaks paddling below look like pond skimmers. I eat my snacks and chat with a couple from San Diego who know the guy who reintroduced the california condor with the San Diego zoo. They hiked across all the way from Lauterbrunnen, while I just took the the train!

I make my way quickly down to return to the lake now that the lighting is better. However, now the clouds roll in, providing shade on this hot summer day, yet obscuring the view.

I take the cable car down, and a family from Saudi Arabia joins me in my car. I retrieve my backpack from where I hid it in the bushes and continue on the train south through the alps.

Mungebu

Posted on October 21, 2022 by krauss-ingtheworld

I sit on the summit watching the clouds roll in over the Reinefjord. Similar to Reinebringen, this hike has a panoramic lookout over this most iconic of fjords.

The view is stunning, and I luck out with timing as the sun is on full display, turning the fjord bright turquoise around the shallower parts. The peaks look great from this angle as well, and it seems as if I can see further to the next mountain range.

The clouds wrap around the familiar peaks of Bunes, which is how I first saw them.

On the way up, I pass the Mungebu hut where backpackers can spend a night. It is at the top of a mountain that makes my jaw drop every time I cross the bridge on the road below. Yet here at the top the view looks out onto a lake cascading into another lake with a spiky mountain backdrop, reminding me of Torres del Paine.

More mountain peaks come into view as I arrive at the summit. They disappear as quickly as they appear since the clouds roll in to smother the peaks.

The start of the trail requires hiking alongside a very muddy lake. I climb up using chains past these snow covered mountains up to another lake. This path is still damp from all the wet weather. My boots get soaked and I struggle to keep my footing, sliding on my butt in the mudd. The view at the top near the cabin makes it worthwhile.

Filled with energy, I finish the steep, muddy climb to the summit to take in this spectacular view.

As if I couldn’t be more grateful for this view, as I watch the clouds roll in over the lake a sea eagle swoops down and flies overhead.

I begin the descent realizing I am not on the path I came up. I am grateful that it is easier, but I am unnerved as there is no signal to check the map I downloaded. Luckily I follow someone who tells me that it is the path back.

I see a rock ptarmigan, a bird in the grouse family, and her chicks darting about before the descent. A local who passed me earlier mentioned there are many different paths to return, and while this is less touristy, it is indeed the path I intended. He pointed out the path that veers off and he speeds ahead. I take my time admiring the higher vantage point over the lakes and cliffs as the clouds continue to come. Then it begins to sprinkle and I continue hustling along.

At first it is very muddy; I feel bad trampling precious alpine vegetation to avoid getting muddy. There is a flat bog with no way around and my feet get soaked. I think I made a mistake going off the main tourist path again, and that maybe it would be easier to stick to the most popular paths.

However, it is actually not so bad past this lake, which turns out to be a dam. I see the campground below and continue down the steep path. I am told how tricky it is, but going down is not so bad at all, even less muddy then the other path. I make it back safely, though a bit muddy, to the campsite below.