ottoman | Krauss-ing The World

Nicosia

Posted on February 8 by krauss-ingtheworld

The city of Nicosia is really interesting and seems more polished on the Cypriot side. I walk down the main laneway through the shops to the Turkish border. It is the easiest border crossing of my life; I wait in a short line, scan my passport on both sides, then cross through. I check in at my dingy communal style hotel and set off to explore.

The old town seems a bit rundown but authentic in some way. Many more houses are in the Ottoman style. The Turkish people here saw themselves as an oppressed minority under Cypriot rule, and the Turkish occupation that invaded and took over the Northern half of Cyprus are considered “liberators.” At least according to the informational signs. Are the residents here content to be separate from the rest of Cyprus? Graffiti near the border crossing calls for “One Cyprus,” though this stance is controversial on the Turkish side.

I walk the recommended route around the Northern half of the city. The walls are Venetian but resemble Lucca’s in that they can be climbed and walked along like a park. They blend seamlessly into the city, and one end has been developed with restaurants and cafes and a park. The park is bordered by barbed wire along the border with a large UN tower, but the children play nonetheless.

There are cute alleys with Ottoman architecture that lead to the main marketplace. Doner kebabs, Turkish delights, and the smell of incense are everywhere, as are all the typical tourist traps. There is an interesting hub I suspect is a mosque, but it is really a central marketplace selling arts and crafts and a restaurant. It is called a Han, and this one was built in the 15th century. There are others that are smaller nearby, as well as mosques, although the grand mosque is under construction. The map leads me through the neighborhood and back up to the wall, so I return to the marketplace for a yummy pide, a cheesy Turkish flatbread.

Back on the Greek side, I have a classic spinach and cheese pie as I set off along the Venetian wall. There are public gardens and monuments lining the preserved segments of wall, though most has been refurbished by the British, leaving a singular entrance intact at the end. The other is under construction, unfortunately. There are lots of important buildings in this area for the archbishop, including a church and the Archbishop’s palace, housed in a recently renovated ottoman-style building. The classic ottoman alleys line most of the streets, though they are more recently renovated than the northern side.

I go up the high tower for a view and a blatantly biased history lesson from above the city. The mountains towering in the background look great despite the gloomy sky. Any mentions of a Turkish revolt shortly after the establishment of Cyprus fail to divulge that equal rights were quickly undermined by sweeping reforms to discriminate against and minoritize the Turkish inhabitants.

I continue meandering the traditional shopping area of the main street under the covered flags and mosaic walkways. Unsuccessful on this side, I cross the border to get a bamboo towel.

I watch a whirling dervish spin and twirl around. I remember learning about the Sufi ritual in my AP world civilizations class. Every step is symbolic from the dress to the movements. It is mesmerizing to watch, and he takes lots of meditative breaks between whirls (to stop from getting too dizzy, I suppose). I am dizzy just watching.

I cross back over the border for a final meal of moussaka (with the same restaurant and waiting staff that served Bill Clinton on his monumental visit to Cyprus). Clinton ordered the zucchini balls and some chips, or so I’m told by the waiter, who proudly shows me his photo with Clinton on the wall. I am treated to a mastika shot, which tastes woody and herbal like the mastic ice cream, but it is sweet. It is not so strong—I like it better than Ouzo.

I cross back one last time to the Turkish side. But not before stopping by a queer community space that caught my eye! There is an exhibit on anthologies of queer literature, including books on BDSM, military trade, and a book called Sex Ecologies that was fascinating to skim through. It reminded me of the importance of breaking the boundaries imposed by science and western patriarchy on the natural world. The lizards and birds here have no respect for a border wall.

The journey back to Paphos goes seamlessly. I chuck my luggage under the bus station info center and do some last-minute shopping around the old Paphos marketplace. I have one last souvlaki (delicious with spicy feta), my first carob ice cream, and one last bus ride to the airport for a final halloumi and pumpkin pie.

Neolithic village

Posted on January 25 by krauss-ingtheworld

I stop over in the neolithic village of Choirokoitia. Well, I try to, but I don’t recognize the stop, and the driver continues past the neolithic village entrance. After a panicked discussion with the driver, I am dropped off at a Mcdonalds and walk 45 minutes on the side of the road to get back. I leave my luggage at a bakery near the entrance and have a delicious pumpkin, rice and raisin pie.

The neolithic village is so worth it! The reconstruction of the houses involved archeologists and local builders who understand the traditional construction methods of the area. They tried to recreate the houses based on how they suspect it would have been made with mud bricks covered with earthen plaster.

I continue up the trail to see the foundations dating back to the 7th millennium BCE! I have never been to ruins so old before. It is interesting how the walls look like they could have been made in medieval times, but they’re all free of metal and simply use materials from Cyprus. The wall also does not appear to be defensive, but more of a community-defining feature, which is cute. Rocks jut out, which would be easy to climb anyways. The entrance is hidden, however, with a concealed staircase going up towards the houses. Only the circular foundations remain. Some features are visible, and it is really interesting following the wall down outside to the “newer” edge of the settlement, as they expanded beyond the enclosure over the millennia as the settlement grew.

I visit another bakery for a halloumi pie and don’t have to wait long for the next bus. I arrive in Larnaca, surprised to find quaint Ottoman architecture remaining on the streets surrounding the grand mosque. I don’t go inside, but I appreciate it from the exterior. It is next to a medieval fortress, but I also decide not to enter after visiting so many others on this trip. I also pass the famous cathedral of Lazarus (the guy who was resurrected, supposedly, and buried a second time here). The cloisters seem charming, but I instead opt for ruins.

These are the remains of the temple of the great goddess of Cyprus, a Mycenaean precursor to Aphrodite. The palace has drawings and inscriptions on the walls, some of which are indicative of boats. There are foundations of ancient baths and a small pool and several column foundations. Lots of walls and building foundations remain. These are over three thousand years old—the oldest being almost four thousand. It is cool to see how the bricks are laid and how that changes with the arrival of the Greeks.

Boat symbol (note the triangle shape of a sail)

I explore the town a bit and admire the Ottoman style. This is the first I’ve seen of it on Cyprus, though I recognize it immediately from the Balkans. I head over to the salt lake, just on a hunch to do some birding despite the on and off rain. Luggage in tow, I chuck it beneath a theater then go off trail to see the lake. The stormy clouds in the distance are menacing. The sun pierces through and creates a dramatic backdrop, which is reflected in the calm lake. It is muddy, and red with algae; I slip and slide as I approach on the mud flats to reach the lake. I am thrilled to see hundreds of flamingos feeding at the shoreline. They pose as they walk calmly through the water, though a bunch of them take off flying across. It is majestic watching them feed, and I can hear the sound of them swishing their bills against the sand. There are so many of them, some pinker than others, and they walk gracefully across in a procession beneath the dramatic sky.

Sarajevo

Posted on December 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

Sarajevo is a city of historical importance for many reasons. It is the site of Franz Ferdinand’s assassination that initiated World War II. Many museums commemorate the horrific genocide of Bosnians. Historically, Sarajevo was a place of intercultural tolerance. Jews, Muslims and Christians coexisted in the city under Ottoman rule for centuries. Marks of this civilization remain more prominent than in the other Balkan states, with the characteristic Ottoman architectural style dating back to the 15th century on some streets and markets.

The mosques cover the city with their lead domes and minarets. The old market place carries on the centuries old tradition, although the wares have changed. The indoor marketplace is restored; much was damaged during the attacks.

I take a break from the rain in one of these market stalls, where I have some spinach burek covered in a heavy cream.

I walk up the river past a cemetery to check out the fortress surrounding old Ottoman palaces. The palaces are in disarray, but the fortress has an exhibit on the first president of Bosnia & Herzegovina. I return along the river, facing the neo-Moorish decor of the town hall and the Latin bridge where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, sparking World War I.

Cemetery
Palaces in decay
View from the fortress
Fortress entrance
Moorish town hall
Bench commemorating where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated

I shop along the Austro-Hungarian architecture of the main boulevard for a delicious Cevapi and stuffed vegetables in the main marketplace.

As the sun sets I visit the old Jewish cemetery of Sarajevo near where I’m staying. The bridges light up, illuminating the river as I stroll back after dark.

It is interesting to learn how several governments for each state (Bosnia & Herzegovina, and the Serbian republic of Srpska). I pass through Srpska on the way out of Bosnia towards Zagreb.

Mostar

Posted on December 26 by krauss-ingtheworld

Bosnia & Herzegovina is a nice surprise. At the suggestion of my local mentor/buddy from the year above me on my program, I go up to Zagreb through B & H. After a complex border crossing (several bus passengers are refused entry, so there is a long wait) I’m in the country. It is stormy, so being along the ocean is no longer so nice, though there are still beautiful views of clouds cupping the mountains along the steep coastline. It is beautiful going into the hills of Croatia, though B & H flattens out some.

It is odd coming here on the Memorial Day honoring those who died in the attacks on Croatia by the Serbians as part of the collapsing Yugoslavia. There are candle displays in Split, and the first thing I notice when getting off the bus in Mostar is all the genocide memorials and museums. There are still mountains in the background, and I book it through the modern city in the rain to the historic center.

There are lots of cafes, bars and street murals along the apartments. Many are beautiful symbolic works featuring nature and culture.

The old city shifts starkly with its old cobblestone streets that are tricky to navigate in the rain. The main street is filled with tourist shops in old stone buildings. There is a river flowing through it, and the multiple layers of buildings give it a more dynamic feel.

In the background are old administrative buildings and a cathedral towering over the town. I don’t make it up to them, but I do cross the bridge. This bridge is iconic, yet it has recently been restored. The view is wonderful of the green river flowing underneath past the stone Ottoman-style buildings complete with a mountain backdrop.

The other side of the river has a similar feel to the main street, albeit with pastel colored buildings and traditional window shutters. The view of the bridge is better than the bridge itself, especially with all the minaret towers from the Ottoman buildings. There are many mosques, and I hear the Islam call to prayer as I enter the town. It is a nice stopover, and I navigate my way back to the bus station seamlessly in the lessened rain.

Berat

Posted on November 2 by krauss-ingtheworld

The coast disappears into the mountains. Rolling into the foothills of Berat is like a fantasy. The clouds cover the peak of mountains in the backdrop above a uniformly designed town. It is uniquely Ottoman, with distinct brown shutters and roof. There are several mosques scattered around the town, through which there is a main walkway along the river filled with restaurants. I have a crepe kebab (a crepe with chicken) and hike up the steep alleyways of the town.

I reach the fortress at the top, less a castle and more a fortified city. It is amazing walking along the ruins and watching the sunset over the town. The clouds burn red as I climb the remaining fortress walls, striving for a better view.

It is dark by the time I make it to the top. I return in the morning to wander the fortress and crumbling ruins of the mosque. The small city with its steep streets are full of elderly residents. They must stay fit.

Something I discover following the signs to cistern is an old Byzantine cistern. I walk down steps to what seems like a hut, but the steps drop off into a pool of water. The old chamber has a bit of light shining through the top. I definitely can imagine a sewer monster living in here.

I enjoy wandering through the old Christian quarter although it is heavily under construction. There is a great view of the old town under the fortress from here. I return as well to continue exploring the unique architecture and streets only to find much of it is under construction too! The mosque has beautiful murals and I even witness a call to prayer. It seems more people practice Islam here, as I pass by several people wearing hijabs. Most of the people have darker features as well.

There are some interesting streets where the stairs fold off into rock and narrow passageways that leave me feeling claustrophobic. Others have arches of vines and potted plants giving a nice vibe.

I enjoy wandering around this town very much!

Ioannina

Posted on September 28 by krauss-ingtheworld

On an impulse after departing the lovely mountains of Meteora and driving through the mountainous villages, I stay the afternoon in Ioannina.

Attracted by the lake with a mountain backdrop, I linger only so much as to walk around the circumference of the old fortress walls. I do some light photography of the waterfowl and monastic island in the lake. The monasteries there are the former refuge of the orthodox monks before they arrived at Meteora. It piques my interest, but I’m more impressed by the walls encircling the historic town.

I wander through the halls as I am transported back to the Byzantine empire—and Ottoman-era refurbishments that restored these walls and buildings. Notable buildings are the grand mosques, built over even older churches, and remaining structures including towers. A particularly notable one is called Its Kale!

I go in a mosque, and to my surprise there are Jewish artifacts from the historic communities dating back to the establishment of Ioannina. Jewish Greek life extends to the 3rd centry BCE, and their descendents have unique clothing and ketubahs, a Jewish marriage contract. Silver work, characteristic of the region, binds together the scroll of Esther. Inside the interior of the mosque there is beautiful islamic architecture and mother of pearl inlaid on walnut furniture.

The streets of old town are cobbled and filled with pastel houses and plazas. The old synagogue is still standing and in use. The newer area outside the walls is full of bars and lively restaurants and has a certain charm. The city lines the lake and has lots of green space and forests to compliment the development.

I am quite happy with my break in Ioannina, though I am careful to depart at sunset because I have a ferry to catch!

Thessaloniki

Posted on September 12 by krauss-ingtheworld

When I saw a $20 flight to Thessaloniki from Zagreb, I booked it impulsively, knowing I wanted to return to Greece. I was sad I didn’t finish traveling through Croatia, and I was coming to regret it, but immediately I was impressed with the Macedonian city.

The area has plenty of restaurants and bars to offer along the main promenade. There are Roman ruins scattered throughout this area alongside Ottoman structures and Byzantine era churches. A large white tower stands along the coast, remnants from its time as the second largest city of the Byzantine empire.

I have a delicious Greek groat mediterranean bowl for 2 euros before hiking up the hill. It is called the Acropolis, but the remains are of a Roman fortress that became a Byzantine wall to defend the city from Turkish invaders. The sunset view above the ocean is beautiful with the historic walls as a backdrop.

I wind carefully down through the old town at the foot of the castle, cobblestone hills and vines and other greenery lining the characteristic Greek houses. At the bottom, large villas and palaces make up the cityscape, some sporting Turkish decor.

There is a bustling marketplace and central plaza around Roman ruins that inspire a little window shopping. I return in the morning to the rotunda to see the early Christian murals along the ceiling on the inside and a museum about Christians that fled here in the early 19th century.

I also take advantage of the holiday to see the museum for free, with a beautiful overview of ancient Macedonia through the empire and Roman succession. There is ornate pottery, burial gold craftwork, and intact tools from everyday life.

Today is “Ohi” day, or “No” day, in commemoration of the day the Greeks stood against Nazi invaders during WWII. They ultimately lost, but they are proud that they resisted. Different branches of the military in their fun uniforms walk past me towards a parade that is gathering, with hundreds of people beginning to form a crowd. I quickly escape from the hullabaloo to collect my luggage and head for the train station for my next destination.

My train passes by Mount Olympus, mythic home of the Greek gods, surrounded by a swirling cloud.

Aqaba

Posted on March 13, 2023 by krauss-ingtheworld

Aqaba is the first Arab town I visit, outside of the old city of Jerusalem. We get an early start at 2AM and crossing over the border is seamless with a tour group. I opt to wander away from the group and instead explore the town on my own.

Mosques, markets and spices line the streets. Cheap shawarma is everywhere, though I dine at a recommended restaurant and order a Maqubah for lunch.

The Gulf of Aqaba has crystal clear water and offers views of Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia. However, the beach is a bit rocky. It’s still nice to dip my toes in as I meander around the fortress, an Ottoman structure built in the 15th century; it’s in the process of being restored.

There are plenty of modern marvels with arches, mosques, and parks decorating the city. I walk along the central park through the marketplace exploring the street murals along the walls. Swipe through below to see some of my favorites.

There are more ancient sites, including one of the earliest churches of the Roman empire and the ancient Islamic city of Ayla, built during the Umayyad dynasty, which I vaguelly recall from my world history course in high school.

So far, people are friendly and helpful in pointing me in the right direction, and I am not heckled by any means. There are a couple other tour groups around and Aqaba likely receives lots of local tourism because of its location along the Red Sea. It is a great introduction to Jordan and I look forward to the rest of the tour!