Iconic. Glorious. Majestic. Matterhorn is all of these things. The way it juts out so steep from the other surrounding mountains, it certainly deserves its place on the Toblerone candy bar.

The first thing I do once I greet it in the morning sun is rush for the first gondola up to a trail. There is a lake that reflects the Matterhorn, and I sure delight in taking photographs.

I continue along to another lake, a bit green, and another, blue and green depending on the light that is popular for swimming. I’m still a bit cold, so I just wash off my hands in the surprisingly warm water.

The walk is long and the view is only getting hampered by more hills, so I split off instead of returning to the trailhead to see a milky turquoise lake and another reflective lake, since now the wind has picked up.

I proceed to the next hike, planning to take the train at the next town over, but, afraid of the steep price, I hike up instead. It is very hard hiking uphill at altitude, and the clear skies and sun get surprisingly hot, even as I gain elevation and get a breeze. I take lots of breaks on the way up, and I almost give up when I see another train station. But after asking the price again, and after resting and snacking at the station shop, I recharge my batteries (literally, as my phone is almost dead) and continue up.

It is not as steep, but the altitude is getting to me, and I get a headache. I pass lots of burrows of marmots and reach a lake, which is supposed to be reflective if not for the wind. There is a lot of native alpine vegetation and even a little botanic garden, so I appreciate the distraction. I feel miserable until I see the glaciers over the hills and feel like the hills are alive. I regain strength to make it to the viewpoint, but a train station and a $20 ticket to the top motivate me. It takes 5 minutes but I needed it. Just walking to the viewpoint takes all that’s left of my energy.

I spend what feels like an hour admiring the glacier arm that stretches out and down the valley farther than the eye can see. It is the 3rd largest glacier in Europe and it seems like it. I’m impressed by this view, with other glaciers on the mountaintops and a gorgeous mountain backdrop. Of course Matterhorn is visible, but it isn’t the star here as the glacier shines. It would be amazing to hike below.

The sun is beginning to set, but I think I have just enough time to make it back to Zermatt. I decide to hike, as I feel better immediately going down as I breathe more oxygen in. I feel a new life return to me as I pass the lake again. Sheep are being herded by a shepherd telling what seems like mariachi screams. They run along in the setting sun as I continue down all the way I came.

I enter down into the shadow as the sun dips behind the mountain. I start to think maybe there isn’t enough time, so I quicken my pace down the dirt path. It branches off into the forest, and I notice how quiet it is. All of a sudden I spot three chamois, a type of goat-antelope.  They are skidding at first and head off down the path, but one lingers eating. Keeping a watchful eye on me, I carefully meander along the path until I get a clear shot. I am reinvigorated, if not by the scenery at the glacier, then by wildlife photography, and I finally feel this trip to Switzerland is worthwhile! 

A doe carefully eyeing me