Top of Europe

Leaving the city behind, the hills grow quickly into mountains of unique shapes. I am already happier to be in the alps, though it was nice to get a city fix for a few days. The lakes are a beautiful blue and are surrounded by steep cliffs. I want to stay when I arrive in the town of Interlaken, but I continue on up to a village in the mountains. The village is called Lauterbrunnen, and it is also the inspiration for Rivendell of Lord of the Rings. I feel very much in a Swiss village, not an elven one, surrounded by all the cute, painted log cabins and flower planters. The view along the valley is full of waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. I set up camp at the base of one of them for the price of a hostel dorm. I wash my clothes and walk down the valley following the crowd until I reach a river. 

The river flows milky white down from the glaciers, but is fed by waterfalls tumbling through a cavern. Sort of like La chapelle on Réunion, the strong water carves through the rock. It is very cool and damp in the caverns, a refuge from the valley heat, and it is cool to watch the pulses of water flow over the twisting caverns. 

I enjoy coming outside the caverns and seeing the waterfalls in the sunlight, with a better view of the caverns and even rainbows appearing in the spray. The view over the valley is gorgeous, and now I can even see up to the glacier. 

I set up camp and enjoy some traditional Swiss folk performances with large drums, orchestra, and yodeling. Lots of kids dance too. There is a march which giant kettle bells that is keeping me awake, so I stay and watch the performances. 

The mountains themselves are covered in glaciers. It is so exciting to finally be here in the Swiss alps after flying over and seeing the mountains from above. I always want to jump out the window and land amongst the alps, but now I can just hike.

Photo of Jungfraujoch national park from above

I go up the wrong cable car by accident, but I get fabulous views from the cute town of Murren of the opposing mountainside. I am glued to the window as the sun sparkles off the glaciers. I take advantage and walk down to Grimmelwald, another cute town, with a great view of the mountain. This is where James Bond was filmed, and the views of the opposing glacier must be even better than from here. I decide it’s better to hike next to the glacier than get a view of the opposing side.

Well, it is nice being closer to the glaciers. I never quite get the view or the photo I like on the way up in the cable car. I miss the stop I was supposed to get off at and continue up, but quickly get out and continue on foot when the conductor points out my mistake. Either she lets me get away with it or she doesn’t feel like causing a delay because I get off and she steps aside.

The walk up through the glaciers lacks a single finale moment. It is a different perspective at the foot of Jungfraujoch, the highest mountain in Europe, and nice being at the highest place you can hike to. However, I lack that accomplished feeling.

The view of the glaciers is actually better back towards the town, and even past it on a hike around that gives an overlook of the town of Grindelwald and the surrounding mountains. It’s majestic as the lighting now gives the glaciers it’s time to shine, but I continue walking away. I get great views from the “royal walk” along with lots of cattle and cow bells ringing. I see a lesser weasel, red and small, dart along a stream but I am too slow to get a photo.

I take the overpriced cable car down in the interest of time and because I’m too tired to walk back down. It’s a nice view of the glaciers in the town below called Wengen. It seems unremarkable besides the nice view of the glacier, so I continue on the very crowded train back to camp.

The clouds clear for sunset and suddenly the mountains look like they’re on fire, dyed red from sunlight. I am once again content.

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